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removing paint from guide bar or tip

bryanr2

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Hey thermodynamic paint engineers...

After a long 40 second cut with the clear coat on I can't touch the bar. And with the clear coat off I can hold on to it.

FLIR readings umm kinda back that up. Please explain!

or better yet, get up out of your computer warrior chair and go make a video of you proving otherwise!

In the name of science..... we need to see the video.images.jpeg
 

thomas1

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The bar is being heated by the friction of the chain and possibly absorbing heat from the bar mounting pad. Paint on one side of the bar is not going to make that side hotter. The paint doesn't generate heat.
 

KenJax Tree

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Just for *s-words and giggles i'd like to see how the temp varies with a thin cheap bar oil and a good tacky oil. Or the same oil but the oiler adjusted on low and high
 

Keith Gandy

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The bar is being heated by the friction of the chain and possibly absorbing heat from the bar mounting pad. Paint on one side of the bar is not going to make that side hotter. The paint doesn't generate heat.
But we had a man several post back that said a painted black radiator lets the paint absorb heat and passes on to the ambient air?
 

thomas1

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But we had a man several post back that said a painted black radiator lets the paint absorb heat and passes on to the ambient air?

It has to absorb the heat from the radiator itself. It's may transfer heat better, but it's not going to get magically hotter than the inside of the radiator.

If something is heated to 100° nothing is going to make it hotter except more heat energy and paint doesn't generate heat energy.

The heat source is inside the radiator, no matter how efficient the radiator is at dissipating heat the outside can't be hotter than the inside. It can't be hotter than the source generating the heat.
 
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Keith Gandy

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It has to absorb the heat from the radiator itself. It's may transfer heat better, but it's not going to get magically hotter.

If something is heated to 100° nothing is going to make it hotter except more heat energy and paint doesn't generate heat energy.
If his statement is true about radiators why wouldnt it apply to bars? Why arent all bars painted black? Paint is a conductor but powdercoat depending on makeup and thickness is a poorer conductor than a thin paint. If the black paint will absorb heat it would also on the bar and pass it on more quickly to ambient?
 

Keith Gandy

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Im still seeing a bare bar as cooling quicker, a thinly painted bar as GBs r next , and lastly a thick powder coated last
 

thomas1

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Redbull is claiming the bar gets cooler with the paint removed. He is claiming that no other variables are changed, that he has seen the same results "100's" of times.

If nothing else changes and there is no additional friction/heat going into the bar, the bar can't get hotter. Paint on the bar doesn't generate heat. That's not opinion, that's fact.
 

Keith Gandy

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I see what u r saying but I still say that the bare metal should be cooler being exposed to ambient air. If ones skin is cold they on a barrier to seperate skin to ambient
 

thomas1

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Im still seeing a bare bar as cooling quicker, a thinly painted bar as GBs r next , and lastly a thick powder coated last

Cooling is transferring energy from the hot side (the bar) to the cool side (the air).

Say the heat is coming directly off of the bar. The bar is the hottest point, correct? The bar can't magically get hotter on the painted side. There is no additional energy to make it hotter.
 

Keith Gandy

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Cooling is transferring energy from the hot side (the bar) to the cool side (the air).

Say the heat is coming directly off of the bar. The bar is the hottest point, correct? The bar can't magically get hotter on the painted side. There is no additional energy to make it hotter.
Yes and I cant explain why Redbulls test show the way they do but without putting a gun on it in the 1st place I still woulda said a bare bar will run cooler. Theres a reason Cannon bars r bare
 

KenJax Tree

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27af62e6f089d1171e89db02ddaf4e7f.jpg
 

Keith Gandy

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QUOTE: working on several different 'new' projects mostly aimed at the air-cooled V-twin market. Without going in to specifics, it seems to me that offering the most complete cost-effective package possible (finished product as opposed to semi-finished) will increase sales potential- but I don't want to offer options that will decrease longevity to my customer's engine life....so, powder-coated engine parts are effectively a non-starter
 
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Keith Gandy

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QUOTE: To Coat Or Not To Coat?

Almost any metal part can then be painted, or powdercoated, with a few caveats. In order to use powder, parts must be able to withstand the curing temperatures of powder. This usually means 350°-450°Ffor 15-30 minutes. This pretty much rules out plastic substrates and things that might warp like cylinder heads. Low cure powders are being developed for use on plastic substrates, but for right now, these are beyond the ability of most applicators.

Parts must also be able to withstand the additional coating thickness of powder. Powder does go on heavier than typical paint.

The question keeps coming up about doing cylinders and cylinder heads. Excercise great caution here. This can be a disaster. You want to dissipate heat, not retain heat by putting an insulator over it! Powdercoating can be a great thermal and electrical insulator.
 
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