Rebuilding and porting an 044

[Mastermind]

Hey Randy can u look a oiler and see if it's still good since u have it apart

No problem. It looks fine........but I'll know more after all the parts are washed.

Saws should be fat. Beef should be lean. Randy, do you have a certain recipe that you want to hit, or is every saw a constant evolution?

I stick close to a certain "recipe".........but I change it up now and then to see if I can improve it.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Show us the chip, so we can see/learn what's a no-go...

 

[cardsfan6]

Rome wasn't built in a day. And ur saws aren't either I like waiting in good product from u. Hey Randy is carb looking ok I hope .

 

[Mastermind]

Show us the chip, so we can see/learn what's a no-go...

I'll try to get a good picture for you......

Rome wasn't built in a day. And ur saws aren't either I like waiting in good product from u. Hey Randy is carb looking ok I hope .

Just cleaning parts right now........but I think it's ok.

 

[Basher]

Horray 044, my favorite saw to build and port, been doing them for a long time.

 

[Mastermind]

Show us the chip, so we can see/learn what's a no-go...

Here you go sir......

Where this damage is makes it unusable on a customer's saw. It could get worse, or damage the rings over time. On my own saw......or one for my logging friends to beat the hell out of, I'd run it with a little clean up.

 

[Frank bierce]

Here you go sir......

Where this damage is makes it unusable on a customer's saw. It could get worse, or damage the rings over time. On my own saw......or one for my logging friends to beat the hell out of, I'd run it with a little clean up.

View attachment 81964 View attachment 81965

Oh bummer...great build thread!! Will definitely be watching and learning.

 

[Mattyo]

Randy, I just did a 044 china saw. ... biggest issue I had was positioning the pto bearing. I put it up against the oiler, and centered the crank in the case... but the clutch/drum washer then didn't fit.... the crank was...uh...short by .020" or so. I assume the PTO bearing just doesn't need to be fully up against the oiler, and then because that was so far ...out... the bushing that rides the bearing was too far out, not allowing the clutch to seat fully etc etc.

So, on these saws, how do you position the bearing correctly? flush with the inside of the case?

 

[Mattyo]

and these pix sure look like a ring positioning pin came out... and bounced around... yikes

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Here you go sir......

Where this damage is makes it unusable on a customer's saw. It could get worse, or damage the rings over time. On my own saw......or one for my logging friends to beat the hell out of, I'd run it with a little clean up.

View attachment 81964 View attachment 81965

Thansk ( hear ) 2 learn !

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Randy, I just did a 044 china saw. ... biggest issue I had was positioning the pto bearing. I put it up against the oiler, and centered the crank in the case... but the clutch/drum washer then didn't fit.... the crank was...uh...short by .020" or so. I assume the PTO bearing just doesn't need to be fully up against the oiler, and then because that was so far ...out... the bushing that rides the bearing was too far out, not allowing the clutch to seat fully etc etc.

So, on these saws, how do you position the bearing correctly? flush with the inside of the case?

For OEM 1128s, I always use the oiler tightly screwed in as a positive stop. All other crank adjustments should be made with the oiler in position. (ie-- when centering crank).

Did you use your tools to seat the bearing?

Eta- "center" may not truly be center for AM products...(or oe, for that matter). The crank may need to be closer/farther to one side of case...

 

[dall]

Randy, I just did a 044 china saw. ... biggest issue I had was positioning the pto bearing. I put it up against the oiler, and centered the crank in the case... but the clutch/drum washer then didn't fit.... the crank was...uh...short by .020" or so. I assume the PTO bearing just doesn't need to be fully up against the oiler, and then because that was so far ...out... the bushing that rides the bearing was too far out, not allowing the clutch to seat fully etc etc.

So, on these saws, how do you position the bearing correctly? flush with the inside of the case?

some you can't do that with because some bearings have a step on the outside edge and you will set the bearing too far outside

 

[Mattyo]

For OEM 1128s, I always use the oiler tightly screwed in as a positive stop. All other crank adjustments should be made with the oiler in position. (ie-- when centering crank).

Did you use your tools to seat the bearing?

Eta- "center" may not truly be center for AM products...(or oe, for that matter). The crank may need to be closer/farther to one side of case...

yes, but where is the reference point then?

sorry, no thread jack, was just curious if there was a specific reference. like...up against the oiler....



it seems like even though I put the bearing up against the oiler, that it was too far to the PTO side, which pushed everything else out, making the crank effectively short. ... so then either the thing to do is *NOT* center the crank in the cases, and just seat it against the PTO bearing as far as it goes, or reference the PTO bearing against flush against the inner part of the case...which then gives piles of room between it and the oiler.

just seems to fudgy for me...

btw, the 660 was just fine with the PTO bearing against the oiler ...and centering the crank in the bosses. figured it'd work for the 440, it didn't.
....my tools don't seat the bearing... they pull the crank through the bearing to wherever it stops... in this case, there was a shim to stop the crank lobe against the boss

 

[Lone Wolf]

and these pix sure look like a ring positioning pin came out... and bounced around... yikes

Have fun with that China saw

 

[jacob j.]

Here you go sir......

Where this damage is makes it unusable on a customer's saw. It could get worse, or damage the rings over time. On my own saw......or one for my logging friends to beat the hell out of, I'd run it with a little clean up.

Do you need a jug?

 

[Mastermind]

Do you need a jug?

Sir No Sir.

I have a nice one here already to go.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Up against the oiler @Mattyo

 

[Mattyo]

Up against the oiler @Mattyo

Thanks for the response.. ...thats what I did. apparently then centering the crank between the bosses is a bad thing... better to just pull it to the PTO side and up against the bearing. ...or maybe make a shim thats only .010"

Btw, figured out my dads 350. ...I'll respond in your other thread

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Yes, centering the crank perfectly (with a shim) may not be correct here. Are all oem crank lobes exactly centered for all models?
Like AStihl, I get the bearing against the pump then smack the crank til it's close to center and spinning freely (I use case bolts so there is some side load binding).
Stihl manuals say against the pump for indexing.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

yes, but where is the reference point then?

sorry, no thread jack, was just curious if there was a specific reference. like...up against the oiler....



it seems like even though I put the bearing up against the oiler, that it was too far to the PTO side, which pushed everything else out, making the crank effectively short. ... so then either the thing to do is *NOT* center the crank in the cases, and just seat it against the PTO bearing as far as it goes, or reference the PTO bearing against flush against the inner part of the case...which then gives piles of room between it and the oiler.

just seems to fudgy for me...

btw, the 660 was just fine with the PTO bearing against the oiler ...and centering the crank in the bosses. figured it'd work for the 440, it didn't.
....my tools don't seat the bearing... they pull the crank through the bearing to wherever it stops... in this case, there was a shim to stop the crank lobe against the boss

Didn't you have a bearing tool as well? How are you putting your bearings in these days?