Rail Wear On Cannon Bar

[popopboat]

Wide bar, small sprocket and maybe a bit of heat-treatment fail?

Happened to me too, reduced wear with an 8 pin sprocket.

 

[huskyboy]

OP is it the standard oiler or the high output west coast one?

 

[huskyboy]

Wide bar, small sprocket and maybe a bit of heat-treatment fail?

Happened to me too, reduced wear with an 8 pin sprocket.

8 pin increases bar wear over a 7 pin. More chainspeed. At least in my experiences.

 

[popopboat]

8 pin increases bar wear over a 7 pin. More chainspeed. At least in my experiences.

But it reduces the angle of pulling, therefore reduces force that "squeezes" chain against the bar more force = more friction


A bit overexeggerated sketch but shows what i mean.

 

[huskyboy]

But it reduces the angle of pulling, therefore reduces force that "squeezes" chain against the bar more force = more friction
View attachment 280991

A bit overexeggerated sketch but shows what i mean.

Yes, but that’s offset by the increased chainspeed causing more wear on the rest of the bar and the tip. By how much exactly? I don’t know. I just go by how long my bars are lasting logging. I noticed over time my bars wear less with a 7 pin instead of using a 8 pin.

 

[toolmaker]

OP is it the standard oiler or the high output west coast one?

It's the OEM oiler unless Kevin changed it out when he massaged the powerhead.
I doubt that he did or he would have mentioned it

 

[popopboat]

Yes, but that’s offset by the increased chainspeed causing more wear on the rest of the bar and the tip. By how much exactly? I don’t know. I just go by how long my bars are lasting logging. I noticed over time my bars wear less with a 7 pin instead of using a 8 pin.

Surely does, chain speed increases by 14%,
but just 10° can make a "squeezing" force doubled.

Anyway, just remove burr and youre good to go, concentrated wear will be reduced after a while.

 

[huskyboy]

It's the OEM oiler unless Kevin changed it out when he massaged the powerhead.
I doubt that he did or he would have mentioned it

Does the chain seem dry after cutting with it? In my experiences the two 460’s, one 461 and 046 I had here left something to be desired with the stock standard oiler. They put oil out yes... but are a little stingy with over a 25” bar depending on the wood your cutting. Bolting on the factory HO oiler or modifying the stock oiler is a good solution.

 

[Definitive Dave]

Pics

Do you mind if I share your pics with Cannon?
Looks like normal bar wear that just needs a quick touch of the Pferd to me.
Let's get the real expert to weigh in if that's alright with you.
Dave

 

[huskihl]

https://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-044-oiler-mod.9271/

 

[toolmaker]

Do you mind if I share your pics with Cannon?
Looks like normal bar wear that just needs a quick touch of the Pferd to me.
Let's get the real expert to weigh in if that's alright with you.
Dave

That's fine, please share
I e-mailed the pics to Cannon yesterday and they did not respond

 

[Stump Shot]

It's a nicely worked-over MS460 by Kevin.
I have not had the saw (in ported form) for even a year and the bar was brand new when the saw came back.
Bought the bar from a forum member.
Oil holes are open.
I flip the bar with every sharpening.
I run only Stihl bar/chain oil.
Before I start cutting, and every so often while cutting. I hold the saw tip near something and look for oil to be slinging while revving.
Have used nothing but Oregon LPX on it.

Now that you have the XS's in your saw, you may need a different B&C oil that's thicker/tackier to make it around the front sprocket better, seeing you have wear just on your heel, the last place on the bar to get oiled.

 

[toolmaker]

https://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-044-oiler-mod.9271/

Thanks for the info Kevin. Oiler mod done

 

[Lightning Performance]

8 pin increases bar wear over a 7 pin. More chainspeed. At least in my experiences.

Also slows down the oil pump vs a seven pin imo.

 

[Ketchup]

Now that you have the XS's in your saw, you may need a different B&C oil that's thicker/tackier to make it around the front sprocket better, seeing you have wear just on your heel, the last place on the bar to get oiled.

Hate to turn this into an oil thread... but I hate sticky bar oil. It holds more particulate, and bakes onto the saw in a nasty way. I feel it travels a shorter distance too and creates more friction.

We run Stihl BioPlus. It’s quite runny, but makes it all the way back to the clutch cover even with a 42” (On a 395). It’s ridiculously expensive, but it’s excellent. We justify the cost because we often spill it on expensive patios and driveways and it disappears with a little degreaser. You can buy a lot of BioPlus for the cost of a new patio.

@toolmaker, what oil are you running?

 

[toolmaker]

Hate to turn this into an oil thread... but I hate sticky bar oil. It holds more particulate, and bakes onto the saw in a nasty way. I feel it travels a shorter distance too and creates more friction.

We run Stihl BioPlus. It’s quite runny, but makes it all the way back to the clutch cover even with a 42” (On a 395). It’s ridiculously expensive, but it’s excellent. We justify the cost because we often spill it on expensive patios and driveways and it disappears with a little degreaser. You can buy a lot of BioPlus for the cost of a new patio.

@toolmaker, what oil are you running?

This saw has seen nothing but Schteeel bar oil from brand new.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I found this same wear to less of a degree on the tail of my 60" CSB only on the side pulling the chain. I do not run an auxiliary oil feed on my set up most times. I did flip it twice during the first six tanks of fuel run with it.
It appears they need to air harden when running out of oil and that requires a bit of wear. After the run-in the wear marks have not moved. Mine are less than yours but still there and I have not had to touch up the bar yet. My only wear spot was on the heel. Almost always running Oregon chain in 404 on an 084 7 pin. It has less tail wear I'm sure running the 8 pin.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Hate to turn this into an oil thread... but I hate sticky bar oil. It holds more particulate, and bakes onto the saw in a nasty way. I feel it travels a shorter distance too and creates more friction.

We run Stihl BioPlus. It’s quite runny, but makes it all the way back to the clutch cover even with a 42” (On a 395). It’s ridiculously expensive, but it’s excellent. We justify the cost because we often spill it on expensive patios and driveways and it disappears with a little degreaser. You can buy a lot of BioPlus for the cost of a new patio.

@toolmaker, what oil are you running?

Good point.

My big saw throws hot EVOo everywhere on food grade wood cuts.

 

[Stump Shot]

Hate to turn this into an oil thread... but I hate sticky bar oil. It holds more particulate, and bakes onto the saw in a nasty way. I feel it travels a shorter distance too and creates more friction.

We run Stihl BioPlus. It’s quite runny, but makes it all the way back to the clutch cover even with a 42” (On a 395). It’s ridiculously expensive, but it’s excellent. We justify the cost because we often spill it on expensive patios and driveways and it disappears with a little degreaser. You can buy a lot of BioPlus for the cost of a new patio.

@toolmaker, what oil are you running?

I see, you might just have to factor bar wear into that equation as well possibly if the oiler mod doesn't help.
There aren't very many guys left out there with a bar shop that can regrind your bar back to specs for you, but it might be something worth searching out for yourself if the wear continues.