Poor mans porting tools ... vid...

[jmssaws]

One thing that is cheap and very good is a grizzly flex shaft.
I've had one over 5 years and never have done anything to it.
I have a couple foredome sr that require brushes regularly and I constantly break shafts but the grizzly keeps on plugging along.
It's loud but for 99$ you can't beat it.

 

[jmssaws]

It's too bad there isn't a friction grip, I actually prefer the contra angle vs. the CC right angle. It's much easier to control chatter since the reaction force is no longer pure torsion in your hand.

I use heat shrink on all my hand peices and it works fantastic.

 

[srcarr52]

I use heat shrink on all my hand peices and it works fantastic.

I have heat shrink on them, it's better but it still sucks to hold for more than a few minutes.

I've never had to put brushes in either one of my SR's and the only time I've messed up a cable was my fault. Stick a 1/2" burr and somethings got to give.

I do wish the cable was more stiff, I find they wind up and shake too much when using a cut-off wheel.

 

[jmssaws]

I have heat shrink on them, it's better but it still sucks to hold for more than a few minutes.

I've never had to put brushes in either one of my SR's and the only time I've messed up a cable was my fault. Stick a 1/2" burr and somethings got to give.

I do wish the cable was more stiff, I find they wind up and shake too much when using a cut-off wheel.

I break shafts on mufflers and it's always my fault.
The foredome brushes last way longer than the cheap ones but even with them I use a set a year or so.
Seems the older the motors get the more they eat brushes.
Rotor is getting ruff I'm sure

 

[jmssaws]

The main thing that helped my hands is a pair of thick insulated gloves,the thicker the better.

 

[srcarr52]

I managed to use a shaft till I wore through the drive tang. I was pretty proud of myself for not breaking it before then.

I find that when the brushes start to run rough and make noise if I run the motor backwards full throttle for a bit they quite down and stop sparking as much. It actually helps their life span.

I wish the RA's had a slipper clutch in them for when you loose control. I've had the cable pretty wound up with a burr caught in a transfer port with the CC 128MC. I thought for sure I broke it, but it was fine. The dental latch heads don't take that abuse, I've stripped the drive tangs, broke gear teeth and broke a gear off the shaft. But those are only $15 a head. I was going to start producing the adapters but the lack of decent burrs in that size shaft and how often I was breaking the heads I decided it wasn't worth the hassle having to support them.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I managed to use a shaft till I wore through the drive tang. I was pretty proud of myself for not breaking it before then.

I find that when the brushes start to run rough and make noise if I run the motor backwards full throttle for a bit they quite down and stop sparking as much. It actually helps their life span.

I wish the RA's had a slipper clutch in them for when you loose control. I've had the cable pretty wound up with a burr caught in a transfer port with the CC 128MC. I thought for sure I broke it, but it was fine. The dental latch heads don't take that abuse, I've stripped the drive tangs, broke gear teeth and broke a gear off the shaft. But those are only $15 a head. I was going to start producing the adapters but the lack of decent burrs in that size shaft and how often I was breaking the heads I decided it wasn't worth the hassle having to support them.

Where do you get the replacement heads for $15 Shawn?


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[jmssaws]

When I break one I can usually keep fixing it until it's to short or the drive tang is gone.

 

[srcarr52]

Where do you get the replacement heads for $15 Shawn?
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These are replacement heads for the adapter I made for NSK style dental latch heads, not for the CC 182MC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Slow...874290?hash=item20dffd5232:g:PjsAAMXQh5JRleyz

 

[Mattyo]

I'm kinda wondering if it would be of some benefit to get a reduction head. I don't need to spin the burrs fast. The marathon motor is 30k rpm... with a 20:1 reduction head max would be 1500 at the burr...which is probably fine for port work. and the torque would be great Just need to mod all the 2.35mm shanks to fit in the latch system

 

[jmssaws]

These are replacement heads for the adapter I made for NSK style dental latch heads, not for the CC 182MC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Slow...874290?hash=item20dffd5232:g:PjsAAMXQh5JRleyz

Where can I get a master carver hand peice?

 

[jmssaws]

I'm kinda wondering if it would be of some benefit to get a reduction head. I don't need to spin the burrs fast. The marathon motor is 30k rpm... with a 20:1 reduction head max would be 1500 at the burr...which is probably fine for port work. and the torque would be great Just need to mod all the 2.35mm shanks to fit in the latch system

I don't think you would like 1500 rpm.
I think a foredome sr is 18k.
In a ra I like it wfo and a single cut burr is smother and won't kick.
A double cut kicks

 

[Mattyo]

I've tried the single cut... I don't like it. but thats just me

 

[srcarr52]

Where can I get a master carver hand peice?

Wood Carver Supply is the best place. Which handpiece do you want? I know where to get ones like their steath handpiece for much cheaper.

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Pro-FlexTM-Shaft-Tools/products/143/

 

[jmssaws]

Wood Carver Supply is the best place. Which handpiece do you want? I know where to get ones like their steath handpiece for much cheaper.

http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Pro-FlexTM-Shaft-Tools/products/143/

I like the chuck style hand peice

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Here is a great set up from Harbor freight for $50. All you may need to do is take the foot pedal apart to fine tune it because some of them are a little jumpy out of the box. The foredom hand pieces and foot pedals are interchangeable with it. I have hundreds of hours on mine and all I've had to do to it is the mentioned initial tuning of the foot pedal and replace a set of brushes in the motor which were included extra in the box.
http://m.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

 

[paragonbuilder]

These are replacement heads for the adapter I made for NSK style dental latch heads, not for the CC 182MC.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Slow...874290?hash=item20dffd5232:g:PjsAAMXQh5JRleyz

Can those be used on the foredom 55?



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[srcarr52]

I've tried the single cut... I don't like it. but thats just me

I only use single cuts unless I'm cutting steel or heavy cylinder plating. Fine single cut when using the RA or when I want a really nice finish, Aluma-Hog single cut for everything else.

I like the chuck style hand peice

That is their "Stealth" handpiece and I've found something similar that is much cheaper.

 

[srcarr52]

Can those be used on the foredom 55?

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It's a similar design to the 55 but nothing will fit on one. These are much tougher than a 55, I broke three of those in a hurry, now I have a lot of 55 parts.

 

[jmssaws]

I only use single cuts unless I'm cutting steel or heavy cylinder plating. Fine single cut when using the RA or when I want a really nice finish, Aluma-Hog single cut for everything else.



That is their "Stealth" handpiece and I've found something similar that is much cheaper.

I basically only use a alumihog
Straight or ra