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Partner Chain Saw Thread

old_sir_henry

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Hello,

this is one for the EMAB-Partner experts.

I have a Partner 385 AV on my bench which puzzles me.
The P385 is as we all know, derived from the Poulan Micro 25 with a few
differences, e.g. different piston pin eye, different carb but basicly it still
is very much a Poulan micro 25.
Chain lubrication on the micro 25 works by building up overpressure inside the oil tank
forcing the chain oil being pressed through the "oil pump" into the bar mouunt's notch.
Because of this working priciple the oil tank doesn't have a vent.
All of my micro 25 based saws (even another EMAB-Partner) are built alike.

Not the current one:

p_385_av_oiltank_vent_1.jpg

On the upper side of the oil tank (normally covered by the air filter housing) there is a tiny bore and in it
a bent steel wire. The bore doesn't look like being applied belated and the bending of the wire looks machine done.

p_385_av_oiltank_vent_2.jpg

You can pull the wire about 7 mm outward but not further so there must be a bending at the inside end of it too.
The wire can freely be rotated 360°. It just looks like a factory installed oil tank vent!
But how is the lubrication supposed to work when no no overpressure can build up inside the oil tank?

Just for completeness: The clutch side of the saw looks absolutely normal: Check valve (tested working) in place and the
"oil pump" on the bottom below the bar tensioner.

p_385_av_oil_pump.jpg

Any clues anyone?
 

fossil

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The micros I have have a tiny hole just behind the oil discharge port with a wire it it. Some guys have plugged them and I suspect they over oil. The vent hole also keeps the saw from oiling for some time after it's shut off.

I haven't seen one like yours with the vent up top but if there's no vent behind the discharge hole, it makes sense.
 

Al Smith

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Has anyone tried to attach the 25 "Stihl guides to the Partner 7000+? Are the Stihl pins suitable for the Partner?
I have no idea what"pins " are but assume it might be the bar studs .If that's so you have choices .You could find an adapter or make your own which are just thick washers fitting over the stud to make it fit the Stihl bar slot .You most likely will have to modify the bar plates . You may have to modify the bar a bit too so it oils and fits the adjuster .The big Homelite in my avatar pic usually runs a 36" Stihl bar .
 

Partner

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I meant if Stihl guide pins could be screwed to the Partner 7000+

Sorry Google Translate ;-)
 
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fossil

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Thanks, I never noticed that one. Have to check my other micros.
So the lubrication works even though part of the pressure inside the oil-tank
does vanish thru the vent?

I expect it does over a short time. They do oil pretty heavily when working correctly and if the pin is gone it won't oil. I would guess that's it's either to slow the oil flow down or to bleed off pressure so it doesn't oil after you shut it off or both.
 

Al Smith

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On the bar studs I suppose you could replace them assuming the Partner is M8 by 1.25 threads . .I've never tried it though because by removing those adaptors I spoke about on the Homelite it's just a simple matter of removing them . The one and only Partner I have is a p-100 McCulloch SP 1000 version .With the McCulloch bar plates a 10 series McCulloch bar will fit .With a Husqvarna 2100 bar plates ,Husqvarna bars will fit . As soon as I get to it I'll have two operating models of that saw with both types of bar plates and plenty of McCulloch bars and several Husqvarna bars .I've got plenty of Stihl mount bars too but in this application see no reason to adapt them .
 

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Adapters are not available with us and the Stihl 25 "guide bar plus chain has the same price as the Husqvarna 24" guide bar without chain, so buying a Stihl kit is better
 

nbbt

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I added what I believe to be a Partner 500 to my collection, part of the front cover is cut off and part of the 5 in 500 is cut off.
However it does start fairly easy and seems to run well in the cut..

edited to say it is a 500. 7/18
 
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Hi folks. I am a nube here, so please be gentle if this is not the right place. I have had a Partner R16 for the last 35 odd years. I left it in bits on the shelf about 25 years ago, due to non functioning oil pump. I decided to pull all the bits out of the box a couple of weeks ago and "unstuck" the pump. All else looks good, but at disassembly I damaged the crank case gasket. I was in Stockholm 21 years ago and tried there, but no luck. Everything else looks in really good condition. That in mind, I am looking for assistance in sourcing a gasket set and lucked upon this site. I am in Australia. Thanks.
 

CMarsh

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Gaskets are not a problem to make .Get on You Tube and take a tutorial .I've done for years from carb gaskets to gaskets for a D4 Caterpillar .
Hi Al. Thanks for the quick reply. Yes I know and have done the same thing myself, to an extent. I have a very accurate layout for the bolts and dowels. I have a scan-n-cut, so an accurate cut is not an issue. Would I be correct in assuming that the only real accurate fitting/sizing would be the circular boss around the crank bearing itself?
 

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I have a fairly complete parts lists for a number of Partner chainsaws and concrete saws but can't say I've had much experience with them ,I'm in the process of restoring two P100 chainsaws and have found often the gaskets ,seals bearing are used by the concrete saws if you can figure out what model they relate to .An example being the piston pin bearing which I could not find under parts listed for chainsaws but by using the part number found them under concrete saws .If I have a parts list for the saw in question and can find the part number I'll post it on this thread
 

Al Smith

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Update long over due .The first of two P100/Mac 1000 .The cylinder on this one which was stuck is nearly perfect much to my surprise .The rings were so rusted I had to use a torch then drill them off which is an old trick I'd just never done so on this small of a piston.It took me about 3 hours just to save the piston .It's sitting on top of a complete lower end I found .New seals are in route .Just for reference they are cr 5805 fw side and cr 8552 or 8550 clutch side I used the later because the viton used is rated for a higher temperature .
dscn0071-jpg.46917
 

Al Smith

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Here is that same saw or part of it
 

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Al Smith

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I might say the crankcase of the stuck one will be used to restore the one I have running with just shifting the good parts .I've never split the cases on these so it will be a learning experience .That one will be retained as a Mac 1000.BTW I have the factory dealers book that takes you step by step how to peal one down to the bones .
 

Al Smith

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I'm in a little bit of a pickle here .They used two different coils .A self contained and a thyristor triggered .Two different mounting pads too .I've managed to misplace the tyrister coil which I'll eventually find and I've ordered anther mounting bracket for the other kind in case I have to go that route .
Now what fits it ? You can't find the Partner coil .Can't seem to cross reference it with Husqvarna .The self contain unit is a double pole type used on many saws with the north pole on the leading edge of the flywheel rotation .None of any of my coils will bolt up .Stihl ,Poulan etc .I'm wondering if a 372 Huskey coil might get it .I don't want a rev limiting coil from a concrete saw for certain .Those you can find .
 
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