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Old school chain breaker

rogue60

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Old school sucks lol
Stuffing around with some baby chain I thought I'd try my dad's old chain breakers I've never used them before.
They are all he ever used as a cutter years ago he would have a roll of chain in his ute and just make up a chain in the bush when needed it would only take him a few minutes to make a chain I should have paid more attention of how he was so fast at it.
I don't have the right punch set there is two. One breaks the link and the other rounds the new rivet over.
I'll call in to see him and see if he still has the punches with the wright
punches I think it will be easy to do.
20200507_210743.jpg

He got the one on the left and the one in middle a long time ago I'd say late 70's early 80's when he was working as a cutter running 090's logging big old Aussie hardwoods for the mills back then.
I'm not sure he might have gotten the middle one custom made I'll ask him when I see him.
20200507_214421.jpg
 

rogue60

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I use a Dremel to grind some of the head off before breaking. It comes apart much easier. If you are careful you can save the tie strap without bending it.
Yeah after a few goes at it on this baby chain I got the grinder out lol
My dad used to punch 404 out easy no grinding I'll have to ask him what the trick is
only punches I've seen for em on ebay so far are Chinese made can only emagine how rubbish that steel is.
 

CR888

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Interesting how good the edges are on the chain anvils. The ones you buy today are like cheese and get scarred out of shape in no time. I went without a breaker/spinner setup for years. I've still got many dozens of chains in use joined together by reused presets & tie straps. Gimme a hammer punch & file & I'll adjust any saw chain...but I now have decent breaker and spinner which is nice. But also I can fk-up a chain just as easy with the best of tools. I use my chain grinder to take a bit off the rivets prior to punching, makes it a bunch easier.
 

CR888

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Making loops up in the field off the ute with no file just hammer, punch & anvil I respect! That takes some skill.
 

rogue60

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Interesting how good the edges are on the chain anvils. The ones you buy today are like cheese and get scarred out of shape in no time. I went without a breaker/spinner setup for years. I've still got many dozens of chains in use joined together by reused presets & tie straps. Gimme a hammer punch & file & I'll adjust any saw chain...but I now have decent breaker and spinner which is nice. But also I can fk-up a chain just as easy with the best of tools. I use my chain grinder to take a bit off the rivets prior to punching, makes it a bunch easier.
He used to reuse the presets and tie straps as well think I'll stick to new I won't use it enough to get good at it.
I've only ever use a breaker and spinner bolted to a bench so fast and easy.
Although I did try this thing years ago didn't use it much found it slow and the pin started to bend using it on 404 chain so I threw it in the scrap only just got it out to see if it would still work and do this little chain but pins to big and it needs oil and freeing up is all seized up.
20200507_222537.jpg
 

rogue60

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Wow I don't remember paying that much for it what a rip off I should clean it up and stick it on ebay for a 3rd of the cost of a new one lol
20200508_003007.jpg
 

Philbert

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I tried an inexpensive version of a 'pocket chain breaker' and did not have a good impression with it. But, I think that the size of the punch is critical for the rivets being driven out. Really should try it again with other pitch chains. It was a standard method for many, many chainsaw users for many years.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pocket-Bre...joAAOSwA3dYRITF:sc:USPSFirstClass!55105!US!-1

I was also enthusiastic about the Granberg Break-N-Mend: about $50 here. Got a used one, and found that I needed to replace some small parts (punch, etc.), which I got from Bailey's to make it work right. Also got a deal on a new one later on. Found that I could use it to break chain, and get a satisfactory spin with new pre-sets, but not real happy with re-using rivets as they suggest. *Has to be used incrementally. See attached instructions.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-break-n-mend-can-it-work.115165/

https://granberg.com/product/g605c-break-n-mendbreaks-rivets-chain/?v=7516fd43adaa

Either one of these tools I could use in the field if I had to, but no where near as nice as using a conventional spinner / breaker set, IMO.

Philbert
 

Attachments

  • Break N Mend Instructions.pdf
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legdelimber

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A good stump helps with the pocket anvil breaker kit.
Or if using it on a bench, always put it over a leg.
Needs to be on top of a solid support or else you get the same effect as the trick of trying to drive a nail into the middle of that board at the carnival.
When using one of these kits, I always preferred the smallest hammer that would do the job with a sharp swing.
Smarts a right bit if ya miss the punch.
the arthritis takes a few years to wake up though.
 

MolluskMania

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Making loops up in the field off the ute with no file just hammer, punch & anvil I respect! That takes some skill.
Absolutely agree.

OP: Might not hurt to practice on some junk chain with those tools so if the need arises, one could be make (temporary) field repairs.
 

Mastermind

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I tried an inexpensive version of a 'pocket chain breaker' and did not have a good impression with it. But, I think that the size of the punch is critical for the rivets being driven out. Really should try it again with other pitch chains. It was a standard method for many, many chainsaw users for many years.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pocket-Bre...joAAOSwA3dYRITF:sc:USPSFirstClass!55105!US!-1

I was also enthusiastic about the Granberg Break-N-Mend: about $50 here. Got a used one, and found that I needed to replace some small parts (punch, etc.), which I got from Bailey's to make it work right. Also got a deal on a new one later on. Found that I could use it to break chain, and get a satisfactory spin with new pre-sets, but not real happy with re-using rivets as they suggest. *Has to be used incrementally. See attached instructions.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-break-n-mend-can-it-work.115165/

https://granberg.com/product/g605c-break-n-mendbreaks-rivets-chain/?v=7516fd43adaa

Either one of these tools I could use in the field if I had to, but no where near as nice as using a conventional spinner / breaker set, IMO.

Philbert

Interesting stuff on these different chain tools. You gotta respect the men who were able to get by without the cream of the crop type of stuff.

It's nice being allowed to post links to other related forums huh?

I've not spent any time on ArboristSite in awhile, is the name of this forum still censored over there?
 

Philbert

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I've not spent any time on ArboristSite in awhile, is the name of this forum still censored over there?
I believe that it is. But 'O*P*E' is not!

Also not able to refer folks to things sold at Dick's Sporting Goods.

Philbert
 

Lightning Performance

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My old school Oregon bench top cast steel breaker punch is a bear. The newer aluminum base Oregon is not but does ok. The newer and replacement anvils are junk. They shatter with easy if side-loaded in the least. Guy gave me a tip to quickly fix that.

The old breaker jigs are so much better than the new ones here.
Never owned any if this stuff till about six years ago. We used a file and just some small drift pins like you can't buy now days. Peen the rivet and hit it with a file if it sticks up. Continued pounding locks up the link. Never had a bench or chain jig before... just chain like your dad. The spinner is nice. We had just a steel block with a slot for 3/8" chain to fit in... all we had in the eighties. Low budget or no budget. We sold firewood. The time in between I just bought loops.
 

MolluskMania

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Re: Re-peening pins

Not that a guy wants to find out, but I wonder how often a chain would fail if you re-peen a used chain link rather than using a new preset? It seems as though there’s plenty of material left over to create a good peen if you are careful.
 
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Mastermind

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Re: Re-peening pins

Not that a guy wants to find out, but I wonder how often a chain would fail if you re-peen a used chain link rather than using a new preset? It seems as though there’s plenty of material left over to create a good peen if you are careful.

I've done it many times. No problem.
 

MolluskMania

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I had one guy do a repair in his shop and insisted I bring it back to put in a new preset later. Maybe he was just extra cautious.
 

CR888

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No shop, chain maker or saw chain manual would ever advise the re-use of chain components for fair reason & liability but...it can be done successfully.
 

Philbert

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Being 'frugal', I try to re-use parts if I can. If I punch out rivets carefully, I can often salvage and reuse the tie straps. Sometimes that means pressing a little bit on each rivet, back-and--forth, instead of driving right through, which tends to bend smaller pitch components. But punching out rivets with a chain breaker removes a small ring of metal, just as grinding part of the head does. There is less rivet left to work with, even if it can be somewhat re-formed.
Used Presets.jpg

There is also, always, a question of judgement, as some of the photos in my A.S. 'Chain Challenge' thread illustrate, which cautions me about words like 'never' or 'always'!

Screen shot 2017-12-17 at 6.58.42 PM.png

Screen shot 2017-12-17 at 6.58.57 PM.png

Pop Rivet Chain.jpg

Philbert
 
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