Next up, round 2-288xp rebuild

[Nighthunter]

Imho never hone a cylinder

 

[Mkinslow]

No honing! Get a scotch bright ball and use that or if it was me I'd put a new ring on the original piston and RUN IT...

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[XP_Slinger]

I would replace the piston and run that cylinder after a cleaning with scotchbrite or sand paper. Some cylinders are marked “A” or “B”, this denotes the bore size and the corresponding piston that should be used. Make sure you get the correct piston for your cylinder. An “A” piston is slightly smaller than a “B”, so you can see where problems could arise, especially with a cylinder with some miles on it like yours.

I really like that flywheel knocker you made, much betterer than my drift method.

 

[huskyboy]

I would replace the piston and run that cylinder after a cleaning with scotchbrite or sand paper. Some cylinders are marked “A” or “B”, this denotes the bore size and the corresponding piston that should be used. Make sure you get the correct piston for your cylinder. An “A” piston is slightly smaller than a “B”, so you can see where problems could arise, especially with a cylinder with some miles on it like yours.

I really like that flywheel knocker you made, much betterer than my drift method.

A is ok in a B bore/B is ok in a A bore. You probably wouldn’t want to put a C piston in a A bore.

 

[p61 western]

I would clean up the cylinder a little bit and get a meteor piston. Nice score on the saw those mahle decomp cylinders are getting had to find.

 

[roadster27]

Well I will scotchbrite and ordering a piston for this cylinder. I'm pretty sure it's stamped "A" but I will have to check tonight.
Does anyone know if meteor has a notation for "a or b" when ordering?
Also I will probably still order a new p/c kit for this saw. Do you guys know if HL supply's oem kit is mahle?

 

[BonScott46]

Well I will scotchbrite and ordering a piston for this cylinder. I'm pretty sure it's stamped "A" but I will have to check tonight.
Does anyone know if meteor has a notation for "a or b" when ordering?
Also I will probably still order a new p/c kit for this saw. Do you guys know if HL supply's oem kit is mahle?

They did when I ordered a 262 piston a couple years back.

 

[p61 western]

Well I will scotchbrite and ordering a piston for this cylinder. I'm pretty sure it's stamped "A" but I will have to check tonight.
Does anyone know if meteor has a notation for "a or b" when ordering?
Also I will probably still order a new p/c kit for this saw. Do you guys know if HL supply's oem kit is mahle?

The new oem top ends are KS. Not sure if Hl has them or not. @Spike60 or @Onan18 can take care of you though for sure. Oh and dibz on the old cylinder lol.

 

[Intoxsawcated]

The new oem top ends are KS. Not sure if Hl has them or not. @Spike60 or @Onan18 can take care of you though for sure. Oh and dibz on the old cylinder lol.

The new ones are KS? How do they compare to the older cylinders? Mine is an untapped Mahle decomp.

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[p61 western]

The new ones are KS? How do they compare to the older cylinders? Mine is an untapped Mahle decomp.

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From what I have seen they are pretty close to the mahle decomp cylinder.

 

[roadster27]

The new oem top ends are KS. Not sure if Hl has them or not. @Spike60 or @Onan18 can take care of you though for sure. Oh and dibz on the old cylinder lol.

Thanks for the info.

I really want to put this thing on my lathe and play with it. Don't think I will be doing that to this Mahle cylinder. Probably just clean up, new piston and then keep the Mahle for a base line.

Are the oem KS cylinders worth buying over an A/M? They don't look to much more $ that a good A/M.....

 

[p61 western]

Yeah the new oem is definitely a better option than aftermarket especially for the price. @XP_Slinger has one on his, and can tell you all about it.

 

[XP_Slinger]

A is ok in a B bore/B is ok in a A bore. You probably wouldn’t want to put a C piston in a A bore.

I disagree for this instance. The cylinder is serviceable but worn. I wouldn’t want an A piston in a B bore in this case. All things being new, I agree 100%.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Yeah the new oem is definitely a better option than aftermarket especially for the price. @XP_Slinger has one on his, and can tell you all about it.

Yes sir I’ve got no complaints at all with my new production KS. I haven’t ported it yet because I’m happy with how it runs.

 

[roadster27]

I disagree for this instance. The cylinder is serviceable but worn. I wouldn’t want an A piston in a B bore in this case. All things being new, I agree 100%.

I was thinking the same. But I'm new....lol

 

[roadster27]

So question.
Port the old worn Mahle and keep KS Stock or vis vers....?

 

[Dub11]

Of you are looking for oem parts here is HLSupply's oem site.
https://www.opesupply.com/

 

[XP_Slinger]

I was thinking the same. But I'm new....lol

Lol! New don’t mean nothing bud.

If it were my saw I’d want things as tight as possible even if the cylinder wasn’t worn.

 

[XP_Slinger]

So question.
Port the old worn Mahle and keep KS Stock or vis vers....?

That’s tough. If it were me I think I’d leave the Mahle stock and do my grinding on the KS. Those old non-decomp Mahle cylinders are becoming a little difficult to find except for a few members here that have a horde of them.

 

[Intoxsawcated]

That’s tough. If it were me I think I’d leave the Mahle stock and do my grinding on the KS. Those old non-decomp Mahle cylinders are becoming a little difficult to find except for a few members here that have a horde of them.

I think you may have the names mixed up, maybe not (I'm still new to this) but if I recall the older KS non-decomps are like hens teeth and run stronger. My brother has 2 ( lucky bugger ) and it definately runs stronger than the mahle on my saw due to the smaller combustion chamber.

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