Need some port numbers

[old guy]

A few years ago I aquired an 044 stihl, even with a D handle this became unstartable for my 84 year old carcass.
So I bought a new stihl oem 046 cyl. & piston with a decomp button (made in Brazil).
I made a thinner base gasket which gave me a squish of .018, well, I can't start that either, so I went back to the original base gasket, squish is .032, now I can start it.
What are some good work saw No's to grind to, I will not be advancing the spark. Thanks

 

[huskihl]

Do you know what your timing numbers are now as it sits? The 046/460 numbers vary a little bit so I was wondering which one you had to help you out with which way you should go

 

[old guy]

Do you know what your timing numbers are now as it sits? The 046/460 numbers vary a little bit so I was wondering which one you had to help you out with which way you should go

Thanks for the reply, I will have to take it down again & put the wheel on it, it sounds pretty nasty the way it is.

 

[old guy]

I put this thing into some hard 20'' red oak today, 24'' bar, I may run it as is for a while, it is a strong engine.
However it is pouring bar oil out the bottom with the screw turned all the way in & the idle needs adjusting.

 

[drf256]

Try the thinner gasket again and add a husky 395 blue button decomp to it. See if you can start it.

The Husky decomp is a direct bolt in and should pop at a higher pressure than the Stihl one. Most often, the Stihls pop for me at every start attempt. The Husky usually only pop if the engine fires. Push down everytime though.

I’m not sure why people hate decomps. I wish every saw had them. I’m old enough to no longer need to prove how strong I am. In addition, the decomps cause less stress on the starter mechanisms.

If someone can give me a sensible answer about how a decomp “leaks” in a running 2T motor I am all ears. Yes, a leaking decomp may cause a failed vac test, but it shouldn’t affect a running motor in any way.

Sounds like you made an 044/046 hybrid. Most 044 came with the “dummy” coil. If you can find an original 046 coil, it has start ignition retard built in. @jacob j. would know the PN. I forget it. It will help tremendously with starting. Most starting issues have to do with not pulling the engine over fast enough to get past the firing of the engine.

Another trick is to add a small “T” slot to the center top of the exhaust roof. I’ve tried on a few saws and it seemed to work.

Good hybrid numbers are 100/122/78 btw.

 

[old guy]

Thanks DRF256, I already have the 395 decomp in it & it only pops when it fires
That thin gasket is a bit too much for me tho. Thanks for the info about the coil.
I agree with you on decomps also.

 

[old guy]

Found the oil leak, it seems somewhere back in time someone put the long screws in the bottom of the handle mount, one of em punched the oil tank.
Got the first coat of JB weld on it.

 

[EFSM]

If someone can give me a sensible answer about how a decomp “leaks” in a running 2T motor I am all ears. Yes, a leaking decomp may cause a failed vac test, but it shouldn’t affect a running motor in any way.

They start to leak enough to matter when the detention spring breaks and they get floppy. I’ve never seen an intact one leak, and I’ve seen plenty of fallen apart ones still sealing enough to work.

 

[huskihl]

They start to leak enough to matter when the detention spring breaks and they get floppy. I’ve never seen an intact one leak, and I’ve seen plenty of fallen apart ones still sealing enough to work.

Mostly what he’s getting at is many people saying that it’s a cause of an air leak and that it will suck air in and can potentially score the piston. In reality there’s no time at which there’s a vacuum above the piston when it could suck air in. Easy enough to test. Get a saw a good warmed up after making a few cuts and check the tune. Push the decomp in and check the tune again. It stays right in the same spot. If it were sucking air, you’d obviously pick up a few RPMs

 

[EFSM]

Mostly what he’s getting at is many people saying that it’s a cause of an air leak and that it will suck air in and can potentially score the piston. In reality there’s no time at which there’s a vacuum above the piston when it could suck air in. Easy enough to test. Get a saw a good warmed up after making a few cuts and check the tune. Push the decomp in and check the tune again. It stays right in the same spot. If it were sucking air, you’d obviously pick up a few RPMs

I should have specified that if they leak, it’s leaking out compression, not sucking in maverick air. Pushing it in it lowers the engine speed if there is any change at all.
I remember a discussion a couple years ago about whether or not there was any vacuum above the piston or if the transfers relied on pressure to flow. Some people thought that the transfers couldn’t flow enough relying on pressure alone, and that the exhaust charge actually pulled a vacuum on the combustion chamber at the end of the exhaust duration. However, it seems like that would encourage transfer loss out the exhaust. I’ve been on both sides but currently I’m with you; I’m not sure how there could be a vacuum except with a tuned pipe.

 

[EFSM]

I hope the OP doesn’t mind the massive tangent.

 

[old guy]

I hope the OP doesn’t mind the massive tangent.

Hey, go for it, I need as much learnin as anybody!