Need some advice re: 562XP with oil leak

[NIdaho]

I should probably mention a few facts about the saw.

• It is actually a 562XPW (Wrap Handle)
• I bought it brand new from a dealer in early 2016 (late winter/early spring) as an upgrade to my 266SE and L65 saws (the L65 was my dad's 1'st Husqvarna and still runs GREAT))
• Serial tag shows it was built in 2015
• Its not been used commercially (just here on our place in northern Idaho and our lake place in western Montana)
• Dealer is no longer in business (long time local shop that loggers in the area used and has since gone out of business as the owner retired)

Last fall I started noticing a bit of a leak of bar oil -- more than a few drips of oil coming from the chain or bar and it seemed to get progressively worse. I thought that was really strange as it had never leaked oil previously. This winter I picked up the saw and it was sitting in a pool of bar oil (and the tank was about empty).

Long story short, I ordered the oil hose, oil pump and the chain guide plate (has the opening for the end of oil hose and the bar mounts against it) as these are all the parts that I figured might have a part in an bar oil leak (that is everything between the oil tank and the bar itself). When all the parts came in, I disassembled the clutch side and couldn't see any problem with any of the parts. I went ahead and reassembled it using all the new parts (and bagged up all the old parts as possible spares). Everything looked great, so I went ahead and filled the oil tank with bar oil and set the saw on some cardboard. the next morning there is a small pool of oil on the cardboard! Like I said, I put oil in the tank, but I never even started the saw so I am thinking that the oil hasn't even gone thru the new oil pump.

So after being really frustrated with the saw still leaking I dug into it some more to see if I could figure out where exactly it was leaking (probably should have done this first). First I did some checking to see if it was leaking out of the oil tank vent between the bar mount bolts. After checking it out, I couldn't find any evidence that that was the cause of the leak, and I was seeing more oil near the gasket between the 2 halve of the crankcase/oil tank. I then took the wrap handle off and undid the anti-vibration mounts so that I could move the control handle/gas tank to get to the bottom of the crankcase. Once I got that far, it didn't take me long to figure out what was going on -- someone used the WRONG SCREWS when they assembled the full wrap handle onto the saw.

You can see the 2 spots on the bottom of the crankcase where the screws have been wearing holes thru the case.

So now the Question is where to go from here?
This was a definite mistake by someone of using the wrong screws at this location.
Like I said the shop I bought it from is out of business.
The factory warranty has expired so I am doubtful that Husqvarna will do anything for me.

IDEAS? SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

I should probably mention a few facts about the saw.

• It is actually a 562XPW (Wrap Handle)
• I bought it brand new from a dealer in early 2016 (late winter/early spring) as an upgrade to my 266SE and L65 saws (the L65 was my dad's 1'st Husqvarna and still runs GREAT))
• Serial tag shows it was built in 2015
• Its not been used commercially (just here on our place in northern Idaho and our lake place in western Montana)
• Dealer is no longer in business (long time local shop that loggers in the area used and has since gone out of business as the owner retired)

Last fall I started noticing a bit of a leak of bar oil -- more than a few drips of oil coming from the chain or bar and it seemed to get progressively worse. I thought that was really strange as it had never leaked oil previously. This winter I picked up the saw and it was sitting in a pool of bar oil (and the tank was about empty).

Long story short, I ordered the oil hose, oil pump and the chain guide plate (has the opening for the end of oil hose and the bar mounts against it) as these are all the parts that I figured might have a part in an bar oil leak (that is everything between the oil tank and the bar itself). When all the parts came in, I disassembled the clutch side and couldn't see any problem with any of the parts. I went ahead and reassembled it using all the new parts (and bagged up all the old parts as possible spares). Everything looked great, so I went ahead and filled the oil tank with bar oil and set the saw on some cardboard. the next morning there is a small pool of oil on the cardboard! Like I said, I put oil in the tank, but I never even started the saw so I am thinking that the oil hasn't even gone thru the new oil pump.

So after being really frustrated with the saw still leaking I dug into it some more to see if I could figure out where exactly it was leaking (probably should have done this first). First I did some checking to see if it was leaking out of the oil tank vent between the bar mount bolts. After checking it out, I couldn't find any evidence that that was the cause of the leak, and I was seeing more oil near the gasket between the 2 halve of the crankcase/oil tank. I then took the wrap handle off and undid the anti-vibration mounts so that I could move the control handle/gas tank to get to the bottom of the crankcase. Once I got that far, it didn't take me long to figure out what was going on -- someone used the WRONG SCREWS when they assembled the full wrap handle onto the saw.

You can see the 2 spots on the bottom of the crankcase where the screws have been wearing holes thru the case.

So now the Question is where to go from here?
This was a definite mistake by someone of using the wrong screws at this location.
Like I said the shop I bought it from is out of business.
The factory warranty has expired so I am doubtful that Husqvarna will do anything for me.

IDEAS? SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks,

Bob

A new case is the best way to fix that. Probably cheaper than tearing it down buying parts and having it welded.

But...... Personally. I would remove some paint, clean it very well and use some fusor and run it.




Steven

 

[Stump Shot]

Best quickest way to get going again for this particular model is a complete short block from Husqvarna https://www.hlsproparts.com/product-p/580663712.htm
Which is one half the money to buy just the case by itself.
Other than epoxy, either welding or used case halves will require a special tool to split the cases as the crank has a stuffer on it.
I have a used case if you would like to go that route you can have it for the asking.

 

[MAF143]

Bummer. Might try cleaning it super good w/ alcohol, drill some tiny gripper holes around it and JB weld it??? might be worth a try.

That just makes me want to cry...

 

[1Snowcat]

Not really a cheap fix BUT, I'd tear it down get one of the TOP porters on this site to add some power while its torn apart.... while it's torn down have it welded (srcarr52 on here) obviously have the correct screws put back and smile that you have a ported saw that rips and no more leaks!
I'm skeptical when it comes to using epoxy type glue on any oily surfaces its going to take getting that thing surgical clean for the epoxy to hold... let alone not leak and hope it holds . I've seen guys try and glue aluminum cases on lots of ATVs, motorcyles minibikes, watercraft etc... usually with a poor results...
The saw looks to be in excellent shape why not keep it and use it for a lifetime of use! In the end you will be happy with the outcome!

 

[1Snowcat]

Here is Shaun's work... same problem as your saw only on Stihl 066 case...(magnesium) I would also note this case was rubbed right on the case split line... not an easy fix... your case is rubbed well away from the gasket surface. I can't say enough about Shaun's welding skills!

 

[Shane¹]

There is a thread on here somewhere where someone tapped the case and used a brass plug with sealer to fill the hole then ground it smooth looks like it worked well I think it was in a 357xp case if that helps.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

There is a thread on here somewhere where someone tapped the case and used a brass plug with sealer to fill the hole then ground it smooth looks like it worked well I think it was in a 357xp case if that helps.

That has been done with good results. I was curious about where it rubbed through and the radius. Thought it would be difficult to get sealed. Now I have used these auto body push pins and some ultra gray. They work very well, but I wouldn't consider them a permanent solution.



Steven