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tree monkey

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the transfers take more time then the rest of the saw. it's the most important part of it too. I widen most 4 port engines, but rarely widen a 2 port.
the main port is towards the exhaust, secondary towards the intake.
I widened the mains towards the exhaust port. I do this so I can keep the angle of the port angled towards the intake. I do my best to keep the tunnel the same width and height. a small taper is ok(wider at the base). on the secondary's, the port match didn't allow much room to widen the port. so I cut the port on an angle from the base to the window, and cut the web on an angle to match.
 

tree monkey

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the secondary look like it has a dip in it, i'll have to look at it again, but I think it's a shadow.
I like to have the last, about, 1/4 " of the port to be flat. parallel to the piston crown. the secondary's are angled upward stock, and I usually cut through then to get the shape I want. the roof of this port has to be very thin. I want a nice even radius up the back.
 

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I mark the top of the intake on the piston at bdc. and the intake shape on the bottom.

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I raised the intake port .100.

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marked the flour of the exhaust port at bdc, and the port shape at tdc.
 

tree monkey

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I put the ring on the piston to hold it in place. I line up the bdc marks in the ports. I then mark the piston to the cylinder. this mark might over lap the port shape mark. you need to leave .050 over lap. in other words, DON'T FREE PORT IT.

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tree monkey

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sense i'm not using the zama, I won't be needing that little manual fuel pump anymore. I think it's a 4 penny nail. fits tight. a dab of durco in the hole, tap the cut off nail in, and a piece of shrink tube. works for me
 

tree monkey

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i'll update this in the next few days. i'm using a 20" 3/8 bar with 72 jp chain
 
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