the transfers take more time then the rest of the saw. it's the most important part of it too. I widen most 4 port engines, but rarely widen a 2 port.
the main port is towards the exhaust, secondary towards the intake.
I widened the mains towards the exhaust port. I do this so I can keep the angle of the port angled towards the intake. I do my best to keep the tunnel the same width and height. a small taper is ok(wider at the base). on the secondary's, the port match didn't allow much room to widen the port. so I cut the port on an angle from the base to the window, and cut the web on an angle to match.
the secondary look like it has a dip in it, i'll have to look at it again, but I think it's a shadow.
I like to have the last, about, 1/4 " of the port to be flat. parallel to the piston crown. the secondary's are angled upward stock, and I usually cut through then to get the shape I want. the roof of this port has to be very thin. I want a nice even radius up the back.
I put the ring on the piston to hold it in place. I line up the bdc marks in the ports. I then mark the piston to the cylinder. this mark might over lap the port shape mark. you need to leave .050 over lap. in other words, DON'T FREE PORT IT.
sense i'm not using the zama, I won't be needing that little manual fuel pump anymore. I think it's a 4 penny nail. fits tight. a dab of durco in the hole, tap the cut off nail in, and a piece of shrink tube. works for me
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