Must have saws

[Stihlkillstrees]

I imagine most 064's by now are worn out parts saws. 084's always go fast because they mod well and when a long bar is needed I think a lot of people like the manual override on the oiler.

 

[Ryan Browne]

I don't know what's happening to me. There's so many must-have saws. Somehow I currently own 11 saws. Two are paid for but not delivered to me yet. Two are sold to a friend, but not paid for, and one more is listed for sale, so that'd bring my to 9 which is still 3X as many as I need.

Worst part is that I still want more...

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I don't know what's happening to me. There's so many must-have saws. Somehow I currently own 11 saws. Two are paid for but not delivered to me yet. Two are sold to a friend, but not paid for, and one more is listed for sale, so that'd bring my to 9 which is still 3X as many as I need.

Worst part is that I still want more...

What are they? I'm in a safe boat with the 044 correct?

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I imagine most 064's by now are worn out parts saws. 084's always go fast because they mod well and when a long bar is needed I think a lot of people like the manual override on the oiler.

Can you explain a manual oiler?

 

[Red97]

Can you explain a manual oiler?

A thumb button on the handle. To give an extra squirter of oil while in a long cut.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Im cutting back. Im finding once you have 2-4 of each size husky you realize you just cant run them enough to justify it. I should be down to 30 or so pretty soon.

 

[Windthrown]

I would say these saws (I have owned all of these Stilhs at one time or other, and most of these Huskys):

Stihl: 026 or MS260 with Picco B&C (they scream), the 036 or MS360, the MS361 (my favorite of all saws), the 044 or MS440, and the later 066 and MS 660. -later added: MS461-

Husky (and Jred equivalents): the 346xp 2nd edition, the 262xp (if you can find one; best saw Husky made!) the 550xp, the 371/372xp type 1 and 372xpw (larger engine) but not the later 372xp x-torq -too vibration prone-, and the 576xp.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I have your 262...

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I would say these saws (I have owned all of these Stilhs at one time or other, and most of these Huskys):

Stihl: 026 or MS260 with Picco B&C (they scream), the 036 or MS360, the MS361 (my favorite of all saws), the 044 or MS440, and the later 066 and MS 660.

Husky (and Jred equivalents): the 346xp 2nd edition, the 262xp (if you can find one; best saw Husky made!) the 550xp, the 371/372xp type 1 and 372xpw (larger engine) but not the later 372xp x-torq -too vibration prone-, and the 576xp.

Thoughts on 661 with auto tune carb? I am not familiar at all, but have been looking at a few. It doesn't even appear to have any adjustments on the side. Is it electronically controlled and if so how robust of a system is that vs a couple screws.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Thoughts on 661 with auto tune carb? I am not familiar at all, but have been looking at a few. It doesn't even appear to have any adjustments on the side. Is it electronically controlled and if so how robust of a system is that vs a couple screws.

Well, robustness is arguable. We'll know more in five years. But, performance seems strongly in favor of the computer. The fuel delivery can keep up with pretty substantial mods to the saw, which is cool, and they are much better at tuning and changing tune when necessary than a human when they are functioning correctly. Of course, there's been plenty if examples of them failing and wrecking a top end, but that happens with regular carbs too.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

So when they fail, you just suck it up and rebuild?

 

[Stihlkillstrees]

My buddy took the mtronic crap off, retrofitted a 660 carb on it. Got sick it trying to recalibrate 3-4 times a day.

 

[Ryan Browne]

So when they fail, you just suck it up and rebuild?

I suppose that depends, but yes some would be rebuilt. Some have been warrantied, I'm sure, some scrapped. Same as any other fried saw. I'm not saying it's a common occurrence, but it's happened. Or at least the computer has been blamed.

 

[Windthrown]

Thoughts on 661 with auto tune carb? I am not familiar at all, but have been looking at a few. It doesn't even appear to have any adjustments on the side. Is it electronically controlled and if so how robust of a system is that vs a couple screws.

I ran a long thread on AS about the 661 "recall" (they were recalled in the EU but not here in NA) after they came out. They have since been re-designed (new P&C and intake boot, and a new coil). The ones in NA are all autotune, or what Stihl calls Mtronic. Meaning that a sensor adjusts the jets on the carb and the coil has variable timing. Mtronic comes on the 362, 261 and 441 as well. There is a non-Mtronic 661 but it is only available in Eastern Europe. I looked into getting one, but the cost was too high. Many people like the 661 and Mtronic saws, but I prefer to be able to tune my saws, so I am keeping my 660 and other non-Mtronic/autotune saws for now. The Husky 576 was autotune as well and they had a lot of problems with rolling that one out, but they later came out with a tuneable one.

The issue with my list of saws is that with the exception of the 550xp and the 576xp, all the saws are no longer sold new in NA. The main reasons are smog, strato/xTorq air injection and autotune/Mtronic, but in the case of the newer 372 the vibration also went way up. I think that the 461 is the better Stihl saw, though it is AV rubber mounted and not spring mounted. It is not Mtronic and not classic strato. Supposedly the new version is coming out soon. Supposedly. The Husky 372 replacement prototypes have been tested in the field for over 3 years now, and no word on that ever being released. Its in development though.

So I would add the MS461 to my list above.

 

[Windthrown]

The problem with Mtronic here is that I am at elevation and I can go up 5k feet or down 1k feet in a hurry here. According to one Stihl rep that I talked to, you are supposed reset the saw to let the saw recalibrate when you change elevation. To me that is absurd. I can retune my saws in about 30 seconds with an orange screwdriver. The issue is not going up in elevation, but going down. Denser atmosphere means running leaner, and running leaner will overheat the saw and lead to scoring and damage. I tend to run my saws a bit fat (rich) after removing the carby limiter tabs. I also use 42:1 Jaso FD rated oil. That is mixed at a rate of 3 oz. oil per gallon of gas. But that is for the 'which oil should I use' thread.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

I ran a long thread on AS about the 661 "recall" (they were recalled in the EU but not here in NA) after they came out. They have since been re-designed (new P&C and intake boot, and a new coil). The ones in NA are all autotune, or what Stihl calls Mtronic. Meaning that a sensor adjusts the jets on the carb and the coil has variable timing. Mtronic comes on the 362, 261 and 441 as well. There is a non-Mtronic 661 but it is only available in Eastern Europe. I looked into getting one, but the cost was too high. Many people like the 661 and Mtronic saws, but I prefer to be able to tune my saws, so I am keeping my 660 and other non-Mtronic/autotune saws for now. The Husky 576 was autotune as well and they had a lot of problems with rolling that one out, but they later came out with a tuneable one.

The issue with my list of saws is that with the exception of the 550xp and the 576xp, all the saws are no longer sold new in NA. The main reasons are smog, strato/xTorq air injection and autotune/Mtronic, but in the case of the newer 372 the vibration also went way up. I think that the 461 is the better Stihl saw, though it is AV rubber mounted and not spring mounted. It is not Mtronic and not classic strato. Supposedly the new version is coming out soon. Supposedly. The Husky 372 replacement prototypes have been tested in the field for over 3 years now, and no word on that ever being released. Its in development though.

So I would add the MS461 to my list above.

The 461 is kinda what got all this started. I have the 044, but the 461 seems to be all the rave. Then I saw a nice dolmar 7900, both similar, but close enough to the 044 to make them unnecessary. I guess I just like buying stuff haha. I am also interested in a 460 P/C on the 044, and a 660 for milling or an 090... ugh my list just grows.

 

[Windthrown]

Bastardized 460 P&C is a waste on an 044 IMO. I have owned both. The 044 has way smoother AV than the 460 and lighter and more nimble, and you can put a CDN 460 dual port muffler cover on an o44 and get almost the stock 460 power. Its that simple. 660s are good saws. The 461 has the same AV numbers as a 440, 460 power, no Mtronic crap and better strato. 090 is a beast and clutches can be an issue on them.

Dolmar... the 7900 looks like a 1960's hair dryer, and they hard to get in thee parts. Only one Dolly dealer anywhere near here that sells them. I would have to pass about 10 Stihl shops just to get there.

 

[unionvillecountryboy]

Bastardized 460 P&C is a waste on an 044 IMO. I have owned both. The 044 has way smoother AV than the 460 and lighter and more nimble, and you can put a CDN 460 dual port muffler cover on an o44 and get almost the stock 460 power. Its that simple. 660s are good saws. The 461 has the same AV numbers as a 440, 460 power, no Mtronic crap and better strato. 090 is a beast and clutches can be an issue on them.

Dolmar... the 7900 looks like a 1960's hair dryer, and they hard to get in thee parts. Only one Dolly dealer anywhere near here that sells them. I would have to pass about 10 Stihl shops just to get there.

So no on the bastardized haha. Well I have a thread where I asked about tuning on my 044. When I was researching them I saw you should watch for seals leaking. When I tuned mine via a pretty good Youtube video with a DTI-20k, the chain would still spin slowly at 2500 rpm idle unless stopped with brake and then release brake. It also jumped around a lot at idle, from about 2500 to 2750, and it seemed to take a long time to get to idle from 3300 or so on down, so I may take it in for a leak down. And I need to check the clutch springs.

 

[Windthrown]

Sounds like you need to re-tune the L screw. Sounds like you may need new clutch springs as well. Seals may be the issue, or a leak in the impulse line.

Best saw tuning information is on the Madsons site here: http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

 

[mdavlee]

So no on the bastardized haha. Well I have a thread where I asked about tuning on my 044. When I was researching them I saw you should watch for seals leaking. When I tuned mine via a pretty good Youtube video with a DTI-20k, the chain would still spin slowly at 2500 rpm idle unless stopped with brake and then release brake. It also jumped around a lot at idle, from about 2500 to 2750, and it seemed to take a long time to get to idle from 3300 or so on down, so I may take it in for a leak down. And I need to check the clutch springs.

Pull the drum and see how much slop the clutch shoes have. If they're tight then poor mans vacuum testing is WD40 while its idling. If it drops when you spray around the seal you've got a leak.