Thought you did the old spot-stitch with mig, came out nice !!!That's tig with 3/32" filler. I had to just drag it in a straight line to keep the puddle connected. These thinner muffler deflectors are harder to weld. I liked the 16 gauge ones.
I'm finding these super difficult to get a nice bead on. My welds come out quite poorly on them.Thought you did the old spot-stitch with mig, came out nice !!!
Especially trying to get through the screen gap, these thin ones just disappear before they puddle. Its like too much filler is the right amount
I see lots of "exploding" happening with them, even after cleaning the metal with a whiz-wheelI'm finding these super difficult to get a nice bead on. My welds come out quite poorly on them.
I'm not sure if it is embedded impurities in the base metal or not. I can get them to seal, but they just don't come out like my other beads.
I am stuck in the darker ages, just before inverters were gaining popularity, I grabbed my 350LX.Thanks Mopar.
Mikes mufflers were virgin material. Exactly.
I plan on trying Jody Collier's rule of 33 pulse on my next muffler project. I use an inverter, so I can pulse up to 999 times a second.
I put a screwdriver under it and tapped the edge down with a hammer. Welded it up and then put a screen and took a round punch and tapped the edge at the front down to crimp the screen in place.Thought you did the old spot-stitch with mig, came out nice !!!
Especially trying to get through the screen gap, these thin ones just disappear before they puddle. Its like too much filler is the right amount
60hz for the hf start ?I use 60Hz, 65% EN and no pulse for aluminum. Sound familiar?
Everyone recommends 100Hz. I learned on a Syncrowave 250. I still like the settings.
I use 60Hz, 65% EN and no pulse for aluminum. Sound familiar?
Everyone recommends 100Hz. I learned on a Syncrowave 250. I still like the settings.