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MS261CM M-Tronic Issues and Many GFY’s

Stump Shot

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I don't know that the carb "needs" to be dicked with under normal operating circumstances. I think most people are going to use these to cut 8 inch wood and in that case this problem would never arise. With a 20 inch bar buried it takes five successive cuts to make it happen

That's a very low starvation rate and I can't say as I have put one to that kind of endurance test for any good feedback.
 

huskihl

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That's a very low starvation rate and I can't say as I have put one to that kind of endurance test for any good feedback.
I hadn't before either, which it was why I thought it was only the v2 models. Figured I'd try the v1 in the garage and it did the same thing.
 

MustangMike

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I have a MMWS 261 V II with 18" 3/8" and I've pushed it lots of times w/o any problems. However, I do keep the chain sharp and run square file. It is one of my favorite saws, great for limbing and smaller bucking.
 

Gypo Logger

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Nice thread. I put 3 tanks through a new 261C and I have to say I’m impressed. For a small stock saw it did ok with 16” 3/8 40:1. I felt like scissor hands and sliced and diced just one cord of dead standing limby spruce into 16”.just for *s-words and giggles.
It purrs like a kitten and starts well.
Anyway, I don’t want to dick around with it as of now, but was wanting to do a basic muff mod, but how does one get in there?
After cutting 3 tanks worth of wood fibre I noticed the air box was still spotless.
Just to make a long story short, I bought 2 more 261C Arctics.
I hope the day doesn’t come when I have to actually work on one.
It’s not a 346, but a beautiful saw all the same.
This is where I’d like a chicom muffler and leave the stock one harmless.
 
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drf256

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Nice thread. I put 3 tanks through a new 261C and I have to say I’m impressed. For a small stock saw it did ok with 16” 3/8 40:1. I felt like scissor hands and sliced and diced just one cord of dead standing limby spruce into 16”.just for *s-words and giggles.
It purrs like a kitten and starts well.
Anyway, I don’t want to dick around with it as of now, but was wanting to do a basic muff mod, but how does one get in there?
After cutting 3 tanks worth of wood fibre I noticed the air box was still spotless.
Just to make a long story short, I bought 2 more 261C Arctics.
I hope the day doesn’t come when I have to actually work on one.
It’s not a 346, but a beautiful saw all the same.
This is where I’d like a chicom muffler and leave the stock one harmless.
The only place to add a deflector is on the starter side in front of the seam. I use screw pop rivets, trying to weld them is an exercise in frustration. There is no internal baffle to worry about.
 

00wyk

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The only place to add a deflector is on the starter side in front of the seam. I use screw pop rivets, trying to weld them is an exercise in frustration. There is no internal baffle to worry about.

Unless they've removed it on a new version of the muffler, there is a shelf that separates the intake side of the muffler from the exit, forcing the exhaust to bounce off the front of the muffler and then back into the exit hole. In other words, a baffle.
Removing this baffle hugely increases the power as well as the noise. And I mean it really increases the dB's. On the ones I do here, you will see at least a 25% improvement in cut times. I have a video showing one that improved cut times by about a 1/3. A good way to tell if your muffler has a baffle is to listen to it. If it isn't loud, it has a baffle. Another way is to remove the muffler and look into it . If you can not see all the way through it, it has a baffle. Here is one with the baffle removed and the exit widened with sunlight shining through.

158364757.gbjFojnk.jpg


 

Duane(Pa)

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Unless they've removed it on a new version of the muffler, there is a shelf that separates the intake side of the muffler from the exit, forcing the exhaust to bounce off the front of the muffler and then back into the exit hole. In other words, a baffle.
Removing this baffle hugely increases the power as well as the noise. And I mean it really increases the dB's. On the ones I do here, you will see at least a 25% improvement in cut times. I have a video showing one that improved cut times by about a 1/3. A good way to tell if your muffler has a baffle is to listen to it. If it isn't loud, it has a baffle. Another way is to remove the muffler and look into it . If you can not see all the way through it, it has a baffle. Here is one with the baffle removed and the exit widened with sunlight shining through.

158364757.gbjFojnk.jpg


I like loud saws! The gains you’re seeing have my attention for sure. My 261 moved on, but a have a 241 and guess the muffler construction is similar.
 

00wyk

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I like loud saws! The gains you’re seeing have my attention for sure. My 261 moved on, but a have a 241 and guess the muffler construction is similar.

The 241 has a similar exhaust, but much shorter. I haven't seen similar gains, tho. Same with the 362. Something about the 261 makes it different. Perhaps it just has more carb and intake. Dunno.
 

Gypo Logger

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The only place to add a deflector is on the starter side in front of the seam. I use screw pop rivets, trying to weld them is an exercise in frustration. There is no internal baffle to worry about.
Just for now I removed the arrestor, hoping to get that 5% gain. Not sure how long break in is, but I suspect one gallon of 40:1 Stihl mix should smarten it up.
Is there any point to those friction fit muffler plugs that block access to the muffler bolts?
 

Gypo Logger

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Unless they've removed it on a new version of the muffler, there is a shelf that separates the intake side of the muffler from the exit, forcing the exhaust to bounce off the front of the muffler and then back into the exit hole. In other words, a baffle.
Removing this baffle hugely increases the power as well as the noise. And I mean it really increases the dB's. On the ones I do here, you will see at least a 25% improvement in cut times. I have a video showing one that improved cut times by about a 1/3. A good way to tell if your muffler has a baffle is to listen to it. If it isn't loud, it has a baffle. Another way is to remove the muffler and look into it . If you can not see all the way through it, it has a baffle. Here is one with the baffle removed and the exit widened with sunlight shining through.

158364757.gbjFojnk.jpg


I’ll take off the muffler tonight and have a look see.
 

Duane(Pa)

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My limited experience is that it will take 10-12 tanks to break in. They are super thrifty fuel sippers, so you will have a sh1t ton of wood cut by the time it is broken in. Someone mentioned dino oil might shorten this. I was running synthetic. Night & day new vs broken in... winning!
 

Gypo Logger

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My limited experience is that it will take 10-12 tanks to break in. They are super thrifty fuel sippers, so you will have a sh1t ton of wood cut by the time it is broken in. Someone mentioned dino oil might shorten this. I was running synthetic. Night & day new vs broken in... winning!
That’s the first thing I noticed. It seems to be a fuel mizer and should get better as it breaks in.
I just burned 2 gallons of Amsoil 32:1 through a 346 and didn’t like the smell and wondering what I was vaping.
 

DND 9000

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Just wondering if anyone has a part number for an outside dawg?

There is a set of spikes availible, because older ones and newer ones are different. That set can be used with the newer slim chain sprocket cover, not with the old cover. The set would be 0000 660 0800, including inner spike 1142 664 0500, outer spike 1141 664 0501, 2 screws 9008 345 0960 and 2 lock nuts 9214 320 0700.
 

RI Chevy

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LMAO. Yessir. But I can't even hang with him...
 
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