High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

MS201T C

Jimmy in NC

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More assembly pics. Clean is the only way to put one of these together correctly. Not bad once cleaned up proper.
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Jimmy in NC

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Its going to be a solid saw again...and I am eager to run it against my stock MS200T. Curious how the two compare stock for stock.

I have confirmed I do have spark. Hooked up the new harness and spun the motor with a drill at 2,000 rpm. Sparks fine.

The coil high tension lead is epoxied in on these. I was not impressed but it is what it is. I chose to seal the damage with marine heat shrink which has a hot glue that seals the connection to intrusions. It was not easy to seat it into the lead retaining pocket but I was able to make it seat and it clears the flywheel. If it becomes a problem I'll change up tactics.
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Jimmy in NC

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Well I am stumped again. When I left the shop last night and when I posted this AM I thought I was on the home stretch. This morning it was 20°F so we had a late start for crews. I had some time and was piddling in the shop for a few minutes. I spun the saw over again and no spark! I did a few quick checks and yes everything is where it should be. It was sparking last night when I left the shop. Carb is all connected and all. I HATE to throw parts at it but I am thinking a solenoid? Coil was quoted at $139.99 this AM.

All new wiring harness and I was damn careful installing it.
 

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Well I am stumped again. When I left the shop last night and when I posted this AM I thought I was on the home stretch. This morning it was 20°F so we had a late start for crews. I had some time and was piddling in the shop for a few minutes. I spun the saw over again and no spark! I did a few quick checks and yes everything is where it should be. It was sparking last night when I left the shop. Carb is all connected and all. I HATE to throw parts at it but I am thinking a solenoid? Coil was quoted at $139.99 this AM.

All new wiring harness and I was damn careful installing it.

That sucks Jim, dam gremlins got it again.
 

Jimmy in NC

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That sucks Jim, dam gremlins got it again.

Yeah, I really don't know. I get the feeling it's something killing the spark as opposed to no spark on the coil. At this point I figure I can open the handle up and make sure nothing is grounding out there but I doubt it. The only other thing is the solenoid to the carburetor.
 

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Well I am stumped again. When I left the shop last night and when I posted this AM I thought I was on the home stretch. This morning it was 20°F so we had a late start for crews. I had some time and was piddling in the shop for a few minutes. I spun the saw over again and no spark! I did a few quick checks and yes everything is where it should be. It was sparking last night when I left the shop. Carb is all connected and all. I HATE to throw parts at it but I am thinking a solenoid? Coil was quoted at $139.99 this AM.

All new wiring harness and I was damn careful installing it.

Finish it completely......then see if it will fire up.

I'm not sold on spark testing these saws.
 

Benjo

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Would a shorted solenoid kill spark? Never heard of solenoids causing ignition issues, but I'm no expert on the mtronics...

If the wiring's good, I usually (and after too much fussing) end up with a new coil and a running saw.

Gambling on a new one is a tough call though, they're hard to diagnose and can fail in different ways...
 

ucm931

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My .02, reverse the reassembly steps you completed between when you had spark and this morning. Check for spark after each puece comes off and see if you get it back. Might help narrow down where the issue is.
 

Jimmy in NC

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Finish it completely......then see if it will fire up.

I'm not sold on spark testing these saws.
You haven't steered me wrong yet....well that one time but we still cannot talk about that in public according to the DA. The next step will be to complete the assembly. At that point it can be hooked to the computer at my local dealer if needed.

I'll keep updating this so others can search it in the future. Very little is written as I think very little is understood about these systems. I like the AutoTune saws of both Husky and Stihl. I especially like the systems for production / commercial use saws. I think that mich like early electronic fuel injection systems in cars, in time these will not be the mystery they are now.
 

Jimmy in NC

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My .02, reverse the reassembly steps you completed between when you had spark and this morning. Check for spark after each puece comes off and see if you get it back. Might help narrow down where the issue is.
Nothing changed other than sitting on the bench overnight. Normally I would agree with your problem solving method.
 

angelo c

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I agree with Randy, these wiring harnesses wont work properly if not completely intact. I tried patching one up ( common on 200T) to no avail 201TC. Check around the wires for continuity when opening and closing the "kill" wiring. Kinda opposite what I was used to on the 200t in that any "open" circuit allowed continuity( and firing) . Didn't see the other side where the "ground" is connected maybe that's "shorting" > best of luck
 

Jimmy in NC

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I agree with Randy, these wiring harnesses wont work properly if not completely intact. I tried patching one up ( common on 200T) to no avail 201TC. Check around the wires for continuity when opening and closing the "kill" wiring. Kinda opposite what I was used to on the 200t in that any "open" circuit allowed continuity( and firing) . Didn't see the other side where the "ground" is connected maybe that's "shorting" > best of luck
Its an all new wiring harness. All continuity checks checked out. I also fixed the recoil screw that was stripped. I do not know if I moved something or these truly do not like to spin over fast...but I have spark tugging the cord and it popped on a prime. We are getting somewhere...
 

redlight066

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Sorry guys. I’m holding this thread up. I’ve been working early to late all week. I went to the post office on Monday and saw this. Usually work at home on Wednesday and got sent to Charlotte. I’ll have Jimmy’s parts out this morning so he can finish this m’fer
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Jimmy in NC

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Sorry guys. I’m holding this thread up. I’ve been working early to late all week. I went to the post office on Monday and saw this. Usually work at home on Wednesday and got sent to Charlotte. I’ll have Jimmy’s parts out this morning so he can finish this m’fer
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You owe nobody an apology! Work comes before a hobby and a saw that's been to multiple shops is never a rush!

I dug into the MS200T they gave me at the same time last night...boy what a mess.

The reason it came to me was the intake popped off the jug from a broken lower AV mount. As I dug into it, which wasn't deep, its clearly on its final days. Nothing says quality workmanship like mix matched screws. How you loose so many of the wonderful T27 headed screws when working on a saw I do not know. The best is when they install a coarse threaded screw from a Husky in the hole! Yeah...lets destroy the threads for sure!

I dug in and found a new one I've never seen before.... refrigeration tape on the intake to help seal the Farmertech intake manifold. If it doesn't seal when installing, DO NOT send it out. Duh. Cleaned it up, new OEM manifold [yeah it cost me over $50 US], lubed the retaining ring, and all slid into place nice and snug. All new AVs and fixing what screw holes I could along the way...it should live a little longer.

Now the scary part is these were done at a Stihl shop listed as a Gold Service center. Its things like this that make me not trust anyone to work on my stuff.
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redlight066

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Two years ago I bought a bag of five farmertech intake manifolds. NONE of them would pass a pressure/vac test. And yes, the OEM ones are expensive. After throwing the farmertech ones away I ordered five from the dealer. $190 and change WITH my 10% discount.......shameful but they at least they seal.
 

redlight066

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More AM bashing. This muffler was on a 395 I just worked on. What a waste of money. Yes the OEM muffler is pricey but you get whatcha pay for
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