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Mcculloch sp125/101b kart saw build thread

Bigmac

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Gentleman, how to take the clutch off? I've loosen the nut, looks like a keyway slot on the spindle? But it aint coming off. Some heat?
You should have a 4 shoe clutch, it has two holes for a puller. Are you using a puller? Sometimes you have to wack the top of the puller to set her free! Also ditch the key on the clutch side! It can damage the crank
 

Al Smith

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I don't know about the cp 125 but the sp 125 did not have a keyway .It works like a Morse taper drill bit ,the taper holds it on .However it is a McCulloch so anything could be possible .You might try a few taps with a soft head dead blow hammer to pop it off .
 

jacob j.

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Sometimes the clutch will just come off if you hold the clutch drum in your hand and tap the end of the crank with a brass hammer. I loosen the clutch nut and back it
out until the edge of the nut is flush with the end of the threads on the crank and then use a brass hammer.

Like Nathan mentioned - the clutch should have two holes also for a puller. If it's really on there due to corrosion, it may need some heat to work it loose.
 

qurotro

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You should have a 4 shoe clutch, it has two holes for a puller. Are you using a puller? Sometimes you have to wack the top of the puller to set her free! Also ditch the key on the clutch side! It can damage the crank
It is a 4 shoes clutch. I didn't even know there's a puller for that. Didn't mess it with any force before asking you guys. The clutch has some oxidation, but not really rusty. Are there any threads on the clutch?
 

Bigmac

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It is a 4 shoes clutch. I didn't even know there's a puller for that. Didn't mess it with any force before asking you guys. The clutch has some oxidation, but not really rusty. Are there any threads on the clutch?
It’s on a tapper, like Jacob said they sometimes pop right off, and sometimes they need a puller, a steering wheel puller will work. I had an extra stubborn one, and it was difficult even with a puller!
 

Scott Kelsey

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This saw came from another fellow member, It's a very nice saw and runs great. Unfortunately the fuel
tank must have taken a hit and leaks. So i'm on the lookout for a fuel tank that will hopefully match the
rest of the saw.

View attachment 319749 View attachment 319750

Lee, I have an extra SP125 fuel tank that is in good shape. It would be correct for your application, with the hole for carb adjustment except it was originally black and I feel would need a repaint. If you find you need it let me know.

Also, hope this is alright, but I am looking for a good condition rear cylinder shroud for a SP125C as well as the later model air cleaner cover that has the two stickers. I have two good condition, no cracks, etc. Early 125 air cleaner covers if someone wants to trade.
 

Bigmac

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Lee, I have an extra SP125 fuel tank that is in good shape. It would be correct for your application, with the hole for carb adjustment except it was originally black and I feel would need a repaint. If you find you need it let me know.

Also, hope this is alright, but I am looking for a good condition rear cylinder shroud for a SP125C as well as the later model air cleaner cover that has the two stickers. I have two good condition, no cracks, etc. Early 125 air cleaner covers if someone wants to trade.
What color air filter cover are you looking for?
 

Bigmac

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Just spots this variation tonight( why saws should be inside!) 2 extra reinforcing rib on the chain brake cover! So there is at least 4 versions of the 125 cover!6E3B19C4-0BDE-423E-8776-091276052264.jpeg
So early and late style chain brake cover.
Looking back on @Lee H recent haul, the original chain brake saw has the early cover and other chain brake cover is late style and on a non chain brake model. All my saws are mutts so timeframe and originality is learned! Lol
 
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Lee H

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Just a simple note guys, Be careful taping on the end of the crank on either the clutch side
or flywheel side as i had a welded crank weight come off doing so. Saw has a 101 in it and
i wanted to change the rim to 404 from 3/8, Tapped on the crank, Got the clutch off and
back on and the motor was locked up. Ran perfect prior. A welded weight had come off the
crank.
 

jacob j.

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Just a simple note guys, Be careful taping on the end of the crank on either the clutch side
or flywheel side as i had a welded crank weight come off doing so. Saw has a 101 in it and
i wanted to change the rim to 404 from 3/8, Tapped on the crank, Got the clutch off and
back on and the motor was locked up. Ran perfect prior. A welded weight had come off the
crank.

It's probably a good thing though Lee that it came off when it did, otherwise it probably would have come loose when the saw
was running and caused major damaged.

A lot of the kart guys have lost motors due to the crank weights letting loose at high speed.
 

Bigmac

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Just a simple note guys, Be careful taping on the end of the crank on either the clutch side
or flywheel side as i had a welded crank weight come off doing so. Saw has a 101 in it and
i wanted to change the rim to 404 from 3/8, Tapped on the crank, Got the clutch off and
back on and the motor was locked up. Ran perfect prior. A welded weight had come off the
crank.
This is why I am getting them fully tig welded from thr get go! Cheap insurance, and if you add filler rod it helps smooth out on big boresB9D3094C-1E5A-446E-82E2-5CCA7360D214.jpeg
 

heimannm

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For anyone struggling to find the lower mount 85898 I made a post in the McCulloch Chainsaw thread...



Mark
 
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