Machining base without a lathe*

[cease232]

I've been thinking how to use a flush cut router bit on jugs with cylinder extensions and also how to do a jug without them.
This is fantastic!


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For cylinders without extensions the same method can be used, just use a mandrel that's tight in the bore and with a perfect flat top. I can't wait to do more. I've already got ideas for improvement.


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[USMC615]

Nice work cease232...

 

[cease232]

Router sled and a xy vise.

I thought about it, even a "table" with a hole the size of the cylinder would work, only problem there is mounting the cylinder base perfectly parallel beneath the table. I originally considered putting it on a mandrel on the wood lathe, fixing a router to the lathe and spinning the cylinder by hand. Cylinder fins project enough to need a really long bit though. Still trying to work that one out.


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[cease232]

I have a 48" commercial belt sander that I still cut a bunch of stihl bases on simply because I can cut 040 off in less time than I can find the stuff to Chuck it up.
In less than a minute I can cut 040 off and be completely square and flat.
I use a lathe for flanged cylinders and occasionally a stihl.

Only problem is I gave 500$ more for the sander than my lathe.

I have a similar sander. It's definitely the fastest way to take bases down. I paid 75$ for mine. Some guy had it on his back porch for years. Big ol' industrial sander.


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[paragonbuilder]

I have a 48" commercial belt sander that I still cut a bunch of stihl bases on simply because I can cut 040 off in less time than I can find the stuff to Chuck it up.
In less than a minute I can cut 040 off and be completely square and flat.
I use a lathe for flanged cylinders and occasionally a stihl.

Only problem is I gave 500$ more for the sander than my lathe.

Jason what grit paper do you use?


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[jmssaws]

Jason what grit paper do you use?


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I buy custom belts from a company in LA I believe.
I have them from 100 to 600 but use 220 most

The belt runs on flat steel and is 8" wide with a square plate at the bottom,set the cylinder on the plate and against the belt and it's almost impossible to get crooked.
I cut 040 off a base earlier,might have took a minute.
Take me longer to find a sharp cutter for the lathe than to cut one and be done.

I gave 500 for the lathe and 1200 for the sander but doing mostly stihls the lathe rarely gets used

 

[Termitebuffet]

I buy custom belts from a company in LA I believe.
I have them from 100 to 600 but use 220 most

The belt runs on flat steel and is 8" wide with a square plate at the bottom,set the cylinder on the plate and against the belt and it's almost impossible to get crooked.
I cut 040 off a base earlier,might have took a minute.
Take me longer to find a sharp cutter for the lathe than to cut one and be done.

I gave 500 for the lathe and 1200 for the sander but doing mostly stihls the lathe rarely gets used

Could I see a pic ? Of the sander ?

Zoo City Sawz

 

[jmssaws]

Could I see a pic ? Of the sander ?

Zoo City Sawz

When I get back to the shop I'll get you one

 

[cease232]

Here's my sander. It's 60" with a 4" belt. Graphite with steel backing behind the belt. Table is set as close to perpendicular with the belt as possible.

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[jb-chainsaws]

How do you ensure that the base is being taken down evenly on a sander? I'd be concerned that you've take off say 5 thou more on one side than the other just based on your hand pressure, which would surely cause a bigger deflection at the top of the cylinder, effectively making one side of the piston rub the cylinder.

Just my speculation, I'd like to hear some real life examples of this just because I'm curious and I like being proved wrong. It's how I learn

 

[Termitebuffet]

When I get back to the shop I'll get you one

And the setup to grind a base ?

Zoo City Sawz

 

[cease232]

How do you ensure that the base is being taken down evenly on a sander? I'd be concerned that you've take off say 5 thou more on one side than the other just based on your hand pressure, which would surely cause a bigger deflection at the top of the cylinder, effectively making one side of the piston rub the cylinder.

Just my speculation, I'd like to hear some real life examples of this just because I'm curious and I like being proved wrong. It's how I learn

I'd like to hear what Jim does as well. I scribe a reference line around the base and use that for reference. Would 0.005 affect performance? I'm probably not smart enough to answer that but I've found in life that if I wait for everything to be "perfect" I never get anything accomplished.


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[jb-chainsaws]

It's just that 5 thou difference across the bottom would mean probably more than 10 thou difference at TDC, seems it'd put lateral pressure on the sliding piston surface and affect longevity. Especially if it was in a sideways direction as opposed to forward or back

 

[paragonbuilder]

It's just that 5 thou difference across the bottom would mean probably more than 10 thou difference at TDC, seems it'd put lateral pressure on the sliding piston surface and affect longevity. Especially if it was in a sideways direction as opposed to forward or back

I think it would be important to measure at each bolt location before sanding and if different, log the numbers and maintain the difference. Otherwise if they are the same check and adjust as necessary as you go.


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[czar800]

I think it would be important to measure at each bolt location before sanding and if different, log the numbers and maintain the difference. Otherwise if they are the same check and adjust as necessary as you go.


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Thats what I do.

 

[jb-chainsaws]

How do you adjust this whilst:

1. Keeping the base flat
2. Not taking too much off

I don't doubt you do a good job, I'm just commenting on the things I'd balls up on

 

[czar800]

How do you adjust this whilst:

1. Keeping the base flat
2. Not taking too much off

I don't doubt you do a good job, I'm just commenting on the things I'd balls up on

Rotating the cylinder helps you with keeping it even. When I get close to the amount I wanted to remove I go to a finer sandpaper.

 

[cease232]

This is what I do. Set the cylinder on a known flat surface. Scribe the base with a feeler gauge the size of the amount to be removed. This way your taking the same amount at each corner, no measuring needed.

You can sharpie the base to give more contrast if necessary.

Here you can see the scribed line pretty easily.
If the sander is set up correctly getting the base flat is no problem.
I read that the human eye can see 0.004". Lots of people sand the bases and I've never heard of any failures related.


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[dieselfitter]

I have a belt sander I made cheaply. I re-purposed an old industrial treadmill. I cut down the length so I can order "off the shelf" belts from MSC, Enco... It works great. i used it for many years resurfacing transmission parts. It takes up too much room in the shop so I've been trying to sell it on CL.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/tls/5710321288.html

 

[jb-chainsaws]

Would a honing machine work? Might be slow going but it'd let me build confidence