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Green/conifer tricks only work a tiny bit in dead dry brittle oak.
And now you know.Green/conifer tricks only work a tiny bit in dead dry brittle oak.
Looks like he cut through his hinge on the opposite side too?Found this on YouTube.... this is why I do what I do
This guy had the face cut both wrong and with too small an angle, then cut from the back kind of randomly, and the tree started moving before a hinge was "formed" properly , and a few more things that predictably ended up like this What Hinge that was there closed and jacked on that tree, hinge too thick & strong to break, started the "shear" that ended up in a Chair. Won't happen every time, but it's not unusual to see exactly that, especially with small angles and thick hinges.
On tree's like that I plunge cut into the face cut and take about a 1/3 of the hinge away. Bore cut from the hold wood TOO the hinge. Since the tree is not moving with enough "hold" or trigger wood, I have time to form the hinge. Tree isn't moving. Even adjust the face if I needed to. Once the hinge & face cut are "right" nip the trigger and leave. The knowledge or "experience" to make this approach safe is knowing how much hinge is needed.
I think the question now is, how much redirect can you get by adjusting the gun? I think the answer comes from experience and depends on each tree. I know I have gotten too greedy in the past and they just bust off. Gonna try the basic 3’ of lean, 3’ of gun adjust and see.And now you know.
In simple language... If you are cutting from the front of the gun, some as the angle of the "fold" is effected directly. right until your bar gets pinched or your now "Dutchman" does it's dirty deed Cutting from the back? "Chasing"? A little because the varying thickness of said hinge does effect how it folds a bit ( do your compression & tension analysis to find the fold line based on the varying thickness, and THAT is only for the first few degree's of folding. And why sit under a tree anyway? ) . and once the hinge breaks the tree just drops straight from there. Another "twist" is directed by allowing a portion of the hinge to break sooner, then using either the face cut "angle" or lean to effect a direction change as part of the hinge tears while the intact section acts like a rope or cable to get pivot, but a pretty dicey maneuver for most. Me? Why go thru all that chit. Spend the time to get the hinge right, ( bore cut with hold or trigger wood ). No rush and scramble, just get the cut right. Easiest to cut from the hold wood to the back of the hinge with the "bottom" side of the bar first then go to the other side second to finish the hinge & adjust if required the hold wood. ( Some times I "reverse" the preferred side to start the bore cut based on the tree's lean or where I think it might go if it breaks ) Then set away to a safe spot, get your self settled, evaluate what's about to happen with a clear, not rushed; mindset, figure the best place avoiding carnage for your release cut, step in snip and leave. Doing all that with a clear and calm head is really important. Especially with the trees I have where either crap is raining down, or they snap bang hit the ground before you have much time to play around. Or even worse break the hold wood before u have a chance to release the tree. Another subject.....the relationship of the hinge strength to the hold wood.... but this is getting too long.I think the question now is, how much redirect can you get by adjusting the gun? I think the answer comes from experience and depends on each tree. I know I have gotten too greedy in the past and they just bust off. Gonna try the basic 3’ of lean, 3’ of gun adjust and see.
Nice to see you on here posting again Dan.Big eucalyptus I cut a while ago.
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Hi John!Nice to see you on here posting again Dan.
Hey Dan, nice to see you checking in.Big eucalyptus I cut a while ago.
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Thanks Jim! How have you been?Hey Dan, nice to see you checking in.
Doing well, just finishing up the haying season & hopefully have about a month or so of free time before harvest starts. Well, free time to do a bunch of odd jobs that need done & maybe get some saw time in.Thanks Jim! How have you been?
Jumping, climbing and running. Lol. I haven't worked on a saw in nearly a year, besides just routine stuff to keep them cutting.Doing well, just finishing up the haying season & hopefully have about a month or so of free time before harvest starts.
I take it your business is keeping you jumping?
one at a time?