Let’s see some stumps

[Hoser]

Thought I post this one up. Biggest tree I’ve dropped by far 39” across hard maple, did a horrible job meeting up the back cut but it fell where I wanted and no one got hurt. Helpful criticism is welcome as I’m just a 24 year old with no one to learn from

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Thought I post this one up. Biggest tree I’ve dropped by far 39” across hard maple, did a horrible job meeting up the back cut but it fell where I wanted and no one got hurt. Helpful criticism is welcome as I’m just a 24 year old with no one to learn from

Matching up your cuts can seriously be difficult sometimes, but like most things you'll get better with trigger time.
I'll mark my cuts with the saw or with railroad (sidewalk) chalk on big dbh trees. Never hurts to draw your cuts out on a tree to keep yourself strait and safe .

 

[Hoser]

That’s a good idea. I normally carry big crayon, which I forgot and the fresh loop of rs was a bit too grabby to be accurate

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I can usually squeeze a peice of chalk in my pocket or wedge pouch. Plus if you accidentally wash it the MS. won't murder you. Lol

 

[Hoser]

That’s a good point. I spent the better part of an evening taking red marking crayon off a load of laundry with a razor blade last fall can’t say it was my preferred way to spend an evening

 

[davidwyby]

@Hoser Game of Logging methods are pretty safe. I like to measure and mark my stuff out when it’s critical. Gap faces are safe. It’s ok or maybe even preferable to take more vs. less out of the center of the tree.

GOL and loggerjohn on YouTube. Also our own @afleetcommand there. Just started watching Tree Being on Patreon and am learning stuff. Brennen Miller, Top Heavy Timber.

One of my favorite tricks from big old redwood fallers (can’t always trust the sights on your saw) is to measure the face/hinge from a stake in the lay.

Some of the most dangerous trees are the ones leaning into the lay…barber chair…






*not an expert, I just hang out with some online and read books, more education than exp. I cut as much as I can get my saw on.

 

[davidwyby]

Fundamentals of General Tree work by GF Beranek, whom is still around on the Tree House forum, along with other experienced guys. Lots of good old threads there. They just told me the way to line up cuts is practice. Timber Falling by Douglas Dent.

 

[davidwyby]

I have a magnetic bubble level stuck to my bar tucked back between the big dawgs somtimes ;-). Keeping all the cuts level helps line them up.

 

[Hoser]

All excellent information David, I’ve watched alot of afleetcommand on YouTube as the bush he works in seems similar to my conditions and I like his style, no showmanship just the straight goods

 

[silveradol9h]

I have a magnetic bubble level stuck to my bar tucked back between the big dawgs somtimes ;-). Keeping all the cuts level helps line them up.

Got any pics of this level?

 

[davidwyby]

Got any pics of this level?

 

[Jscb1b]

Cottonwood.

 

[silveradol9h]

Nice. That's a pretty good idea.

 

[davidwyby]

Nice. That's a pretty good idea.

Jed :-( has a thread on treehouse about level stumps. He ended up epoxying one to the body of the saw I think.

 

[Jscb1b]

View attachment 388316


Cottonwood.

I'm going to get everything cleaned up then try to flush cut the stump.

 

[afleetcommand]

Found this on YouTube.... this is why I do what I do
This guy had the face cut both wrong and with too small an angle, then cut from the back kind of randomly, and the tree started moving before a hinge was "formed" properly , and a few more things that predictably ended up like this What Hinge that was there closed and jacked on that tree, hinge too thick & strong to break, started the "shear" that ended up in a Chair. Won't happen every time, but it's not unusual to see exactly that, especially with small angles and thick hinges.

On tree's like that I plunge cut into the face cut and take about a 1/3 of the hinge away. Bore cut from the hold wood TOO the hinge. Since the tree is not moving with enough "hold" or trigger wood, I have time to form the hinge. Tree isn't moving. Even adjust the face if I needed to. Once the hinge & face cut are "right" nip the trigger and leave. The knowledge or "experience" to make this approach safe is knowing how much hinge is needed.

 

[Loony661]

On tree's like that I plunge cut into the face cut and take about a 1/3 of the hinge away. Bore cut from the hold wood TOO the hinge. Since the tree is not moving with enough "hold" or trigger wood, I have time to form the hinge. Tree isn't moving. Even adjust the face if I needed to. Once the hinge & face cut are "right" nip the trigger and leave. The knowledge or "experience" to make this approach safe is knowing how much hinge is needed.

I cut most of my trees just like this as well. Safest way to accurately lay a tree where you want it, at least here in these hardwoods.

 

[davidwyby]

Experimenting

 

[chiselbit]

And? What did you conclude? Did your fish gills work? Did the first one come out of its lean at all before the rotten holding wood broke?

 

[davidwyby]

And? What did you conclude? Did your fish gills work?

Did the first one come out of its lean at all before the rotten holding wood broke?

Both hit their lays, the hollow one only barely. Too many gills, too much wedging. Gotta edit and upload vids.