Leather Boot Conditioning and Break-in

[Four Paws]

I got some new steel toe logger boots for working. I've used mink oil in the past, and I'm wondering if there is a better product or method to treat my new boots and break them in.

Looking for your tips, tricks, and favorite products.

 

[HuskyHill]

I've always used Red Wing oil and never had to worry about "breaking in" any of my Red Wing boots.

 

[Jughead]

i stay away from animal fat based conditioners now days since the leather on my boots were rottening within a few months.not only that but the leather would get too soft.i've switched to sno seal which is beeswax based.makes for a really good conditioner and waterproofer.so far so good on this pair.8 months and no signs of rot.still holding shape too.

 

[Jughead]

oh yeah apply the sno seal and heat your boots with a heat gun or hair dryer so it soaks in.

 

[Ronaldo]

i stay away from animal fat based conditioners now days since the leather on my boots were rottening within a few months.not only that but the leather would get too soft.i've switched to sno seal which is beeswax based.makes for a really good conditioner and waterproofer.so far so good on this pair.8 months and no signs of rot.still holding shape too.

I talked to a custom boot maker years ago and he said to stay away from Mink Oil and any animal fat type of conditioner. His reasoning; when you tan a hide most of the oils and fats are removed and you want that so the hide will not rot(reason for tanning in the first place), when using an animal fat it is just adding that stuff back in. I guess it made sense to me when you reason it all out. He recommends an occasional application of vegetable oil to keep the leather soft and supple and in the winter a product like Sno-Seal.
I have been doing this for a number of years and think he was spot on.

 

[concretegrazer]

Definitely use a beeswax product. I like to heat a new pair in the oven, then apply and reheat, then wear while there still hot.

 

[ft. churchill]

Sno seal or hubbard's shoe grease for me.

 

[mdavlee]

Obenaufs

 

[Four Paws]

Thanks for the response, fellas.

 

[jake wells]

motor oil works good to.

 

[ft. churchill]

Both sno seal and hubbard's shoe grease are beeswax based products. Hubbard's also has pine tar in it. Smells good.

 

[ft. churchill]

Hubbard's will make you smell like a north wood's lumberjack.

 

[ft. churchill]

Mink oil will allow the leather to soften and stretch. Beeswax products prevent stretching out of the leather. It also makes the leather much more waterproof than mink oil as the thicker consistency stuffs the pores and prevents infiltration through the pores as well as seams/stitchings.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Neatsfoot oil mixed with beeswax for me..... Though admittedly I am a sneaker guy.

Neatsfoot softens and then a 50-50 with beeswax seals them up.

 

[Jughead]

sneaker guy ^^^^^

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Nothing like a good pair of work sneakers

Get Neatsfoot oil at your local saddle shop.

 

[Shanks]

I make my own blend. Beeswax 2 lbs, 1 cup pine tar, 1 cup tung oil, 1 cup boiled linseed oil. Works great for boots, and if you have any tickets you add a little turpentine to thin. Play a heat gun over til the leather is saturated. I do all my leather boots with this. I just did a carhart chore coat a few months back. It makes a great waterproof wood cutting coat.

 

[Jughead]

damn i aint got but 98...99 posts now.

 

[Jughead]

I make my own blend. Beeswax 2 lbs, 1 cup pine tar, 1 cup tung oil, 1 cup boiled linseed oil. Works great for boots, and if you have any tickets you add a little turpentine to thin. Play a heat gun over til the leather is saturated. I do all my leather boots with this. I just did a carhart chore coat a few months back. It makes a great waterproof wood cutting coat.

i got to get some linseed oil to play with.

 

[Jughead]

or tung oil