I thought Stihl was a good saw!

[Billy Currie]

The only thing I can think of that could give off heavy vibration is a bent crankshaft. I didn't think a bar would cause it.

 

[SpaceBus]

Have you tried to take the saw back to the dealer to have it fixed professionally? Perhaps there is another problem you can't see.

 

[Duce]

Heavy vibration, check between case and fuel tank. Once had a small piece of branch stick between case and tank, though saw lost a crank bearing.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

The reason I asked to see a picture of the current bar is that I wanted to see the wear pattern. The OP stated that he replaced the original bar with only 20-30hrs on it? Well even the laminate bars from stihl are quite robust, the current bar looks awful worn for little use also ? So in investigating any problems with a peice of equipment from tractors to weed wackers I will consider HOW its being used.
I doubt that you'll find many sawyer's replacing a stihl bar after just 30hrs of use unless there's poor maintenance or abuse . Im not trying to be offensive but I had a worker who broke pull cords on husqvarnas like they were made of licorice, am I to assume that all husqvarna cords are weak?
Maybe the OP is 6'5" and has arms like tree trunks and is not good at strength regulation? In any case, the 291 is not a "pro level " saw even if the price point doesn't reflect it and the operator is the most important factor in any peice of equipment.

 

[Fuddyduddy]

Have you tried to take the saw back to the dealer to have it fixed professionally? Perhaps there is another problem you can't see.

I did take it back to the dealer, but my experience is sure they can fix it, but most likely $300+, to me not worth it. I'll just fabricate a bracket holding muffler in place, use it until it quits.
At that point if I can fix it myself $150 or less I'll do that, otherwise buy a different brand new saw. Echo or Husqvarna maybe.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk

 

[Redfin]

You did not answer what bolts you replaced with.

 

[CR888]

Use serrated Stihl screws, the redfin's onto it.

 

[Fuddyduddy]

I replaced with original bolts, but by retapping probably made that hole larger (bolt snapped off is/was harder than block material I bet). So I used a size larger self tapping screws and lockwashers...tight but didn't try lock tight.
I'll make a bracket to hold it on, run it until it quits. Then I'll see about ordering the piston and block kit plus new bolts if not too expensive.
It could be with new battery technology by then I could get a 20" battery powered saw.


Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk

 

[Michael Rupley]

If this continues and there isn't a warranty, you may want to consider drilling the bolt heads and using safety wire.

Billy just how do you wire the bolts down in those small tubes? Do you have a way to do this?

 

[Billy Currie]

Ahh, I didn't realize they were recessed, you could get longer bolts with long tubes that capture the muffler to allow the bolt heads to stick out. Not a perfect arrangement....

 

[Redfin]

Or just tap to next size and use proper bolts.

 

[Egg Shooter]

Or just tap to next size and use proper bolts.

Stop making sense.

 

[Michael Rupley]

Or just tap to next size and use proper bolts.

And again if the larger bolt heads (socket screw heads) don't fit down into the tubes?

 

[Redfin]

“If” they dont fit and you cant sort it mayhaps you should have someone else fix it?

Or just buy a Husky.

 

[P.M.P.]

just buy a Husky.

Best answer

 

[sawmikaze]

“If” they dont fit and you cant sort it mayhaps you should have someone else fix it?

Or just buy a Husky.

Give him your address.

Or maybe a husky.

 

[sawmikaze]

Stop making sense.

Making sense isn't popular on chainsaw forums.

 

[Woodslasher]

Making sense isn't popular on chainsaw forums.

Then why isn’t @Lightning Performance the most popular guy here?

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

Then why isn’t @Lightning Performance the most popular guy here?

Who says he isn't?

 

[drf256]

A timesert would be your best option, and even better in both holes. An M5 kit should be around $70 with inserts. It’s a lot for one saw repair, but a great value if you’ll be continuing to use (which will inevitably mean fixing) saws.

I have M4/5/6 kits and the M6 is rarely if ever used, unlike the 4/5 kits.

That and blue Loctite is your answer. Does your model have any muffler retaining bolts on the lower part of the muffler or is it only held on by the two that bolt to the cylinder?

Also, don’t use red loctite.