High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

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MACHINE

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My old 44.

Still cuts FINE
c28f418cbc499be2b10c51f860b19577.jpg


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kneedeepinsaws

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Btw , I obviously got the full wrap west coast kit . The kit was very nice and included alot of stuff for 40$, but theres a metal bracket that I have no idea where it goes? Or if it even fits the 394 and only goes on the 395xp.View attachment 299093
Saw trim, the best kind of awesomeness
130B0AA2-124A-4B29-B6DC-A5B00513699E.jpeg
 

kneedeepinsaws

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That a kick stand? Lol
Lol yes that’s it’s secondary purpose.
I don’t know the exact real purpose but I have been told it’s to protect the case from it smashing into a tree when bucking… if anyone wants to shed light on that?
394/395 is a really cool saw, it’s the only one I know of in the husky line that had the case protector. Kind of a unique accessory.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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It’s necessary to have that part. That saw will boil the fuel in the carb guaranteed without that partition wall.

Gotcha. Agreed that divider needs to be there -- to keep debris out of the airbox if nothing else. And I also understand it's purpose as a heat barrier as you stated. For some reason I was thinking what Ira pictured was a different, non-standard insulator of some kind for additional heat absorption -- like a plastic vs. metal carb spacer on an older 351 Ford 2-barrel. Sorta jumped to conclusions, there. My bad.

On the other hand, an awful lot of air is blown into the air box from the flywheel airjet -- a lot --, not to mention air drawn directly into the carb through the air filter. 'Course if you're running a stack, so much for the airjet contribution.

While not denying vapor lock can be a problem and has various causes, (many self-inflicted in cases of poor maintenance and a saw caked in crap), I still contend that hot starting issues are just as frequently related to other areas besides vapor lock..., including funky tank venting, poor tuning, ignition -- or the operator simply not taking excessive heat conditions into consideration and operating the equipment well beyond its realistic capabilities, which gets worse with lousy fuel/leaner mixes and at higher altitudes.

Last time I checked, Husky is still making the 395xp with no radical design changes to address the vapor lock 'problem'. Guess they figure anyone who buys one either knows it has a vapor lock 'problem' right out of the box, or more than likely will cause the problem if/when the saw actually experiences one.

Regardless, I'm still looking for that elusive 394/395 project for myself that I'd only run at sea level when it's 50°F with a light breeze blowing and no vapor lock. Just me, my saw and a beautiful sunset.

(So much for back-pedaling and standing my ground at the same time, eh?)

Sorry guys. Too much coffee this morning. I'll go now. LOL
 

huskyboy

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I think the 395 rubber intake boot seems to translate less heat/vibrations to the carb than the old block style on the 394/288.
 

kneedeepinsaws

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So, that saw snuck across the border?
Nope bought at a dealer here in (Calgary Alberta) 2018.
Lots of hours on that saw milling. Rebuilt it a while back, bad big end bearing and worn piston.
Do you say this because of the Brazil manufacture? I was told that husky has some models assembled there I would assume to keep up with demand.
Quality control seemed really good, I did have the clutch side seal pressed in a bit farther than it should as it was rubbing on the bearing if I recall correctly when I pulled it apart.
 

Maintenance Chief

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Gotcha. Agreed that divider needs to be there -- to keep debris out of the airbox if nothing else. And I also understand it's purpose as a heat barrier as you stated. For some reason I was thinking what Ira pictured was a different, non-standard insulator of some kind for additional heat absorption -- like a plastic vs. metal carb spacer on an older 351 Ford 2-barrel. Sorta jumped to conclusions, there. My bad.

On the other hand, an awful lot of air is blown into the air box from the flywheel airjet -- a lot --, not to mention air drawn directly into the carb through the air filter. 'Course if you're running a stack, so much for the airjet contribution.

While not denying vapor lock can be a problem and has various causes, (many self-inflicted in cases of poor maintenance and a saw caked in crap), I still contend that hot starting issues are just as frequently related to other areas besides vapor lock..., including funky tank venting, poor tuning, ignition -- or the operator simply not taking excessive heat conditions into consideration and operating the equipment well beyond its realistic capabilities, which gets worse with lousy fuel/leaner mixes and at higher altitudes.

Last time I checked, Husky is still making the 395xp with no radical design changes to address the vapor lock 'problem'. Guess they figure anyone who buys one either knows it has a vapor lock 'problem' right out of the box, or more than likely will cause the problem if/when the saw actually experiences one.

Regardless, I'm still looking for that elusive 394/395 project for myself that I'd only run at sea level when it's 50°F with a light breeze blowing and no vapor lock. Just me, my saw and a beautiful sunset.

(So much for back-pedaling and standing my ground at the same time, eh?)

Sorry guys. Too much coffee this morning. I'll go now. LOL

Yeah I added alot of starter sheild self adhesive heat barrier to the case around the muffler, I think the way that huge muffler is cradled in the case certainly doesn't help the heat sink.
Thats a big chunk of metal when she gets hot ,and being that the coil is right on the other side of the wall from the muffler ,I insulated it also.
In South Carolina heat is always gonna be a concern rather than cold and muffler mods do help but when the heat index is over 110° things just don't cool off enough. 20210619_165520.jpg
 

kneedeepinsaws

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Yeah I added alot of starter sheild self adhesive heat barrier to the case around the muffler, I think the way that huge muffler is cradled in the case certainly doesn't help the heat sink.
Thats a big chunk of metal when she gets hot ,and being that the coil is right on the other side of the wall from the muffler ,I insulated it also.
In South Carolina heat is always gonna be a concern rather than cold and muffler mods do help but when the heat index is over 110° things just don't cool off enough. View attachment 300003
I did that for my 562 but it made it worse… I found out that my heat tape was thick enough that it prevented air from circulating underneath the muffler.
So as long as air can get in there and promote convection currents I think you have a winner!

If only these saws had a battery and Efan lol. Having it run after it shuts off…
 

Maintenance Chief

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I did that for my 562 but it made it worse… I found out that my heat tape was thick enough that it prevented air from circulating underneath the muffler.
So as long as air can get in there and promote convection currents I think you have a winner!

If only these saws had a battery and Efan lol. Having it run after it shuts off…
I have some frog skinz material but I'm not totally sure I understand what the engineers intended with flywheel fan shroud direction ,so I don't want to start making holes.
I know the air injection system does a good job in the air box but flow under the cylinder shroud I'm not sure?
 
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