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I haven't done a thorough cleaning yet but it does idle and run nicely. I was told it was purchased from an old loggers wife/widow.
The fellow I bought it from wasn't sure if it had a big bore kit,but it has the intake block and low mount filter of the 394 so I doubt it.
The clutch drum bearing was a little worn and frozen and the plastic brake flag is missing along with its hardware but nothing looks broken.
I was looking specifically for a 395xp builder or complete saw but frankly they're pretty close to retail if they run and I've been skunked on finding a good deal. A 2100 has passed my way but it was a high price also.
After reading about a dozen threads it sounds like a 394 may just be giving up a few rpms but has plenty of torque . I was willing to deal with some issues even an aftermarket big bore but this one looks to be oem and is a runner and priced about what the new husqvarna clone saws would be , I think I did well for my first "Big" Husqvarna.
 

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Btw , I obviously got the full wrap west coast kit . The kit was very nice and included alot of stuff for 40$, but theres a metal bracket that I have no idea where it goes? Or if it even fits the 394 and only goes on the 395xp.16243147769747965337927237846190.jpg
 

Woodslasher

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Btw , I obviously got the full wrap west coast kit . The kit was very nice and included alot of stuff for 40$, but theres a metal bracket that I have no idea where it goes? Or if it even fits the 394 and only goes on the 395xp.View attachment 299093
Methinks it protects the big exposed tank spring, but I may be wrong.
 

qurotro

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Btw , I obviously got the full wrap west coast kit . The kit was very nice and included alot of stuff for 40$, but theres a metal bracket that I have no idea where it goes? Or if it even fits the 394 and only goes on the 395xp.View attachment 299093
There's 2 screw holes just at the bottom edge of the oil tank. The third is for the AV mounting buffer nut under the name plate.
 

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Early 394’s don’t even have the holes drilled/tapped for that bracket. Only the later saws had them.View attachment 299192 It’s just a case protector. Imo not needed if you take care of your saws.
Thanks, yeah my 93' doesn't have those holes.
 

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Seems the only thing holding me back from building more of them is the case on the clutch cove side is usually to beat up to use and hard to find.
 

Gord

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How many carcasses do you have?
Not sure, have been cleaning up the shop and of course they are all pulled down but probably could make about 5 or 6, some might become 395's instead but do have more parts as well for them.... Vancouver Island logging community I live I do get a lot of falling saws etc.
 

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Not sure, have been cleaning up the shop and of course they are all pulled down but probably could make about 5 or 6, some might become 395's instead but do have more parts as well for them.... Vancouver Island logging community I live I do get a lot of falling saws etc.
Depending on how you look at it we will probably see Aftermarket cases by the end of the year, so lucky ?
 

PogoInTheWoods

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If it wasn't running so well I wouldn't think twice but man I hate messing with something that ain't broke. Heat is sort of a concern for my area though.

"Remedy" for the infamous vapor lock problem? Nice to have if needed, but as you say, "If it ain't broke..."

Think I'd leave well enough alone until actually experiencing the problem. Then I'd check the tank vent function before tearing the intake apart. I've read more about that being a problem with these saws than any specifically identifiable source of vapor lock
other than running the tank dry under extra hot conditions..., which should tell the operator something right there anyway if it hasn't already melted the piston. Not sure a 'vapor locked' saw should be restarted under those conditions except maybe to cool it back down. That said, there are various approaches to starting a 'vapor locked' saw depending on the saw. And not all 'vapor lock' is actual vapor lock -- depending on the definition applied by the operator.

Sorry to get a little carried away, but I'll take a SWAG that poorly adjusted low jets probably contribute more to hot restart problems than vapor lock. Then there's the coil, and general overheating from a saw being caked with crap, and...,

Yeah, I think I'd check the tank vent first and go from there. LOL
 

huskyboy

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It’s necessary to have that part. That saw will boil the fuel in the carb guaranteed without that partition wall. Think of it as like leaving the winter shutter open in the summertime... all that cylinder heat is going into the airbox. That partition is common to have disintegrated and often times even missing after all those years. Last 262xp I did needed one too.
 
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Gord

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Depending on how you look at it we will probably see Aftermarket cases by the end of the year, so lucky ?
Hopefully,_ I do like the 3 series saws, and worth while bringing them back to life, my own firewood saws are a 372xp Walkerized and about to build another 385 0r 390xp for my backup saw.
 

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I'm probably gonna dive into replacing the divider this weekend, after all it's a pretty good saw and before I get to running the snot out of it I'd feel better knowing it's set up like it's supposed to be. I do agree with Poge though, most of the problems that arise around this saw are intake related from what I've read ,so Ill be taking my time and being careful.
Sometimes it's like fixing old pipes, you repair one joint one to have 3 more break above and below the repair.
Luckily I have seen all the parts including the intake on the interwebs, so if something happens I can replace it.
 

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1993 was 28 years ago, hows that make you feel?
That was my freshman year of college , and probably the last time the fuel line was changed.
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I got the cylinder block peice in and ofcourse it was time for the fuel line and carburetor to be freshened up.
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I also put some tygon around the limiting bolts under the tank.20210626_175740.jpg
 
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