High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

ranchdadmike

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How bad is this?
81d6146546409827bc28f0a22420af6d.jpg



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One more question...what would you guys do with the saw above? Holds vac and pressure fine, just checked compression and it's north of 150#...saw runs well. Would you tear it down and repair/replace p/c or run it?


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867cfb923c6dd52b24defd6d7c96bdbd.jpg
 

wcorey

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You could be fine but I couldn't let that go without taking a look to see if there's even the slightest bit of transfer.
Then while you're in there might as well lightly scotchbrite the cylinder and throw on new cabers.

Then might as well check squish and maybe delete the base gasket.
And while you're there trim a bit off the intake side piston skirt and then on to the exhaust and transfers and then...
 

ranchdadmike

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You could be fine but I couldn't let that go without taking a look to see if there's even the slightest bit of transfer.
Then while you're in there might as well lightly scotchbrite the cylinder and throw on new cabers.

Then might as well check squish and maybe delete the base gasket.
And while you're there trim a bit off the intake side piston skirt and then on to the exhaust and transfers and then...

Which scotchbrite?


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wcorey

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I use grey stuff the autobody guy at work tosses after scuffing body panels before paint, don't know exactly what the scotchbrite
equivelent is. It's pretty fine, not the heavy stiff stuff.
 

John Wargo

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Hey guys I have a 562xp. About 5 years old. Brand new air filter. Shindiawa red armor oil no-e 89 octane@ 32/1. Saw was popping and sputtering after it got hot yesterday. Was still idling fine. Any ideas on what I check out to cure this problem? Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.
 

Fullkip

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Hey guys I have a 562xp. About 5 years old. Brand new air filter. Shindiawa red armor oil no-e 89 octane@ 32/1. Saw was popping and sputtering after it got hot yesterday. Was still idling fine. Any ideas on what I check out to cure this problem? Thanks in advance for any and all assistance.

Have it checked to see if it shows any codes first... AutoTunes don't like 32/1... Pull muffler and check for any scoring..

Fullskip
 

67L36Driver

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335xpt: Initial settings on the carb?

I removed the limiters and got it all screwed up.

1 1/2 on both not working BTW.
 

67L36Driver

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The old Bills saw shop spreadsheet listed:
3.5 H 1.75L
0ec446e13e5fa1d5117f642323211705.jpg

3 1/2 H!!
1 3/4 L!!

Holy cow, no wonder.[emoji15]

That and metering lever set low.

Saw wouldn't run off choke. Needed it almost shut.
 
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lilbenny

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Hello everyone, was thinking about getting my 359 cylinder ported. I installed a 47mm meteor kit and its running alright. Im testing out another muffler mod I just got done, had to cut the muffler open first to get the baffle completely out, just couldnt find any am ones without baffle. If I do get the 359 cylinder ported I want to then block up the two smaller holes I made in the muffler and add another bigger outlet to it on the other side. Im trying to save up a little cash here an there as would really like to get a 562xp here soon sometime, but having this 359 ported has always been something Ive wanted. I was curious to know if having a 47mm meteor cylinder ported would run better than a oem 359 ported cylinder...but whats you all's recommendation for getting the 359 cylinder ported?

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sunfish

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Hello everyone, was thinking about getting my 359 cylinder ported. I installed a 47mm meteor kit and its running alright. Im testing out another muffler mod I just got done, had to cut the muffler open first to get the baffle completely out, just couldnt find any am ones without baffle. If I do get the 359 cylinder ported I want to then block up the two smaller holes I made in the muffler and add another bigger outlet to it on the other side. Im trying to save up a little cash here an there as would really like to get a 562xp here soon sometime, but having this 359 ported has always been something Ive wanted. I was curious to know if having a 47mm meteor cylinder ported would run better than a oem 359 ported cylinder...but whats you all's recommendation for getting the 359 cylinder ported?
Very Nice saw! Looks new. I always stick with the oem cylinder & porting by someone who knows what they are doing is worth the $. Big gains to be had.

Why did you replace the P&C?
 

Wolverine

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Love my 450! I have bigger Husqvarnas, but I always seem to be picking up the 450. Works great for firewood and smaller jobs.
I never really felt that way about the saw. I cut fine but being that I was getting really serious about firewood hoarding, it just didn't perform and handle the way I wanted it to. To this day I'd rather have a 350 with mods.
 

67L36Driver

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FWIW: The 335xpt uses ordinary ball bearings w/seal one side.
cc3e9a285b09bf01987c97d722a67473.jpg

At least the 'boot' is good.

Edit: the rubber bearing cup has a lip seal. Bearing plus cup is $40 a side.[emoji37]

Yikes!
 
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ranchdadmike

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FWIW: The 335xpt uses ordinary ball bearings w/seal one side.
cc3e9a285b09bf01987c97d722a67473.jpg

At least the 'boot' is good.

Edit: the rubber bearing cup has a lip seal. Bearing plus cup is $40 a side.[emoji37]

Yikes!

And oh so fun to take apart and reassemble [emoji23]
 

Tor R

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FWIW: The 335xpt uses ordinary ball bearings w/seal one side.
cc3e9a285b09bf01987c97d722a67473.jpg

At least the 'boot' is good.

Edit: the rubber bearing cup has a lip seal. Bearing plus cup is $40 a side.[emoji37]

Yikes!
what dimension do the bearing has?
 

Griffdog

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I spose I am pretty lucky in my collection I have a 444se, 162, 266se, 262xp, 181se, 350, 480cd, 372xp and a Jonsered 2071 for good measure. When push comes to shove I just take the Johnny and either the 350 or the 262. 181 is a lot of fun. Should admit I am actually a Dolmar bloke.....IMG_2942.JPG[/ATTACH] IMG_2457.JPG
 

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