HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

[Sloughfoot]

No base gasket was:
106 ex
Transfers open 123
Intake 74
Thought to take 20/30 thou of both base and squish and finish exhaust at 104
Put transfers back to 17 BD
Widen intake a hair.
Good bad or ugly?

Transfers may be better where they're at after you raise exhaust to 104. Were mine, I'd run it that way before putting them back and see.
I'd most definitely advance timing with the base cut. Probably lower intake a couple degrees too.

 

[Shane¹]

Hello All.
Rebuilding a 357xp now with intention to port.
With no base gasket squish is 20 tho.
Whats reccomenation on amont to machine on this model?
Was thinking to take 30 tho of both base and squish or is this excessive?
Cheers

These are the numbers Randy suggested I use and I would trust his numbers. Hope it was ok to share those @Mastermind

.035 from the squish, .032 from the base. No base gasket.
Ex: 100
Tr: 120
In: 83
Ex port width 1.410"
Advance ignition timing.

 

[Sloughfoot]

These are the numbers Randy suggested I use and I would trust his numbers. Hope it was ok to share those @Mastermind

.035 from the squish, .032 from the base. No base gasket.
Ex: 100
Tr: 120
In: 83
Ex port width 1.410"
Advance ignition timing.

This is all you need to know. May look like an extreme change to intake and blowdown, but know it isn't. Considering the source, these are work saw numbers not race saw.

 

[NZsaws]

Thanks guys! I'll work on something close.
These are some of the most important decisions a man makes in his life I'm sure.
One degree could be fatal.

 

[eric4]

How lucky am I, to have snagged a 372xp and 395xp which looked quite clean and complete...

Just to find (at least) 8 stripped bolts in the cases. The 372 had all four recoil bolts stripped or jammed with a broken screw. My 395 case had lag bolts ran into the top cover, and a stripped screw that holds the air tunnel behind the flywheel. Of course none of these problems were mentioned in the listing

Some of these with blocked holes and screws, are near impossible to drill out. The broken off screws are hard as hell, and have my drill bits skating atop.

My plan is to fill them with JB weld, and then helicoil them to the proper thread. Wish me luck!

 

[SimonHS]

How lucky am I, to have snagged a 372xp and 395xp which looked quite clean and complete...

Just to find (at least) 8 stripped bolts in the cases. The 372 had all four recoil bolts stripped or jammed with a broken screw. My 395 case had lag bolts ran into the top cover, and a stripped screw that holds the air tunnel behind the flywheel. Of course none of these problems were mentioned in the listing

Some of these with blocked holes and screws, are near impossible to drill out. The broken off screws are hard as hell, and have my drill bits skating atop.

My plan is to fill them with JB weld, and then helicoil them to the proper thread. Wish me luck!

It helps if you can get the broken bolts square under a drill press. And use a deep centre punch mark. These two things stop the drill bit skating about. Then, if you can run your drill anticlockwise, you need short left-hand drill bits. If you are lucky these work like extractors, and sometimes will rotate the broken bolts out.

 

[eric4]

It helps if you can get the broken bolts square under a drill press. And use a deep centre punch mark. These two things stop the drill bit skating about. Then, if you can run your drill anticlockwise, you need short left-hand drill bits. If you are lucky these work like extractors, and sometimes will rotate the broken bolts out.

Thanks for the recommendation! My current left hand bits I've been using are quite cheap, so I've got some nice cobalt ones showing up today.

 

[SimonHS]

Another thing to try is heating the broken bolt with a soldering iron. A few heating/cooling cycles might help loosen things. To get them really hot, without damaging the case, you can heat a steel rod with a gas torch and then put the hot end of the rod on the bolt.