Husqvarna 592xp woes and fixes

[jacob j.]

FOIL DUCT TAPE? temporary fix?

I seen people putting cardboard over their radiators in Alaska. Probably works for chainsaws until it gets too wet.

 

[Woodtroll]

I just got off the phone with a dealer near me and he confirmed two things, one the new part number is the latest, which we knew and the "winter" version is on back order till May and it does also fit the standard non-G model. So that one may be hard to get if one wants one.

The winter part is not available until May... Only the Southern Hemisphere folks will appreciate that irony.

 

[Reloaderguy]

View attachment 481837
Last paragraph- second line - LAST WORD. Seems like the Chinese are composing Huskies DESTRUCTION MANUAL.
Shouldn't "RESTORED" be swapped out for "REMOVED"?

The manuals are translated to English.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I seen people putting cardboard over their radiators in Alaska. Probably works for chainsaws until it gets too wet.

In this frigid sht hole, cardboard is not enough to keep the cold out of the engine bay. Back in 2017 when I was still kinda green to Interior Alaska living, I thought cardboard was sufficient, in front of my radiator on my old dodge truck.

Back then, I was doing 14 consecutive 12 hr shifts (2 weeks on 2 weeks off) on the Trans Alaska Pipeline. After finishing my rotation, the temperature dropped to 57 below zero. My coolant looked like a green slushy. I wanted to get the fk outta there and drive south to better temps for my 2 weeks off. Truck was plugged in at a bunk house all night and still, barely cranked over.

After a couple hrs of driving, I only made it as far as Salcha. My battery was completely drained. An air intake grid heater on the cummins diesel stayed on permanently and drained the battery. The alternator couldn't keep up. Drove with no head lights all the way to North Pole. Emergency pit stop at a cabin rental, I plugged the truck in overnight. I ended up fastening a tarp over the entire grill. The intake grid heater stayed off for the rest of the 6 hour drive south.

In this hard cold, a bib covering the entire grill is a must, carboard being insufficient.

Same deal with chainsaws. The bottom 2/3 of the flywheel fins are always blocked to keep the saw warm. All 592 xp's and many other husq models sent up here to Alaska have that blue plastic bib included in the box as standard equipment.

Even generators get full bibs round my home stead.

If u dont have a bib, still purdy easy to tape off the flywheel vents. A little red bottle de-icer sure is handy too! Good stuff to free iced-up parts!

I personally think strato saws run like sht in the 30 below zero ambient temps i still cut in. I do have a heated 2172 that does ok. Even then, the carb heater doesnt work very well on the strato air part of the carb. Only the air fuel side.

 

[bwalker]

In this frigid sht hole, cardboard is not enough to keep the cold out of the engine bay. Back in 2017 when I was still kinda green to Interior Alaska living, I thought cardboard was sufficient, in front of my radiator on my old dodge truck.

Back then, I was doing 14 consecutive 12 hr shifts (2 weeks on 2 weeks off) on the Trans Alaska Pipeline. After finishing my rotation, the temperature dropped to 57 below zero. My coolant looked like a green slushy. I wanted to get the fk outta there and drive south to better temps for my 2 weeks off. Truck was plugged in at a bunk house all night and still, barely cranked over.

After a couple hrs of driving, I only made it as far as Salcha. My battery was completely drained. An air intake grid heater on the cummins diesel stayed on permanently and drained the battery. The alternator couldn't keep up. Drove with no head lights all the way to North Pole. Emergency pit stop at a cabin rental, I plugged the truck in overnight. I ended up fastening a tarp over the entire grill. The intake grid heater stayed off for the rest of the 6 hour drive south.

In this hard cold, a bib covering the entire grill is a must, carboard being insufficient.

Same deal with chainsaws. The bottom 2/3 of the flywheel fins are always blocked to keep the saw warm. All 592 xp's and many other husq models sent up here to Alaska have that blue plastic bib included in the box as standard equipment.

Even generators get full bibs round my home stead.

If u dont have a bib, still purdy easy to tape off the flywheel vents. A little red bottle de-icer sure is handy too! Good stuff to free iced-up parts!

I personally think strato saws run like sht in the 30 below zero ambient temps i still cut in. I do have a heated 2172 that does ok. Even then, the carb heater doesnt work very well on the strato air part of the carb. Only the air fuel side.


View attachment 481838
View attachment 481839

I've dealt with -20 quit often here in MT. I've seen -30 a couple times, but no colder.
-57 is ridiculous! I guess there is a reason the state pays you to live in Alaska.

 

[Seachaser]

I read here and on the other site that Loctite 401 can be used to repair small cracks in the boot. Anyone ever tried it for a temporary fix?

 

[bwalker]

I read here and on the other site that Loctite 401 can be used to repair small cracks in the boot. Anyone ever tried it for a temporary fix?

Don't do it.

 

[Tor R]

I read here and on the other site that Loctite 401 can be used to repair small cracks in the boot. Anyone ever tried it for a temporary fix?

I wouldn't skimp on a part that costs as little as a boot.
After all, a 592 is an expensive chainsaw to gamble with.

 

[Stump Shot]

I read here and on the other site that Loctite 401 can be used to repair small cracks in the boot. Anyone ever tried it for a temporary fix?

Doesn't sound like a good way to make a person happy. Better to get the new and improved part installed, so as not to have a repeat, IMO.

 

[EFSM]

I wouldn't skimp on a part that costs as little as a boot.
After all, a 592 is an expensive chainsaw to gamble with.

Yep, I’d agree if the boot was actually cheap. I don’t consider 120 to be anywhere close to cheap for a piece of rubber.

 

[Stump Shot]

Yep, I’d agree if the boot was actually cheap. I don’t consider 120 to be anywhere close to cheap for a piece of rubber.

It's the entire intake, fully assembled. Yeah, it's a bit spendy but, so is a new bottom and top end.

 

[bwalker]

It's the entire intake, fully assembled. Yeah, it's a bit spendy but, so is a new bottom and top end.

Its sort of like stepping over a dollar to pick uo a dime. Trying to save money on something that could potentially causes a seizure or worse is ridiculous IMO.

 

[Stump Shot]

 

[Tor R]

Yep, I’d agree if the boot was actually cheap. I don’t consider 120 to be anywhere close to cheap for a piece of rubber.

I agree that it's a lot of money for a boot, Steve says it's a complete boot though.
I look at it in comparison to a top end kit, and to the value of a 592, and then I feel the parts cost of a boot is small compared to the other.
But $120 is actually a lot of money now, compared to prices just a few years ago.

Finally, when I try to build or repair I always try to build to the highest standard I can, and mostly original parts. There is something called retaining value

 

[Stump Shot]

I agree that it's a lot of money for a boot, Steve says it's a complete boot though.
I look at it in comparison to a top end kit, and to the value of a 592, and then I feel the parts cost of a boot is small compared to the other.
But $120 is actually a lot of money now, compared to prices just a few years ago.

Finally, when I try to build or repair I always try to build to the highest standard I can, and mostly original parts. There is something called retaining value

This is what you get for the money.