Husqvarna 576xp - FixerUpper

[Canadian farm boy]

I’m gonna say it just because I haven’t seen it mentioned yet.
Most chainsaw clutches are left hand thread.

 

[Duce]

I’m gonna say it just because I haven’t seen it mentioned yet.
Most chainsaw clutches are left hand thread.

You know that one is. As stated before, would split that case, check for loose clutch side bearing pocket, new bearings, seals and use sleeve locker on bearings. If going to go that far, go all the way. It’s your saw, do as you please.,

 

[hacskaroly]

I’m gonna say it just because I haven’t seen it mentioned yet.
Most chainsaw clutches are left hand thread.

Luckily the clutch has the word "Off" with and arrow to indicate which way it needs to come off...someone made it idiot proof for me
Its on there pretty good as it won't budge off immobilizing the piston and trying to jolt it off with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer.

You know that one is. As stated before, would split that case, check for loose clutch side bearing pocket, new bearings, seals and use sleeve locker on bearings. If going to go that far, go all the way. It’s your saw, do as you please.,

If it was my saw I would split the case and check everything, actually doing that right now with a Husky 272 (first one split open). This is not my saw, its one from work that was tossed in the "junk" pile. I told them if they can get me a piston and cylinder I can get it going again. Hopefully they will come through soon as I am close to getting this thing all cleaned up and back together.

 

[hacskaroly]

Next up is cleaning the fuel tank. First up is taking apart most everything that can come apart.


With it apart, makes it much easier to clean.


Everything all back together.

 

[hacskaroly]

Time for the clutch cover, its seen some abuse. I am not actually sure if this ones goes to this saw, it was in the parts pile and it fit over the bar studs.




Everything removed for cleaning:


All clean:


I need to source a chip deflector and the small plastic piece that fits on the end of the tensioner screw. All back together now.

 

[hacskaroly]

The biggest chore so far is to clean the entire exterior of the body. I can't believe how many crevasses there are.

 

[hacskaroly]

While cleaning the body, I decided to give removing the clutch another try. With some recommendations, I grabbed what tools I had, an adjustable wrench, long screw driver and a cheater bar. I got the springs out of the clutch and was able to put the adjustable wrench around one of the arms of the clutch, then fit the screw driver through the loop on the end of the wrench and then put the cheater bar on the screwdriver. While bracing the chainsaw body, I held the wrench in place and gave a few tugs on the cheater bar and finally freed the clutch. It came off which allowed me to also remove the oiler to clean
the area.


I was glad to get the clutch off to clean everything, it would have bothered me to have not been able to clean under the clutch.

 

[hacskaroly]

The body is now about 95% clean, I can't figure out an easy way to get the four cover retaining clips off without breaking them. I tried to pinch the plastic with needle nose pliers and forceps, but didn't have any luck. With them still in the case, its hard to get a q-tip around them. I still need to clean out the lower portion where the crank shaft is, there is some debris on the bottom.




I am happy with the progress so far, the last major thing to clean will be the top cover, once that is done, I will start putting everything back together!

 

[Duce]

While cleaning the body, I decided to give removing the clutch another try. With some recommendations, I grabbed what tools I had, an adjustable wrench, long screw driver and a cheater bar. I got the springs out of the clutch and was able to put the adjustable wrench around one of the arms of the clutch, then fit the screw driver through the loop on the end of the wrench and then put the cheater bar on the screwdriver. While bracing the chainsaw body, I held the wrench in place and gave a few tugs on the cheater bar and finally freed the clutch. It came off which allowed me to also remove the oiler to clean
the area.
View attachment 404494View attachment 404495View attachment 404496View attachment 404497

I was glad to get the clutch off to clean everything, it would have bothered me to have not been able to clean under the clutch.
View attachment 404498

Are you going to vacuum check that saw, before you start it?

 

[hacskaroly]

Are you going to vacuum check that saw, before you start it?

Yes, after beating on it I should just to make sure I didn't induce a problem.

 

[Maxchaos]

Sorry to hijack but,i'm doing a 576 like your,looking at the parts list the new cylinder say FROM sn2013 while mine is 2009,anyone know the differences? Will the new cylinder 575257406 work on my saw? Have they changed the rod or the cylinder holes size?

 

[beaglebriar]

Sorry to hijack but,i'm doing a 576 like your,looking at the parts list the new cylinder say FROM sn2013 while mine is 2009,anyone know the differences? Will the new cylinder 575257406 work on my saw? Have they changed the rod or the cylinder holes size?

If you have a 576 chassis that cylinder will work.

 

[hacskaroly]

Sorry to hijack but,i'm doing a 576 like your

No worries, glad to have you jump in! I was trying to look up an answer, but @beaglebriar beat me to it!

 

[Maxchaos]

Thanks you guys,so fast! Now need to find a good price here in Europe,the OEM P&C costs 350$

 

[hacskaroly]

Now need to find a good price here in Europe,the OEM P&C costs 350$

Same thing here....the OEM stuff for both Stihl and Husqvarna are typically $300+. There are other options that might be more reasonable, though not sure how much shipping from US to Italy will be (if a company does it), but here is a reasonably priced aftermarket piston and cylinder kit sold by Traverse Creek - THE DUKE'S PISTON AND CYLINDER KIT FITS HUSQVARNA 576XP 51MM 575 25 74-06 . Priced at just under $100 for cylinder, piston and rings, from those that have purchased from there I have only heard good things. This is the setup I am eye-balling when my work gives me the go-ahead.

 

[Maxchaos]

Same thing here....the OEM stuff for both Stihl and Husqvarna are typically $300+. There are other options that might be more reasonable, though not sure how much shipping from US to Italy will be (if a company does it), but here is a reasonably priced aftermarket piston and cylinder kit sold by Traverse Creek - THE DUKE'S PISTON AND CYLINDER KIT FITS HUSQVARNA 576XP 51MM 575 25 74-06 . Priced at just under $100 for cylinder, piston and rings, from those that have purchased from there I have only heard good things. This is the setup I am eye-balling when my work gives me the go-ahead.

Here in Italy i can only find Hyway kits for that kind of price,I've seen the Dukes kit but don't know how they perform. Hyway seems fine for 130$ shipped to my door.
First I need to fix the crap bearing pocket (check my thread) then I will see what to do.

 

[hacskaroly]

First I need to fix the crap bearing pocket (check my thread) then I will see what to do.

Yeah, looking at that picture, its looking really rough.

 

[jr27236]

I think you are right.

I bought a guy's brand new straight gassed 576xp a little while back. The cylinder was a mess on the exhaust side of course. I cleaned it up as best I could leaving a deep score in the wall. I dropped a free golf piston in it and this is one of my best saws to date that I will never part with. This thing is a absolute screaming animal. I would do the same to that saw.

 

[Maxchaos]

Updated: the bearing was put with Loctite 638,cured for 2 week now,pocket was pitted and bearing got in with a bit of hammering,later this week I will try to close It and see if it hold the pressure of the crankshaft while closing the 2 case.
If It don't move,we are good to go!
Btw this saw it's wrecked by dome kind of corrosive Wood,clutch case it's a mess,you Will see later