I forgot to include something about a 550XP. I built a 550 that was thrashed and it turned out pretty good.
I advanced the timing, cut the squish, muff modded it and mild porting. I didn't cut the base--no lathe.
If you want to solve/help the 550's heat problems, you gotta cater to what causes them. I believe it stems from the transfers.
The transfer lowers are ducted right around the exhaust outlet. Think about that for a minute....
A normal cylinder dissipates heat via the fins, whereas Husky 5-series dissipates directly through the transfer ports.
Essentially, you are getting the reverse effect of a radiator on a car. I theorize this is why the issue is a hot start problem.
What to do about it? It can't be solved, but it can be helped. As Scott said, simple mods are not going to make a difference in heat retention.
The problem is heat retention in the wrong places. I wouldn't worry about additional mods, until you've remedied the heat soaking issues.
IMO, the best mod to help is muffler mod. The more heat you get away from the cylinder, the better.
Also, eliminating the primer bulb seems to help. And depending on your model, mod the cover to allow additional flow.
Here is how I start to mod a 5-series Husky muffler. I don't think just poking a few holes in the diverter plate is enough.
I get rid of it completely and add another outlet.
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