What mm is the bore.
If you're patient enough to ship it to me, and I have the right size mandrel, I'll take .010 off the base for ya-no charge.
I'm on Long Island. Betcha it costs you under $15 to ship both ways.
Have fun buddy!!I've been given the chance to port a very clean and cared for 359. I bought this saw for my father in law in 08' for giving us a place to live for a month after I separated from active duty. In light of my recent success with porting my own saws (and a little bit of heckling) he gave me the green light to get into it.
Here's my plan:
1) degree the ports with the base gasket installed. I've always been curious how much .020 changes port timing.
2) delete the gasket, then raise the transfers back to pre-delete height. Also remove excess (restrictive) material from the transfer runners.
3) raise the exhaust 3 to 5° and widen to 65% of bore. Target blowdown 16 - 20°.
4) square up the intake and time it to between 73 and 77°. Again, this will vary based on what I find the port to be at after the gasket is gone. I usually go another 3° from where it is after the gasket delete.
5) advance ignition timing by 1/4 width of the key. I have done this to every saw I have ported and I like how the throttle response improves.
6) replace the EPA muffler with a 'Murica muffler, muffler mod and port match the muffler, gasket and exhaust passage.
I'm excited to get into this saw as I always hear how well they respond to porting. Just hope I still like my ported 357xp after I get this one done...lol! I'll be getting started tomorrow evening. What do you guys think?View attachment 31038
@Red97 that's one of the deflectors I got from you. Looks real good!
Nice!!Muffler mod complete and the saw is ready for work. Took it back up to him and tuned it on his log pile. I left it tuned rich at 13.8k no load and it was 4 stroking nicely if I lifted it in the cut. Told him that his saw is going to be getting another round of work after wood is done and he laughed and said ok....more to follow on this thread.
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I built one quite a few Yeats back after doing a lot of reading of a build that timberwolf did on a 359. If you swap the piston wrist pin from an 066 it's the same size with less weight. Also I took mine really wide on exhaust and intake went almost 33mm wide and about 31 on intake dropped base gasket, lowered intake about .005 and raised exhaust about .020 and put on a non cat muffler port matched and opened it up after all of it the saw is still at about 170 lbs compression and pulls really well still torquey but really screams if you let it build some rpm's ran it with a ms 361 that ed heard built and with the same chain mine was only .2 seconds behind in a 15inch piece of poplar. Never did degree the saw or touch transfers still have it after about 20-30 gallons of gas she is still going strong.
Ed is one of the best there is. I have run a few of his saws. I learned mostly from reading and research and from a few other sites no longer around the depth of knowledge was amazing. Check out the stock looking 359 that timberwolf built I think the vid may still be on YouTube it was wild! Mine wouldn't hold a candle to it.
That's good to know I've been on there a couple times but spend a lot of time working and when I'm not I paltry wig saws or guns.
Has anybody seen or heard from timberwolf? I know I haven't seen him on as for a couple of years.
Since this thread is old I don't think a question will derail it. I have a old 357xp that got smoked cutting big wood in high temps, I put a 359 c/p on as it was $100 cheaper. Now it needs more compression. Which way to go? 357 or 9 top? I want to five it some extra zip. ThanksHaven't saw him around for some time heck of a saw builder
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New OEM only the 357 jug is available now.Since this thread is old I don't think a question will derail it. I have a old 357xp that got smoked cutting big wood in high temps, I put a 359 c/p on as it was $100 cheaper. Now it needs more compression. Which way to go? 357 or 9 top? I want to five it some extra zip. Thanks