Husqvarna 350 Sealant

[decableguy2000]

Which sealant to use to seal the riser to the case. The one I'm working on is leaking where corners meet the seals. To many choices, with as many opinions.

OEM is Dow 7091 ($40 a tube, out of my budget)
Motoseal (have some)
Threebond 1184 (not sure I can get locale)
Hondabond 4 (should be able to get in the AM at the Honda shop)
Loctite 518 or 515 ( have heard of mixed results)
Dirko HT ( is it the same as Hondabond HT?)

 

[Onan18]

If you already have Motoseal roll with that. I use Hondabond HT personally, don't care for the 4 at all.

 

[Termitebuffet]

Motoseal , clean surfaces well

 

[Mattyo]

loctite 515 and 518 don't work. they don't stick to plastic. it is a GREAT sealant for the intake boot, but not for the riser

1184 is what I'm using now.

don't know about the others

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Yamabond 4 = 1184
It’s all I’ve used on clam shells.
No issues.

Motoseal should be fine

 

[Tor R]

Dow Corning 7091, #503 26 72 01, paid 24$ for the tube.
I use it on 340/345/350, 550 head gasket and 346/357 boot.

 

[Jon1212]

Dow Corning 7091, #503 26 72 01, paid 24$ for the tube.
I use it on 340/345/350, 550 head gasket and 346/357 boot.

I sent you a message on FHC.

 

[Tor R]

I sent you a message on FHC.

wow, you did?
Did I do anything wrong?
I'll lurk over and read it

 

[earlthegoat2]

I am in the minority of folks who prefer Dirko HT. It is $15 at my dealer and so far it has proven to be the best at lasting in the tube through times that I do not use it. Yamabond was the worst by far and I was similarly unimpressed by Motoseal.

Yamabond and Motoseal did work they just cured up in the tube when I put them away for a few weeks.

All that said, I would probably try not use it for a Husky on GP since it is OEM Stihl.

 

[huskihl]

I had a tube of motoseal for over a year and it never went bad. The last use was identical to the 1st

 

[Magic_Man]

I am in the minority of folks who prefer Dirko HT. It is $15 at my dealer and so far it has proven to be the best at lasting in the tube through times that I do not use it. Yamabond was the worst by far and I was similarly unimpressed by Motoseal.

Yamabond and Motoseal did work they just cured up in the tube when I put them away for a few weeks.

All that said, I would probably try not use it for a Husky on GP since it is OEM Stihl.

I had a tube of motoseal for over a year and it never went bad. The last use was identical to the 1st

I have had a tube of yamabond for almost two years. Still works just fine, I always make sure I seal it up when I'm done. Occasionally I do have to pull I dried up piece out of the tip but the rest of the tube is fine once cleared.

 

[Wolverine]

I've used Motoseal on multiple tree fiddy's with a perfect success rate.

 

[Czed]

Motoseal again here.
Dozens of saw's never an issue.
6.04 last tube i bought.

 

[decableguy2000]

What's the best way to clean up the old sealant off the case? I figured a wire brush on the riser. Currently hosing off the crud now.

 

[huskihl]

If it had motoseal on it, there wont be much left over. I scrape it lightly with a screwdriver or razor blade and wipe it clean with brake cleaner

 

[Wolverine]

Brake cleaner and a rag.

 

[Tor R]

What's the best way to clean up the old sealant off the case? I figured a wire brush on the riser. Currently hosing off the crud now.

I clean (screw driver then brakecleaner or aceton), then sanding the plastic area where I gone put some sealant on, another round cleaning.

When I worked as car painter, later industrial painter, friction between the layers was super important (except a stable hand ) and of course correct layer tickness.

 

[decableguy2000]

brake cleaner applied, scrubbed, scuffed up wit a scotchbrite, cleaned again, and motosealed up. Will wait until the morning before I pressure and vacuum test again.

 

[decableguy2000]

It was a no-go. Leaking at the corners. Don't think I had enough sealant there. May set this project in a milk crate until I can find a 346/351/353 case.

 

[Wood Doctor]

It was a no-go. Leaking at the corners. Don't think I had enough sealant there. May set this project in a milk crate until I can find a 346/351/353 case.

I note that "Riser" is not listed in the Husqvarna 350 or 353 IPL or Shop Manual. I thought I would call that to your attention. Anybody know why it is not considered a part? My guess is that Husqvarna doesn't want anyone working with it.

I have a 350 that may be suffering because of what OP describes here. I'm getting a 150 psi compression reading after a top end rebuild, and it will sometimes run for three seconds. Then it drops dead and cannot be made to fire again. Decableguy2000 and I may be in the same boat.

I suppose we could save these beasts for parts in a milk crate. We may have no choice.