Husqvarna 350 comparison video with cut times!

[paragonbuilder]

The goal of the OP was reached. That an aftermarket jug can be made as strong as oem. But there are inconsistencies and even changes in them. Unless you buy the cheapest jug you can find, which made less power, it's probably best to buy oem.


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[BGE541]

Here is one rattler did some machine work on and I did a little grinding.

 

[BGE541]

The goal of the OP was reached. That an aftermarket jug can be made as strong as oem. But there are inconsistencies and even changes in them. Unless you buy the cheapest jug you can find, which made less power, it's probably best to buy oem.


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Cylinder aside I guess I would shoot for success in a "in the wood" test over a newly released and adjusted dyno result. No disrespect to the OP but I would hope consistent, in wood results over stock could be reached. Seems like he (and this thread) put a lot of time into the 350 and it all kinda just stopped in its tracks.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Cylinder aside I guess I would shoot for success in a "in the wood" test over a newly released and adjusted dyno result. No disrespect to the OP but I would hope consistent, in wood results over stock could be reached. Seems like he (and this thread) put a lot of time into the 350 and it all kinda just stopped in its tracks.

Beginning of the thread was the in the wood comparison. His hyway cylinder was stronger by a small margin than the oem jug on both the wood test and the Dyno test.
This aftermarket jug is NLA. It is different now. So for consistent results I recommend oem. Especially when it is virtually the same price as the hyway.


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[paragonbuilder]

Here is one rattler did some machine work on and I did a little grinding.

Looks like a runner. Good job!


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[BGE541]

Beginning of the thread was the in the wood comparison. His hyway cylinder was stronger by a small margin than the oem jug on both the wood test and the Dyno test.
This aftermarket jug is NLA. It is different now. So for consistent results I recommend oem. Especially when it is virtually the same price as the hyway.


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Well I'm glad the OP is happy with it!

 

[BGE541]

Looks like a runner. Good job!


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Thank you.

 

[BGE541]

@Landmark you get that 550 going? Still doing a 350 project?

 

[Mattyo]

What more would you like to see?

 

[MustangMike]

The 372!!!!

 

[Landmark]

@Landmark you get that 550 going? Still doing a 350 project?

Hope to finish the 350 for the guy and run it this weekend. Had to wait on parts. Got a p/c on the way for the 550. I am really looking forward to getting to it. Your 350 looks strong.

 

[BGE541]

Hope to finish the 350 for the guy and run it this weekend. Had to wait on parts. Got a p/c on the way for the 550. I am really looking forward to getting to it. Your 350 looks strong.

Thank you I'm liking your 550 project.

 

[BGE541]

What more would you like to see?

Was wondering if there was gonna be a follow up, in wood test or see why the ported saws were just neck and neck with the OEM. I get some AM can be sub par but the data collected at the in wood test in confusing at least. I bet you can tear a 350 down in your sleep now!

 

[Mattyo]

The dyno is the ultimate equalizer. It gives us a much clearer picture / comparison between saws without having to worry about wood, chains, fuel, the position of the moon etc. I'm not throwing out the in wood testing, but the dyno results outrank the in wood results.

As far as I can see, oem vs am cylinders, the am's aren't THAT far behind after they have been ported.... and my conclusion to the test was that if you are going to cut squishband, then oem is the way to go... mainly because I don't like that lip of plating anyway. If you are not going to cut squish, then I can see prefering the hyway....very pretty plating all the way up to the top of the combustion chamber. So its either these two, or a $40 p&c from ebay if you are being super cheap.

I do think the intake tract has a significant effect on the power (according to Brad's in -wood tests ...8% faster), so going with a 359 intake is likely to yield significant gains.

another easy way to get gains, especially based on the dyno graphs is to open the muffler significantly... it helps.

I can tear one down pretty quick... yes

 

[Tor R]

I do think the intake tract has a significant effect on the power (according to Brad's in -wood tests ...8% faster), so going with a 359 intake is likely to yield significant gains.

I somehow felt that the 346 intake bellow matches 346 jug best compared to 359 intake bellow.
I know Randy use 346 intake bellow without the ring for the same reason.
I use the big 357/359 carbs even on my stock 346oe's, the only side effect I have is that they are damn tricky to adjust since they are kinda over dimension to the OE, but throttle respons is worth it.
Ported, it's nothing to think about, thats where they shine, but it's pointless to trow an EL-42 or HDA-199 on an 346 without putting 357/359 airfilter & holder on them.

Update us how your projects go, your experience with bigger carb, we are all here to learn from others experience

 

[idiotwithasaw]

What is the point of the ring in the 346 boot, is it for support or atomization. I ask because I'm in the process of doing this mod to mine.

 

[idiotwithasaw]

What I'm getting at am I better served using the 359 boot, or will the 346 boot suffice.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

IDK about the boot, but I think you definitely want to use the 357/9 air filter. (more filter area)

 

[idiotwithasaw]

Could someone modify a 350 filter to give it more surface area. Such as frogskinz or something similar on 5he back

 

[Tor R]

What is the point of the ring in the 346 boot, is it for support or atomization. I ask because I'm in the process of doing this mod to mine.

the only reason I see with the ring is to prevent the rubber to grow outside it's dimension when you torque the carb to the flange...without the ring the dimension on 346 boot is very close to 357/359 with the ring.
357/359 boot doesnt fit so well on 346 intake, if you have both 346 and 357 boot in your hands and try you will see it easily.
If you go for the bigger carb you also want to have the 357/359 airfilter holder due bigger inner dimension + airfilter.
All those nice things are bolt on, the only modd you may have to do is to check and modd the area around the choke/kill switch. Personally I used a razor and cut out a couple mm's in the carb floor plastic so the airfilterholder have a bit to live in.