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Husqvarna 350 Sealant

Tor R

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Bearing cap 503 88 59-01, 537 32 40-01 NLA
not only in Norway then :( I just miss one to do my 350 project, on the other side, I'm not fond in those plastic saws anyway
 

DrewUth

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Does anyone use Ultra-Grey? I use it for just about everything, works great.
 

cus_deluxe

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Ive used loctite 518 on everything ive done. I did a few 345/350s a couple years ago and theyre all still running fine for the tree service they went back to.
 

decableguy2000

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Still can't this thing to seal up. I replaced the seals and bearings with Cross performance from our host. Applied Motoseal to the case and the bearing cup and let set up a few minutes and re-assembled. Let it sit overnight. Finished putting the top end together and tested. It held vacuum fine. Pressure tested had issues. First off I had to rebuild my Mityvac (wouldn't build pressure over 5psi). Found the intake was leaking a little( had to tighten up the 390 clamp). Still has some leak down, it is with in the spec of the manual about 5-6 Kpa in the 30 sec test. As best as I can tell, it is leaking in front of the saw and not at the bearing corners now.
So run it to dies?
Start over with motoseal again
Start over with Dirko? or Hondabond
Or keep looking for 346/351/353 case
 

decableguy2000

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Case is good as far as I see. No muffler burn through.
 

Wolverine

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Still can't this thing to seal up. I replaced the seals and bearings with Cross performance from our host. Applied Motoseal to the case and the bearing cup and let set up a few minutes and re-assembled. Let it sit overnight. Finished putting the top end together and tested. It held vacuum fine. Pressure tested had issues. First off I had to rebuild my Mityvac (wouldn't build pressure over 5psi). Found the intake was leaking a little( had to tighten up the 390 clamp). Still has some leak down, it is with in the spec of the manual about 5-6 Kpa in the 30 sec test. As best as I can tell, it is leaking in front of the saw and not at the bearing corners now.
So run it to dies?
Start over with motoseal again
Start over with Dirko? or Hondabond
Or keep looking for 346/351/353 case
Hondabond and Motoseal are so similar I can't tell a difference. I use a lot of Honda @ work and here at home I use Moto. Neither have failed me yet.
 

decableguy2000

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Dunk it .....see where bubbles r coming out

I did, looks like the front of the bearing cap. I'm going to have to make a cover plate, as it is hard to see withe muffler in the way using the rubber wedges.
 

decableguy2000

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Some how I manged to misplace the ground strap that connects the coil to the case bolts as well.
Go figure
 

Mattyo

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did you use 1184 and let it tack up a bit before you stuck the surfaces together? I assume motoseal / hondabond is similar.

and yes, block sand mating surfaces might help.

also, you might have a case that is cooked. if that case heats up too much, you could warp it, and then it'll never seal.
 

Mattyo

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the whole thing is a pain, i had a 372 apart 4x once. very frustrating
 

Mattyo

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i'd try to figure out exactly where its leaking fist.

also, you can check the plastic baseplate with a straightedge to see if anything is warped there.

let that goop tack up first before putting the halves together, and make sure nothing interferes with the cap seating all the way around with good squeezout
 

decableguy2000

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Pretty sure the case is flat, using a Saratte protractor for my straight edge I can not slide a .oo15 feeler under it. Bearing cap appears to be the same. Check the pictures to see if I doing it wrong. I'm thinking sealant issue or clamping force. It has the coarse thread screws.
20171222_121001[1].jpg 20171222_121012[1].jpg 20171222_121038[1].jpg 20171222_121137[1].jpg 20171222_121127_001[1].jpg
 

Mattyo

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should seal fine in that case... thin layer both surfaces, let it tack up before you put them together. blue loctite on the coarse thread base screws for sure
 
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