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How to square file

DucTruckin379

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This is my first shot at this. Trying for a work chain, not a racer. Still need to clean the gullet up... It's hard to tell, but there's about 5deg of angle on the side plate. Shooting for less grabby and longer lasting. Is that an ok angle? Please, let me know if I need to change something, I'm only half way done at this point...
Oh, and I need to thank all y'all for this site. I've lurked and learned tons...
So, Thank You!
 
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mettee

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View attachment 346235
This is my first shot at this. Trying for a work chain, not a racer. Still need to clean the gullet up... It's hard to tell, but there's about 5deg of angle on the side plate. Shooting for less grabby and longer lasting. Is that an ok angle? Please, let me know if I need to change something, I'm only half way done at this point...
Oh, and I need to thank all y'all for this site. I've lurked and learned tons...
So, Thank You!


Looks dam good
 

Squareground3691

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View attachment 346235
This is my first shot at this. Trying for a work chain, not a racer. Still need to clean the gullet up... It's hard to tell, but there's about 5deg of angle on the side plate. Shooting for less grabby and longer lasting. Is that an ok angle? Please, let me know if I need to change something, I'm only half way done at this point...
Oh, and I need to thank all y'all for this site. I've lurked and learned tons...
So, Thank You!
Nice job , yea just don’t thin out top plate to much and side plate either straight up or 5 degrees back is a good angle, but ur on your way good job
 

SOS Ridgerider

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View attachment 346235
This is my first shot at this. Trying for a work chain, not a racer. Still need to clean the gullet up... It's hard to tell, but there's about 5deg of angle on the side plate. Shooting for less grabby and longer lasting. Is that an ok angle? Please, let me know if I need to change something, I'm only half way done at this point...
Oh, and I need to thank all y'all for this site. I've lurked and learned tons...
So, Thank You!
In my opinion that's a great looking tooth. If you have 5 degrees of forward lean and those angles I'd say you're spot on.
 

blades

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Playing with an RS2 I recently got . I was a bit banged up in shipping , now have most of that squared away. I'm getting there but other customer jobs have stacked up so time is limited.
 

blades

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Hey Scarr are you still making the chain guides/carriers they look the same as those on the Simington. I know you were making an alternative slide set up. the shipping gorillas made a bit of mess, think I have it sorted out now . there are spacers between the main frame and the slide carriage, to drop the carriage lower to get off the tie straps all though not enough to clear .404 links ( that is the way I received it), I can resolve that in the same fashion, or slot the chain carriers but that becomes difficult to match sides ( Haven't looked to see if I can move wheel up motor shaft further yet but that might make it to far up for the .375/ .325 stuff) would have to create some sort of indexing indicator to be able to match left to right if carriers were slotted (would be easier than moving wheel). Had a Simington 451 to much play in arm and fiddling to be useful to me. ( likely me). I do this sharpening commercially
 

srcarr52

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Hey Scarr are you still making the chain guides/carriers they look the same as those on the Simington. I know you were making an alternative slide set up. the shipping gorillas made a bit of mess, think I have it sorted out now . there are spacers between the main frame and the slide carriage, to drop the carriage lower to get off the tie straps all though not enough to clear .404 links ( that is the way I received it), I can resolve that in the same fashion, or slot the chain carriers but that becomes difficult to match sides ( Haven't looked to see if I can move wheel up motor shaft further yet but that might make it to far up for the .375/ .325 stuff) would have to create some sort of indexing indicator to be able to match left to right if carriers were slotted (would be easier than moving wheel). Had a Simington 451 to much play in arm and fiddling to be useful to me. ( likely me). I do this sharpening commercially


Yes, I'm still making the chain guides. Also the slide kit I make allows you to move the slide carriage up/down to adjust for the different chassis heights so there is no reason to move the stone arbor all the time.
 

DucTruckin379

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IMG_20220818_195923.jpg

I decided to try converting one of my 3/8 .050 PS chains for the 201t over to square. I had ordered some of both the double bevel, and some of the "triangle" files to try, with the triangle in mind for these little chains. Try as I might, I couldn't get decent angles without getting into the tie straps quite a bit.

Is this too much? It's on a 14" bar, so surely it won't stress the chain too much? I know one thing, I sure don't want this chain flying around... I can't wait to try it though.

For what it's worth from a newb, I found it was easiest to convert after I took a flat file to the points of the round grind, so that I had a flat (facing the cut direction) at least as low as the rakers would be. I wish I had gotten some pictures, but it gave me a good place to start the corner and made it easier to get the angles started right.

Long post, but mainly wanted to know if I got too deep into the tie straps?
 

srcarr52

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View attachment 346495

I decided to try converting one of my 3/8 .050 PS chains for the 201t over to square. I had ordered some of both the double bevel, and some of the "triangle" files to try, with the triangle in mind for these little chains. Try as I might, I couldn't get decent angles without getting into the tie straps quite a bit.

Is this too much? It's on a 14" bar, so surely it won't stress the chain too much? I know one thing, I sure don't want this chain flying around... I can't wait to try it though.

For what it's worth from a newb, I found it was easiest to convert after I took a flat file to the points of the round grind, so that I had a flat (facing the cut direction) at least as low as the rakers would be. I wish I had gotten some pictures, but it gave me a good place to start the corner and made it easier to get the angles started right.

Long post, but mainly wanted to know if I got too deep into the tie straps?

The good news is the saw it’s intended for doesn’t have the power to break the compromised tie straps.
 

huskihl

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View attachment 346495

I decided to try converting one of my 3/8 .050 PS chains for the 201t over to square. I had ordered some of both the double bevel, and some of the "triangle" files to try, with the triangle in mind for these little chains. Try as I might, I couldn't get decent angles without getting into the tie straps quite a bit.

Is this too much? It's on a 14" bar, so surely it won't stress the chain too much? I know one thing, I sure don't want this chain flying around... I can't wait to try it though.

For what it's worth from a newb, I found it was easiest to convert after I took a flat file to the points of the round grind, so that I had a flat (facing the cut direction) at least as low as the rakers would be. I wish I had gotten some pictures, but it gave me a good place to start the corner and made it easier to get the angles started right.

Long post, but mainly wanted to know if I got too deep into the tie straps?
You need to thin your wheel down more to allow you to lower your chain. And then if you want more blunt angles, you may need to thin it down more yet so that you can rock the cutter more forward as it comes into the wheel
 

huskihl

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@huskihl
At this point I'm wishing I had a grinder, but I'm doing this with files... I'll hunt around and see if I can find some pictures of low pro to see where I'm off.
Sounds like I shouldn't be getting into them that much...
Ahh my bad. I was just looking at a grinding thread.
You mentioned a triangular file. Those might be a little bit thick to fit under picco cutters. Try the double bevel or better yet if you can find them, a single bevel
 

mettee

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So I'm guessing I've got something off, and this isn't normal for a pico chain?


Ps chain has a smaller height cutter so it's probably going to do that. You could grind a file down on that side to clearance it. That way it will fit, allow you to hit your angles, and also not cut into the straps. Honestly the amount you cut into the straps is nothing.

I don't like the triangle files much.
 

blades

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That dosen't look too bad on the ties but not touching them is better. cutter itself looks good. as was said modify the file by removing the teeth on the under side and sliming it down. Even with the purpose fit square grinding machines staying out of ties is a pain, and ya sometimes we have to relieve the under side of the wheel to get around that ( Simington unit). there are some other creative choices regarding the sq grinders. - access to a vertical mill and maybe a couple other big boy toys is helpful but can be done old school. I can get a decent sq grind off the Oregon/Tecomec style grinders but helps a lot to have a model where the vise is adj. fore and aft. and has the 10 deg tilt feature. then it is just a matter of dressing the wheel. aint perfect but real close
 

DucTruckin379

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I just looked at the chain, and held the double bevel up on it. There's way more room with it than there was with the "triangle" file. I think my brain was thinking "little chain, smaller file", I didn't even check with the double bevel before I started... The triangle looks smaller, but it's a lot thicker. Lesson learned. Thanks guys.
 

ZERO

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Mid summer present from Mike @Homelite410

Sun is getting lower in the sky, we will need all the help we can.

One is going to someone that want to get into squares, the other will strengthen my operation.

Mike packaged it very well, and another one of those guys that I gladly do business with!

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c8Hg3HK.jpg
 
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