how about a Oklahoma,AR,MO,KS,TX,+IA GTG thread?

[SteveSS]

Stopped by O'reillys today because I need new wheel cylinders for the back of my truck. Apparently there are two different sized wheel cylinders for a 97 F250. Why, I have no earthly idea. Everything must be difficult. Was hoping to buy the cylinders and get them installed this weekend early on Saturday. Now I suppose I'll have to disassemble one and carry it into town to get the right part, effectively wasting an hour of my Saturday on something I should be able to buy in advance.

 

[Hedgerow]

Those sure look handy. But I'm afraid I'd bend one of those into a pretzel.

Oh yeah, you can beat em up. But it'll grab a 30" log and not rub it around in the dirt. Then push/grab brush like nobody's business.
I love it.
When the tractor goes, it'll stay, and go on the next rig. Be it a tractor or a skid steer.

 

[SteveSS]

Hooked up all the plumbing in my daughter's bathroom remodel project today. She's almost ready to seal up the tile and put up a few more pieces of barn tin and trim.....

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That looks fantastic. Very nicely done.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Kenneth, do you also have a gasket for the fuel cap. I've been hobbling along using cutout innertubes for the gasket. the fuel doesn't like rubber so they work for a while and then blammo. this is for my husky 61 rancher; looks just like carl's 50. Or, can you tell me what the gasket is made of? I've tried couple different gasket materials and they don't work.

No I don't a o ring should work.

 

[Workshop]

Stopped by O'reillys today because I need new wheel cylinders for the back of my truck. Apparently there are two different sized wheel cylinders for a 97 F250. Why, I have no earthly idea. Everything must be difficult. Was hoping to buy the cylinders and get them installed this weekend early on Saturday. Now I suppose I'll have to disassemble one and carry it into town to get the right part, effectively wasting an hour of my Saturday on something I should be able to buy in advance.

F250's came with two different brake/suspension systems. Light duty and heavy duty. Light duty is similar to a car. Take the wheel off and pull the drum type. Heavy duty has a big hub sticking through the center of the wheel. Pull the wheel then take out the bolts on the end of the hub to remove the axle. Then remove the lock nuts that the brake drum spins on the spindle. That might help decide which you have without pulling the cylinder apart.
Of course there are sub-possibilities involved too. 10, 11 or 12 inch drums, how wide the shoes are, etc.
Which, then, youre going to have to pull the cylinder, take it apart, and measure the bore.

 

[concretegrazer]

Stopped by O'reillys today because I need new wheel cylinders for the back of my truck. Apparently there are two different sized wheel cylinders for a 97 F250. Why, I have no earthly idea. Everything must be difficult. Was hoping to buy the cylinders and get them installed this weekend early on Saturday. Now I suppose I'll have to disassemble one and carry it into town to get the right part, effectively wasting an hour of my Saturday on something I should be able to buy in advance.

It's been to long but I think thats is a light duty / heavy duty axle thing.

 

[Workshop]

No I don't a o ring should work.View attachment 14627

Maybe I'm wrong, but that looks like an o-ring type cap.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Yes that fuel cap off of a P65. Not familiar with a 61

 

[SteveSS]

New reading material that I picked up today. Another something that I've been wanting to learn.

 

[SteveSS]

F250's came with two different brake/suspension systems. Light duty and heavy duty. Light duty is similar to a car. Take the wheel off and pull the drum type. Heavy duty has a big hub sticking through the center of the wheel. Pull the wheel then take out the bolts on the end of the hub to remove the axle. Then remove the lock nuts that the brake drum spins on the spindle. That might help decide which you have without pulling the cylinder apart.
Of course there are sub-possibilities involved too. 10, 11 or 12 inch drums, how wide the shoes are, etc.
Which, then, youre going to have to pull the cylinder, take it apart, and measure the bore.

It's been to long but I think thats is a light duty / heavy duty axle thing.

Yep. The bore is the difference. Light/heavy duty I'd have thought could've been decoded with the VIN at the service counter, but not so. I have a choice of a 1" bore for 12x2.5 brakes, or a 1.125" bore for 12x3 brakes. Ahh well. I'll get 'er figured out. Need to have some good brakes if I'ma try and make it to Seymour.

Original brake line rusted through. I fixed that, but when I went to bleed, the bleeder valve was corroded stuck and I snapped it off.

 

[Workshop]

I've got a little 70 amp 110 volt flux wire mig that I picked up for my son to learn on. Also because I only have a 100 amp service to my house, which then supplies power to my shop. So I'm limited on what type welder I can run. He has become very good with it, too. Comparable to a gas mig welder of bigger amps. He bought a 240 volt dc tig welder over the weekend, so now the learning curve starts over again. But he is already getting pretty good at it. He will use this welder for doing stuff on his Bronco.

 

[Workshop]

Yep. The bore is the difference. Light/heavy duty I'd have thought could've been decoded with the VIN at the service counter, but not so. I have a choice of a 1" bore for 12x2.5 brakes, or a 1.125" bore for 12x3 brakes. Ahh well. I'll get 'er figured out. Need to have some good brakes if I'ma try and make it to Seymour.

Original brake line rusted through. I fixed that, but when I went to bleed, the bleeder valve was corroded stuck and I snapped it off.

There is another way you can bleed it. I'll explain it, but you still have to remove the brakes to do it. So you might as well put new cylinders on.
Remove one dust boot from the cylinder and remove the piston, being careful to hold the cup in the cylinder (there is a spring inside the cylinder, so if you're not careful, it will pop out). Then push a paper clip between the cup and the cylinder wall at the 12:00 position. Have somebody open the cap to the master cylinder and let gravity bleed the air out. It might take a few minutes to bleed, but it works.
I've had to do that several times before, back when I couldn't afford new cylinders.
Also, replace cylinders in pairs, always.

 

[SteveSS]

Good stuff. Thank you, Steve.

 

[67L36Driver]

I have one with worn out thin rings that will run but I would like to find a set of rings for.....

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New piston w/single thick ring will fix it. Check Definative Dave.

Thin rings are highly overrated IMHO.

This old 50 has single thick ring. 150 psi

 

[Hedgerow]

Yuk...

Brakes..


Just threw up in my mouth a little..

 

[67L36Driver]

No I don't a o ring should work.View attachment 14627

Make sure the 'O' ring is gasoline resistant. I have a box of 'em that arn't. [emoji21]

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Make sure the 'O' ring is gasoline resistant. I have a box of 'em that arn't. [emoji21]

Should have done that thanks Carl.

 

[67L36Driver]

Bleeding brakes with a two by four between the seat front and the brake pedal. One man operation.
Did that a lot on the vet many years ago.

 

[67L36Driver]

Early vet four wheel disc brakes are fixed (not floating) calipers and too much lateral runout will cause the Pistons to suck air in but not leak fluid. I'd drive from Joetown to St. Louis and the pedal would go to the floor on the I 70 off ramp to route 40 in St. Charles. Limp to my cousins place. Bleed the air out. Same deal on trip home. What fun.[emoji15]

 

[67L36Driver]

Personal best time was four hours twenty minutes.
I was young and stupid.