Chainsaws. Now got that covered i have an unrelated question for the group.
Got some front end work done on my truck. Upper joint on drivers side, lower ball joint on passenger, and front end alignment.
After alignment the tech told me ut pulled to the right still because the cimputerized machine aligned based on tire rather than geometry. I had him swap the two front tires but still the same issue.
I think this explanation indicated he is full of bat guano but would like to hear the group consensus. what says yall?
I let ~2# out of left front and it tracks better but still not right
The next thing I would try is rotate the tires front to back. See what that does.
He could try increasing camber on the drivers side, but no more than 3/4 to one degree positive camber final adjustment.
Keep in mind camber is a tire wearing angle. Too much is bad. It's better to increase castor on the right wheel. Castor is not a tire wearing angle.
When I did alignments I always shot for factory specs unless special circumstances.
Generally I would set drivers side at 3/4 degree positive camber and 1/4 to 1/2 positive right side.
Castor at about 1 to 1 1 /4 positive passenger side and about 3/4 positive drivers side.
1/8 inch toe in. Wider tires require more toe in.
Steering axis inclination can be a problem that needs to be checked, too. Also check the thrust angle and compensate for it.
Also, it's proper to replace ball joints in pairs. If you do 1 lower, do the other lower also to keep things matched.
With the above being said, vehicles built in the last 20 years or so Don't have the capability to adjust camber and castor, mainly cars. They have an "operating range" that the factory says is "satisfactory" and the only thing you can do is set the toe-in. (I say that's BS.) Companies do make specialized shims and ball joint adjustors that can be installed to put things back to where they should be.
I really enjoyed doing alignments. Everybody else in the shop thought it was dark magic. But it's really fairly simple.