HOMELITE Homelite Thread

[heimannm]

I guess you are supposed to route the lines like this?

 

[fossil]

Workbench base for little Homelites.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I guess you are supposed to route the lines like this?

Depends on the carburetor.

 

[Stump Shot]

I guess you are supposed to route the lines like this?

Ray Benson can get you manuals if you need them.
These changed over the years just where the spaghetti landed inside the little topper saws, XL and Super 2.
Duck bill valves are usually needed replaced to get all the liquids flowing again as well.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The biggest problem can be the pump diaphragm itself. Replacements are not easy to come by. The DOT 3 treatment has revived a couple for me that probably would have been tossed by most guys. Takes a few days to work, but has proven to be a lasting remedy in the instances I've used it.

 

[heimannm]

I did learn today that the electronic coil will fire with the points flywheel, I was bench testing a short block so I don't know if the timing is correct or not.

I also learned that in spite of testing bad (no continuity on the high tension lead) one coil made spark so I put wires on two more and again, no continuity in a test but they spark...

Now I have one with an oiler issue, I'll report more on that but even with the oil tank pressurized up to 7-8 PSI from an outside source there is no oil flow. Seems there is something I don't understand happening between the diaphragm/piston and the passage in the crankcase.

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The pulse can be derived and routed from different sources depending on the saw model. That's where the various IPLs will come in handy. This is the simplest approach you'll likely find. Pressurized tank and back out to the bar mounting pad.

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[heimannm]

Thanks Poge, I have the lines connected as you show them. When I pressurized the tank I can get oil to the connection at the crankcase, if I remove the diaphragm and piston oil will come out the piston hole but nothing seems to want to go the other way when I replace the diaphragm and piston even if I work the diaphragm.

Mark

 

[Stump Shot]

I did learn today that the electronic coil will fire with the points flywheel, I was bench testing a short block so I don't know if the timing is correct or not.

I also learned that in spite of testing bad (no continuity on the high tension lead) one coil made spark so I put wires on two more and again, no continuity in a test but they spark...

Now I have one with an oiler issue, I'll report more on that but even with the oil tank pressurized up to 7-8 PSI from an outside source there is no oil flow. Seems there is something I don't understand happening between the diaphragm/piston and the passage in the crankcase.

Mark

Have replaced several with a new Walbro coil and they all ran fine. That's all that's available new.
Spark can jump and keep going to jump again. Voltage drop may give run issues however, or not fire under compression.
Check for saw boogers damming up the route somewhere.

 

[heimannm]

undee70ss over on AS provided this excellent diagram.



Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Credit to Greg for the picture I posted above as well. And as you mentioned over on AS, you can occasionally find these saws with the diaphragm pump essentially bypassed and case pressure routed into the tank through the duckbill to push oil straight back out to the bar.

There are even more creative ways, but I can't find the pic right now.

 

[heimannm]

I'm not sure which action did it, I think it was cleaning out the check valve and outlet passage, but the oiler is working now. I put a later model engine with electronic ignition in this one...the metal housing was in better condition than the original plastic. Also notice there is no tape on the handle!







Mark

 

[Maintenance Chief]

The plastic handle cover on the Super 2 is one of those problematic items that always seem to be broken if removed by a non cautious person.
There's a tab that breaks ,preventing it from ever staying in place without duct tape.

 

[davidwyby]

What’d I get?

 

[Woodslasher]

What’d I get? View attachment 338302

Super xl. Tough, rattly, and will probably outlive the both of us.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

What’d I get? View attachment 338302

Super XL-12, 58ccs of I'm going to run forever.

 

[heimannm]

On a related matter to my post above, does anyone know where I can find, or what is a good part number for a clutch drum with a .325 sprocket to fit the XL / Super 2 models? The same fellow that brought in the first XL2 to get worked on brought in new 16" .325 bar to fit it and wanted me to make him a chain. Unless we can find a clutch drum/sprocket to work with the bar it doesn't do much good.

Mark

 

[Dub11]

The biggest problem can be the pump diaphragm itself. Replacements are not easy to come by. The DOT 3 treatment has revived a couple for me that probably would have been tossed by most guys. Takes a few days to work, but has proven to be a lasting remedy in the instances I've used it.

Are you soaking diaphragm in dot 3 or just rubbing it on and letting it set?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Completely submerged. I also flexed the material a couple times a day. Not sure how much that may have helped, but it let me know that the soaking was slowly becoming effective.

 

[heimannm]

New challenge for me, I am working on a 360 that won't oil consistently. Seems to spit a little out when idling and revving up and down, but no steady stream when it is running flat out.

I have replaced the line in the tank, cleaned the pick up thoroughly, replaced the line from the tank to the pump, and pulled the pump and shot some cleaner through it. O-rings on the pump body all look good.

It seems to be spitting a little air from time to time but with all new lines I don't know where it is coming from. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark