Grease Monkey Garage

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks!

 

[stihl livin]

Hey @redline4 what’s the status of the chevelle?

 

[redline4]

Hey @redline4 what’s the status of the chevelle?

Got the new ECU from Holley.
Downloaded the newest firmware and base calibration.
Realized I had left the key on for about 2 weeks from when I was doing wiring. Battery refuses to crank it over.
New battery.
Start car, same thing as before. A/F ratio sits at 36.
Take 2 of the 3 oxygen sensors, plug them in and take a rag that I sprayed with flammable brake clean and wrap around the sensor. A/F goes to 10...so, it evidently can do whatits supposed to.
Take exhaust pipe off. Weld a sensor bung in 10" from header collector. Put it all back together.
Same thing...
Now I'm wondering if my intake has a vacuum leak and I'm not hearing it or it's not showing signs when I spray around it. So, intake off...
New intake seals, and a big ol bead of Dirko HT around each seal. That bįtćh should be bonded to the heads now. Just did that last night, and I'm letting it sit before starting it, probably tonight.

 

[redline4]

So I'm putting an ignition lock cylinder and housing in father in law's POS 2005 Chevy Colorado. I found a complete housing and cylinder with keys from another 05 Colorado in a junkyard. If you are replacing the whole thing, is the ECM going to play nice with the new/used parts?

I'm guessing you will need to refer to the 30 minute procedure

 

[FergusonTO35]

Awesome, thanks! On the early 2000's Toyotas there was a long sequence of turn ignition on, open door, turn ignition off, shut door, floor the gas pedal, blow the horn, do a backwards polka with your eyes closed, and so on to program new keys.

 

[stretch5881]

So what happened to it?

Got the new ECU from Holley.
Downloaded the newest firmware and base calibration.
Realized I had left the key on for about 2 weeks from when I was doing wiring. Battery refuses to crank it over.
New battery.
Start car, same thing as before. A/F ratio sits at 36.
Take 2 of the 3 oxygen sensors, plug them in and take a rag that I sprayed with flammable brake clean and wrap around the sensor. A/F goes to 10...so, it evidently can do whatits supposed to.
Take exhaust pipe off. Weld a sensor bung in 10" from header collector. Put it all back together.
Same thing...
Now I'm wondering if my intake has a vacuum leak and I'm not hearing it or it's not showing signs when I spray around it. So, intake off...
New intake seals, and a big ol bead of Dirko HT around each seal. That bįtćh should be bonded to the heads now. Just did that last night, and I'm letting it sit before starting it, probably tonight.

Do you have any hair left?

 

[redline4]

Started the car up yesterday evening.
Same deal, A/F ratio sat at 35.
Started spraying brake clean around the intake again with no change.
I noticed when I continually sprayed it down the side, I suddenly heard the rpm change and ratio twitched.
Began spraying around the raised bosses for the fuel injectors and guess what? It's pulling in air!
So, now I need to determine if it's a size mismatch with my intake or what the deal is. I might run to work this morning and get my can of fuel injector o-rings accumulated over the years.
I did also read there's a difference in the injector sizes between LS1, LS3 and such. I need to see what size my injectors are, Michigan motorsports offers a "conversion" o-ring for the different injectors into the different intakes.
I really feel I'm close now.

 

[redline4]

I've got oxygen sensor readings!!!!

 

[Shane¹]

I've got oxygen sensor readings!!!!

View attachment 463758

Nice! Was it the injector orings?

 

[redline4]

Nice! Was it the injector orings?

It was either the o-rings or how the injectors were seated into the intake. I swapped the rails side to side because I noticed they sat at a very slight angle that I had overlooked before.

 

[hacskaroly]

I've got oxygen sensor readings!!!!

It's always a really good feeling when something finally works, but usually by then you are bald from pulling all of your hair out during the process!

 

[redline4]

4 hours of messing with the fuel rails, brackets and o-rings and I can't get them to seal enough to trust it. I had one side sealed up. Moved to the next side and the other bank began pulling air again.

Chalk this intake up to a couple hundred dollar paper weight.

So, this is happening...


The factory truck intake is real close to the hood but these engine mounts may as well be solid, so it shouldn't contact it.
Once again I need to replumb my fuel system because the oem rail is a single inlet, return less style.. mote fittings on order. Again.

 

[Steve]

4 hours of messing with the fuel rails, brackets and o-rings and I can't get them to seal enough to trust it. I had one side sealed up. Moved to the next side and the other bank began pulling air again.
View attachment 463870
Chalk this intake up to a couple hundred dollar paper weight.

So, this is happening...
View attachment 463871View attachment 463872

The factory truck intake is real close to the hood but these engine mounts may as well be solid, so it shouldn't contact it.
Once again I need to replumb my fuel system because the oem rail is a single inlet, return less style.. mote fittings on order. Again.

Sounds like all of my projects!

 

[Shane¹]

4 hours of messing with the fuel rails, brackets and o-rings and I can't get them to seal enough to trust it. I had one side sealed up. Moved to the next side and the other bank began pulling air again.
View attachment 463870
Chalk this intake up to a couple hundred dollar paper weight.

So, this is happening...
View attachment 463871View attachment 463872

The factory truck intake is real close to the hood but these engine mounts may as well be solid, so it shouldn't contact it.
Once again I need to replumb my fuel system because the oem rail is a single inlet, return less style.. mote fittings on order. Again.

Wouldn't it be easier to just get an older return style fuel rail then run another fuel line?