Grease Monkey Garage

[redline4]

What do you guys think of using Fluid Film to protect the chassis and underbody of a vehicle from corrosion? My understanding is that this is basically what Ziebart uses. I could get the spray kit, pressure wash everything, and soak it in this stuff. My Ford Ranger and Mazda 626 have alot of car cancer. I figure I would grind away the really bad stuff first.

You won't like working on it after application. You'll end up looking like a large pod of whales decided to blow snot all over you.

 

[FergusonTO35]

So, how about POR? If I can stop the rust and protect it now, I should be able to save both vehicles.

 

[Duce]

So, how about POR? If I can stop the rust and protect it now, I should be able to save both vehicles.

Sprayed mine with chassis saver (waste of time), using Woolwax now, similar to fluid film. I remove box every time and @redline4 is correct, wear old clothes if working on it. Arms, legs and hair will be black, think POR is similar to chassis saver.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Eastwood has a similar product I'm looking at, rust blockade or something like that.

 

[Hinerman]

Started a new project today
A Frank N Truck A 94 Ford Superduty 4x4 frame, 97 5.9 Cummins and probably a 86 Chev Square Body crew cab.
I bought a bunch of parts from Diesel Conversion Specialists to make it go smoother. A friend who used to truck from Minnesota to Alaska was going to bring them up, but he got covid and had his CDL pulled after he recovered. @davidwyby helped me get the parts up by Pirate Ship to Haines Alaska where i picked them up.
Nice parts,i got the engine trans mounted for the first time today. I am sure it will be in and out a few times as i encounter issues. I have a junk cab to use for mock up no windows in it so i can stick the forks through it to move it around.
Supposed to drop to -40 ish tonight so inside work for the next few days, we had rain last weekend.View attachment 406353View attachment 406354View attachment 406355View attachment 406356View attachment 406357

I can't wrap my head around how that is even possible!!!

 

[Yukon Stihl]

I can't wrap my head around how that is even possible!!!

I will try to post pic's for you to follow
Got the crew cab on my hoist at the moment, will probably hopefully have the cab on the hoist and pull the original frame out over the weekend and see how the cab fits the ford frame.If i want to use the box i will have to extend the frame 4 1/2 inches.

 

[stretch5881]

I had used a product from Europe called waxoyl on our Chrysler van and my Jeep WJ. It held up very well and the only rust issues were the rockers. The engineers decided, to cut down on road noise, they filled the rockers with foam. It does a wonderful job at deadening sound......and retaining moisture.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Sounds good. Is it sold here?

 

[stretch5881]

So, how about POR? If I can stop the rust and protect it now, I should be able to save both vehicles.

Sounds good. Is it sold here?

I had to order it from the UK.

 

[nbbt]

Sounds good. Is it sold here?

There is a US website for the waxoyl. I was looking there earlier.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Separation happened today
Test fit on to the new frame tomorrow which will be the start of building 8 body mounts. Maybe get lucky and the original ones for the rad support will be usable, but preliminary measurements say not likely.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Test fit showed the frame and cab didn't really like each other
Pulled the engine assembly and put it back into storage after getting it in the right place to center the wheels in the front wheel wells.
Next step is to extend the frame to fit the cab,then build cab mounts,rad support to hold the ford rad and dodge intercooler.
Unfortunately the place where the frame needs to be extended is not parallel, in any way. The frame rails go from 5 1/2 to 6 inches then back to 5,slightly flare out then back in where they meet the nice straight rear section.
Probably going to weld some straight channel the rear and front sections so they are side by side then cut the frame and extend to the lenght required,fill with 5/16th plate steel and box the inside past both sides of the splice.
I have never lengthened a frame before, talked to a welder i know who does semi's quite a bit for some tips.
If anyone here has suggestions,i am all ears.
Thanks

 

[Bigmac]

Got a score on some 17 x 10 welds for the Blazer! Gonna need some elbow grease though! $400

 

[redline4]

Got a score on some 17 x 10 welds for the Blazer! Gonna need some elbow grease though! $400 View attachment 409809View attachment 409810

Those should look real good on there

 

[Bigmac]

Those should look real good on there

Thanks Ed, I’m pretty excited, been looking for some vintage welds for a while it’s hard to find them anything but 16.5 typhoon’ s for a superduty. Super single’s would have been nice, or scorpios. This was the first 17x10 not a superduty I have seen in my area

 

[Woodslasher]

I picked up a few from work, we're gonna try 'em out and pick out the best of the lot. The nice thing about working at a parts store is I get access to online and paper catalogs, I can order whatever the hell I want, they pay me to show up and look up/pick up parts, and they even sell them to me for way cheaper prices!

About 3 months later I got the pitman arm on the truck but it wound up being a two steps forward one step back sorta deal. I got the arm bolted up and it's better, but it's still too long so I'll probably wind up heating and bending it like in the picture below. Worst case I'll convert to crossover steering but I'll save that as a last resort.

While I was tinkering I checked and adjusted the clearance between the booster pushrod and the master cylinder since the brakes won't "lock up" at the end of the throw. It did help and now the pass. rear wheel will lock up, but the braking still feels lackluster and will need to be checked.

Also, I did an oil change on it, got the new filter prefilled and was pouring some oil that was already on the shelf in the truck when a few globs started coming out. Turns out a jug of used oil got put on the new oil shelf. It looked clean enough to be new initially but it wasn't. So, I drained the oil again, replaced the new filter and made sure it was new oil in the next jug.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Frame has been lengthened 3" now the wheels will fit in the wheel wells if i decide to use a box on the truck.
The cab fits the frame a lot better, but i will have to take a bit off the top where the frame comes up to the flat area under the box. Turns out that a set of cab mounts are in the same spot so that will kill two birds with one stone.
First pic shows the channel frame i welded on top of the frame to keep it aligned after the cut it allowed me to slide it apart and remain supported with no droop. I center punched a diagonal on top of the frame rails to make sure the stretch was square.
Second pic shows the Z cut i put in at the end of the straight area
Third shows the finished frame on the outside, i then added a 16" piece to the inside to make it a box frame 5" past each weld on the outside
Then i removed the channel frame and cleaned up all the weld spots on the frame and channel iron so it is ready for whatever i need it for. Then a cleanup around the frame to make it a workable area again.
Today i changed the bad fender and straightened the GM rad support. I also drilled some 4 1/2 holes through the ford rad support to begin the inter-cooler placement. Then spent some time imaginering the merger of the two rad supports. The Dodge inter-cooler was a freebie a couple years ago and fits nice so far. Gave the wrists a good workout drilling through a few layers that kept binding the hole saw.

 

[Bigmac]

Made some good progress on the bandhee

 

[I saw a lot]

Too nice to ride. You'll need to put it in a glass case to show off.

 

[Bigmac]

Had two turn and burns! Nice and easy, the second came from another shop, and was a “lost cause” had the wrong plug heat range and a carb clean. And I don’t know how the Yamaha ran, the carb wasn’t even in the boot!