Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.That sounds like bottom end then. Have to drop entire engine/trans out the bottom to pull with the torque converter.
Or, remove oil pan and torch the back of the crank in half to get flywheel to rotate and converter bolts out. May even need to do that if pulled together.
350305 or 350? My sister has a Merc 305 with a cracked block, I told her to look for a place that does furnace brazing.
Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.
Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.
Yes, it is. But I am a sucker guy for helping people out.Is this thing customer pay?
@Woodslasher check plastic tcase shift fork wear pads...tcase go boom.
Fluke 87 or 88 if you're a full time guy.Ugh, my trusty Actron multimeter took a crap on me. I bought it around 2000 and it's the only meter I've ever used for car stuff. I rather doubt that Actron offers any service for it, but I sent them a message asking. Anyhow, what's a good meter for automotive use? The Fluke 88V looks pretty nice.
Anybody know about the 2015 Nissan Murano? We found a good deal on one, but I have heard they have alot of transmission problems.
Holy crap, 10k is like a new car to me!