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Duce

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That sounds like bottom end then. Have to drop entire engine/trans out the bottom to pull with the torque converter.
Or, remove oil pan and torch the back of the crank in half to get flywheel to rotate and converter bolts out. May even need to do that if pulled together.
Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.
 

Woodslasher

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I took Thursday and Friday off in addition to my weekend and finally installed the reman tranny in my Dodge! I also changed the oil in everything while I was at it. Most of the oil was just really dirty, but the stuff from the rear diff looked kinda sketchy. Everything still felt tight and the p.o. probably hadn't changed the oil in 20 years so I'll run it for a couple hundred miles, drain it, and see how it looks. The chunk appears to be part of a clutch from the posi.
IMG_3900.jpegIMG_3902.jpegIMG_3901.jpegIMG_3908.jpeg
 

redline4

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Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.


As long as the main bearings did not spin in the bore, you're spot on.
I've put a few cranks in them. You'll also need a new rod for the one that spun. The rods have a "front" and rear, they need to face a certain way in the engine, FYI. get them out and pistons off to check the pin bushings in the non spun ones before ordering, that way you'll lknow how many you need for sure. I've seen a few of the bushings crack and/or disintegrate.
You may need to beg or borrow an installer for the rear crank seal.
GM offers a piston kit, pistons, pins, clips, rings thats only available by a bulletin. I can get you the [part number if you want, as it cuts the price of individual components in half or more.
If you need any torque specs, or procedures, ETC, hit me up.
 

FergusonTO35

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Finally finished other projects and started on Captiva engine. Here is what I have found so far, could not turn engine over with breaker bar, removed oil pain (small amount of oil still in it), removed rod bearing caps and could rotate crank, disconnected torque converter from flywheel and can turn crank by hand. Cylinder 2,3,4 rod bearings are scuffed, but still had oil film. Cylinder 1 bearing cap was stuck to crank and removed with pry bar, crank is scored and has rolled metal on cylinder 1. Main bearing support makes it hard to see all sided of cylinders, but from what I can see, walls look ok. Timing chain is not loose or broken. Here is my plan and please stop me if I am headed in wrong direction. Remove engine, replace crank, new main bearings, new seals, new rod bearings and any other worn parts I find. China engine, seems like there should be a cheap replacement, but used ones bring $2500.

Is this thing customer pay?
 

FergusonTO35

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Ugh, my trusty Actron multimeter took a crap on me. I bought it around 2000 and it's the only meter I've ever used for car stuff. I rather doubt that Actron offers any service for it, but I sent them a message asking. Anyhow, what's a good meter for automotive use? The Fluke 88V looks pretty nice.
 

Steve

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Ugh, my trusty Actron multimeter took a crap on me. I bought it around 2000 and it's the only meter I've ever used for car stuff. I rather doubt that Actron offers any service for it, but I sent them a message asking. Anyhow, what's a good meter for automotive use? The Fluke 88V looks pretty nice.
Fluke 87 or 88 if you're a full time guy.

Or just a basic auto ranging fluke will suit your needs im sure.
 

FergusonTO35

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Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Seen some nice ones from Snappy and Matco that don't cost too much also. In any event, my ancient Carquest brand unit will do everything I need for now.
 

FergusonTO35

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Anybody know about the 2015 Nissan Murano? We found a good deal on one, but I have heard they have alot of transmission problems.
 
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