Going through a 346 OE at work..

[Simondo]

Can the pump be epoxied like the 200t?

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I Don't know …not familiar with the 200t epoxy trick. ?

 

[psuiewalsh]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/

 

[XP_Slinger]

OK, so for future reference, the filter mounts will work on either carb, and any carb/filter mount combination will work on either OE or NE 346, with the exception that if running an OE style 346 carb that does not have the provisions for the primer line, you would have to disable or block off your primer line somehow..

But the benefit of using the NE style mount is a better air filter retention system.

Here are some side by side pics.

Pics of saw show the Zama c3-el32 from my NE346 installed with the OE filter mount in the OE 346.

I should also note that the NE filter mount has a fitting for connecting the tank vent line to the intake pipe beneath the air filter making it so the tank vent pulls filtered air... Good idea.

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Good post Joe. That's the kind of definitive information we all look for when we're searching for answers.

 

[idiotwithasaw]

Why wouldn't you just attempt to replace the oring. Napa might even be able to match one up. Is that how all accelerator pumps work, with a piston and oring? I know next to nothing about carbs.

Also what is this treemonkey fix and why/how does it work?

 

[idiotwithasaw]

Ok found the treemonkey fix video on as. But if the pump can be removed and cleaned without damaging the plug like in the 200t video why wouldn't you. What is the purpose of the accelerator pump anyway?

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[Locust Cutter]

To give an initial shot of fuel to kick-start the acceleration process and keep the engine from having a ean stumble upon initial acceleration. I had an old '63 F-600 with a 262I6 in it. The rod for the accelerator pump was snapped and it was a radius-ed bell rod that pushed. Basically when you hit the gas from idle, it stumbled, coughed, then started to pick up RPM. Think of it as the firs cup of coffee in the am...

 

[Simondo]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/200t-carburetor-accel-pump-block-off.238372/

I will pass on giving a opinion on wether you could do the same on the Walbro carbs on the 346…don't know .

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I think part of the problem with fixing the accel pump is that the brass plug is sacrificed to facilitate removal of the pump for service. The accel pump parts, including the brass plug are NLA. I plan to do some experimenting on the hda159 in this OE346 to see what it's all about.

 

[XP_Slinger]

I think part of the problem with fixing the accel pump is that the brass plug is sacrificed to facilitate removal of the pump for service. The accel pump parts, including the brass plug are NLA. I plan to do some experimenting on the hda159 in this OE346 to see what it's all about.

If you can manage to salvage the plug when you remove it I think epoxy or JB weld could be the way to go. So I guess we're in for some more bench time this weekend? Think I'll just move the coffee pot to the barn...lol

 

[Simondo]

RR and XP Slinger….. Dont know if these will help with the dismantle…. don't have a stage by stage but this is the HDA 182 that was on my 346 xp.

 

[Tor R]

Simon,
5mm brass plug, and 2mm deep?

 

[Simondo]

Simon,
5mm brass plug, and 2mm deep?

Hi Tor
Hole in the carb is 5.75 mm x 2.5 mm ..so i would think the pill shaped plug is turned from Ex 6 mm round stock. You could leave it 3 mm long and flat it back after install to get a smooth surface with the surrounding carb body.

 

[Tor R]

Hi Tor
Hole in the carb is 5.75 mm x 2.5 mm ..so i would think the pill shaped plug is turned from Ex 6 mm round stock. You could leave it 3 mm long and flat it back after install to get a smooth surface with the surrounding carb body.

thanks for the answer Simon.
It was a shot in blind, always wonder what this brass plug who follow the carb repair set 501 66 84 01 (242,254,262)

 

[Simondo]

This is where a small lathe would come in very handy..I have one at the family farm but i should make room here in my workshop as it gets under used.
Will look closer at the carb kits and see if the brass plugs in them is the same as needed for the blank plug.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yeah, I suppose some strategically placed JB weld and some sanding back down flush once cured would do the trick... So long as the plug will stay securely in place when re-installed.

But what about the worn/dysfunctional pump pieces??

I should have the new Zama for the saw at work by weeks end.. I'm sure the boss won't mind if I take the old carb home for some experimentation.

Tor: Do the HDA198's have the accelerator pump as well?? Just curious as you suggested the 198 as a replacement for the 199 in my 357 for when the pump in the 199 goes south...

 

[Tor R]

Tor: Do the HDA198's have the accelerator pump as well?? Just curious as you suggested the 198 as a replacement for the 199 in my 357 for when the pump in the 199 goes south...

far as I know it has, other thing is that we have to choose between thing we can get, I would pick 198 before zama, but that is just what I prefer, no specific reason for it either.
@sunfish have used both 199 and 198, he is probleby the correct person to get it confirmed from.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yes, I prefer the Walbro for my mildly modded 357 based on what I have heard about the Zama replacements not being up to the task of feeding modded 357s.

I'll stick with the Walbros on certain saws...

My 359 project builder will get a new Zama if the HDA175 I just picked up used turns out to have a bad pump.. This saw will likely remain stock or very close to stock so the Zama should work fine in this case. I'm thinking muffler mod and base gasket delete at most...

 

[Tor R]

Yes, I prefer the Walbro for my mildly modded 357 based on what I have heard about the Zama replacements not being up to the task of feeding modded 357s.

I'll stick with the Walbros on certain saws...

My 359 project builder will get a new Zama if the HDA175 I just picked up used turns out to have a bad pump.. This saw will likely remain stock or very close to stock so the Zama should work fine in this case. I'm thinking muffler mod and base gasket delete at most...

i dont think you will experience so much difference between Walbro and Zama on an 359 close to stock. I have 357 Zama carb on my JRed 2147, should try an 199 just to see if it gain more...

When I think about it, shoot Three Monkey one PM about 190,191,198,199, he probleby know every difference those carbs have

 

[Simondo]

Yeah, I suppose some strategically placed JB weld and some sanding back down flush once cured would do the trick... So long as the plug will stay securely in place when re-installed.

But what about the worn/dysfunctional pump pieces??

I should have the new Zama for the saw at work by weeks end.. I'm sure the boss won't mind if I take the old carb home for some experimentation.

Tor: Do the HDA198's have the accelerator pump as well?? Just curious as you suggested the 198 as a replacement for the 199 in my 357 for when the pump in the 199 goes south...

I suspect unless there is damage to the actual pump slug then the tinny O rings could be swapped out to return function. The thing works like a piston actuated by the accelerator spindle pressing on a coil spring and in turn the slug with O rings , so I guess the O rings are going to be the main wearing component.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I suspect unless there is damage to the actual pump slug then the tinny O rings could be swapped out to return function. The thing works like a piston actuated by the accelerator spindle pressing on a coil spring and in turn the slug with O rings , so I guess the O rings are going to be the main wearing component.

O-rings and maybe a touch of careful cleaning of the piston and/or bore it rides in to remove any varnish that may be gumming it up??

I'm starting to think this can be doable with a little ingenuity... Sourcing the O-rings may be a trick. I'm definitely going to bring that hda159 home and see what can be done with it.