Gentlemen, start your mowers!

[FergusonTO35]

Oh, and I figured out the mystery location for the engine numbers. Turns out these small OHV's have the numbers stamped into the exhaust side of the block, mine was just too covered in grime to see. That is a better place to put them than a shroud or plate which could get lost or replaced at some point. Unfortunately B&S didn't bother to mention this anywhere on their website, I had to go look at a new one in the store to find out.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Quick question: what kind of crankshaft endplay is acceptable or common on these little engines? On the current engine I can move the bottom or top of the crankshaft 1/32" up and down as measured by my machinist's rule. The blade is not on it and the flywheel is tight. According to B&S, .002-.028 is acceptable., so it appears to be right at the limit or a little over. There is no discernable runout on the crank nose. The lower oil seal is split and leaking pretty bad. Does the oil seal serve any role in controlling end play on small engines? I looked at the diagram and don't see any thrust washers or bearing cages. The numbers on it are 08P502 0079 F1.

 

[Larry B]

That amount of endplay is OK. The seal is part number 391483s. You can change it without any engine disassembly. Seal doesn't affect thrust. Thust is between milled bottom of crank journal and top of bearing surface on sump. You adj endplay with shims between crank and sump base. Shim number 593291 Endplay on these engines not critical.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks very much. I guess I've just been lucky as I've never had to do much to my small four strokes, hence never really had to open one up. Ordered the seal so hopefully I can run it once that is replaced.

Got the little Murray 8hp/30" RER out and cut the front yard today. These damn Tecumseh carbs take awhile to come out of hibernation, had to keep the choke half way on the whole time. This thing is 1996 model and I've never had to do anything to the carb, to it's credit. Mebbe it's just time for a new one.

 

[oologahan]

Thanks very much. I guess I've just been lucky as I've never had to do much to my small four strokes, hence never really had to open one up. Ordered the seal so hopefully I can run it once that is replaced.

Got the little Murray 8hp/30" RER out and cut the front yard today. These damn Tecumseh carbs take awhile to come out of hibernation, had to keep the choke half way on the whole time. This thing is 1996 model and I've never had to do anything to the carb, to it's credit. Mebbe it's just time for a new one.

I had the same problem with my Tecumseh OH160, previous owner put a new replacement engine on it in 1984 and never ran it because the mechanic that was repairing the mower deck skipped town with everyones equipment. I bought it in 20010 and it wore out a starter getting it to fire up, once fired up she would only run at full throttle with half choke. I stropped a pipe cleaner wire and ran it up the low speed orifice and was able to clear a clog, runs good now.

 

[Larry B]

Those Tecumseh carbs don't like sitting with fuel in them especially with 10% ethanol. At least 50% of my work is carbs or fuel systems. A good ultrasonic cleaner is worth the cost. Usually the Tec carbs plug the idle jet first and cause surging at partial throttle and won't idle. Then the main jet plugs. If you have to run it at partial choke then main jet and passages partially plugged. Either needs dipped for a couple days or a half hour in an ultrasonic with shellac buster.

 

[oologahan]

Those Tecumseh carbs don't like sitting with fuel in them especially with 10% ethanol. At least 50% of my work is carbs or fuel systems. A good ultrasonic cleaner is worth the cost. Usually the Tec carbs plug the idle jet first and cause surging at partial throttle and won't idle. Then the main jet plugs. If you have to run it at partial choke then main jet and passages partially plugged. Either needs dipped for a couple days or a half hour in an ultrasonic with shellac buster.

We have a lot of stations down here that only sell real gas, but I bought this 1977 Bolens H16 in Iowa were corn gas is everywhere. We never use ethanol gas in anything.

 

[Larry B]

I run E10 in the big stuff the Ferris, 184 LoBoy. Bunton. All the small stuff gets real gas. I used to complain about E10 but the i realised that it makes me money.

 

[oologahan]

I run E10 in the big stuff the Ferris, 184 LoBoy. Bunton. All the small stuff gets real gas. I used to complain about E10 but the i realised that it makes me money.

I don't understand e-10 or the philosophy behind it. t gets 25 percent LESS mileage than real gas so you have to use more gs to get the same miles which negates the price drop and allows the same amount of carbon into the air. It sounds like someone with no brain, but stock in corn thought this through, obviously a brain dead commie politician. The corn growers in Iowa benefited from this originally, but after a short time it caused corn prices to go way down, now they grow more corn for less money. The whole idea is just plain stupid.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks for the good advice. I use fuel stabilizer year round. Strangely, Tecumsehs are the only engines that ever give me these sort of problems. Even my 1955 tractor and my two strokes work great after sitting over the winter with stabilized fuel. I'll order a kit for the 8hp, I doubt it has had one since it rolled off the line in 1996.

 

[Larry B]

Usually what happens is folks shut off the fuel and what is in the float bowl turns to crap and the passages in the older Tec carbs are small so they plug up faster. Depending on how much water the ethanol sucks out of the air depends how it it craps. My favorite is when it turns to snot jelly and corrodes the the float bowl and leaves the greenish cement in the jets. Especially Honda pilot jets

 

[FergusonTO35]

Yep, got many machines for free in that condition. I'm a big believer in fuel stabilizer. Normally, when I have to do carb work on one of my machines it's just a matter of replacing worn out diaphragms and gaskets. The passages are clean as can be.

 

[oologahan]

Yep, got many machines for free in that condition. I'm a big believer in fuel stabilizer. Normally, when I have to do carb work on one of my machines it's just a matter of replacing worn out diaphragms and gaskets. The passages are clean as can be.

Half the time I do carb work the problem is solved by putting gas in the tank.

 

[FergusonTO35]

"Ain't got no gas in it."- Sling Blade

 

[oologahan]

"Ain't got no gas in it."- Sling Blade

one of my favorite movies, big Billy Bob Thornton fan. "I like them French fried potaters", He was super in Fargo as well.

 

[FergusonTO35]

The parts for my little Murray push mower showed up last night. The lip on the lower crankshaft seal had come completely off, looks like some grass and debris got caught inside it. I cleaned out the recess and installed the new seal no problem. Installed the one missing wheel and also removed all the nuts and bolts and put a nice coat of anti-seize on them. Installed the deadman handle and a new blade and it fired right up. I mowed a little bit with it under the electric pole security light and it seems to cut nice. This thing is very lightweight, exactly what I need. The deck seems to be thinner metal than typical, and the OHV engine is light as a feather. It does have the up and down RPM characteristic of a dirty carburetor. I put some Seafoam in the fuel and it seemed to improve the longer it ran. Fortunately new carbs are only $30.00 or so, in fact not much more than a carb kit.

 

[Larry B]

Sounds good. Pricing on carbs is crazy in the last couple years. Since Stihl bought Zama some carbs are $25 and some $125. Same for briggs and tecumseh. Some OEM almost as cheap as the knock offs and some outrageous. Real Honda carbs expensive so I give my customers a choice of OEM or AM if the ultrasonic won't fix it. So far pretty good luck with the AM ones.
Had a customer bring me a tiller last night that has been in a barn for 2 years. gives "crappy" a whole new meaning.

 

[Larry B]

Oh yeah, the most common reason for the crank seal on a push mower to fail is string or fishing line wrapping around the crank and damaging the seal. Ask any boat mechanic what the most common reason for lower unit seal failure is and he will tell you it is fishing line.

 

[Larry B]

Here is a pic of a tiller customer dropped off.

 

[Junior Samples]

Did they forget to move the tiller before they threw the chicken s..t ?