First post, first kit saw

[Kalamojakka]

The stens boot came in the mail today. Costed $10.99 on eBay. This one feels like a much higher quality rubber than the ft boot.

I finished assembly and fired it up! It starts, idles, and oils! Now I'm waiting for the rain to stop before sinking it into some wood.

This was my first time seeing the inside of a motor, and I have very limited experience in fixing small engines. I have no special tools beyond what the average guy has in the garage. I purchased a t27 wrench and a little spring puller hook for the build.

My primary reason for building the saw was to learn what they look like on the inside. If you are interested in building one, but scared to start, take my word, you are capable of doing it.

 

[MustangMike]

Looks nice, best of luck with it. I see you installed the bar studs in reverse like I like to do, makes it so much easier not to strip them!

 

[Kalamojakka]

Trying to keep the expenses down!

 

[Kalamojakka]

So, I put a couple tanks of gas through it. Been using it for cutting firewood. It's got power - it sliced right through 25" elm. I started with 25:1 mixed with Stihl premium oil. I thought I would be able to to back off on the oil and after both tanks tried to run it with 32:1. Both times, the saw said no. It just stopped after about 30 seconds of running, but now runs fine when I add oil to 25:1.

I've been reading through posts on here, learning about muffler mods, squish, porting, and timing. I did none of these, just assembled the saw, upgrading parts that looked like they needed it. Has OEM bearing seals, gaskets, decomp, and stens intake manifold boot. All else is FT. I tuned the carb a little, but I'm not an expert.

Do these saws generally need more oil than genuine saws, or is there some adjustments or mods I should look into at this point?

 

[Czed]

So, I put a couple tanks of gas through it. Been using it for cutting firewood. It's got power - it sliced right through 25" elm. I started with 25:1 mixed with Stihl premium oil. I thought I would be able to to back off on the oil and after both tanks tried to run it with 32:1. Both times, the saw said no. It just stopped after about 30 seconds of running, but now runs fine when I add oil to 25:1.

I've been reading through posts on here, learning about muffler mods, squish, porting, and timing. I did none of these, just assembled the saw, upgrading parts that looked like they needed it. Has OEM bearing seals, gaskets, decomp, and stens intake manifold boot. All else is FT. I tuned the carb a little, but I'm not an expert.

Do these saws generally need more oil than genuine saws, or is there some adjustments or mods I should look into at this point?

Imho
A saws a saw doesn't matter the maker
they need plenty of oil to the bottom end
For longevity.
We have a few thousand oil threads
But that's the general consensus
32/1-40/1 seems the most popular
Don't even mention oil brand's
But i personally don't like stihl oil
Have fixed several saws with stuck rings.
Don't know what you mean by stops running with 32/1

 

[MustangMike]

You may have to adjust your tune when you change the oil ratio.

And I like 40:1, but I only run AMSOIL Saber … oils the parts real well.

 

[MG porting]

Any time you change your mix from whatever you need to reset you're carb.

 

[Nutball]

More oil means less gas per liquid volume into the intake. Less oil than 25:1 should slow the rpm, and make it 4 stroke. Just lean it out a bit.