Firewood Measuring Sticks

[Philbert]

Couple of 'geeky' comments for DIY'ers . . .

First, to reiterate a few things:
- not everybody wants to use these;
- if you just want one, it is much easier to just buy one (at least 4 vendors are referenced in this thread);
- if you just want one, and have to buy all the materials, it is probably cheaper to just buy one;
- that said, some guys just like to do things themselves; or want a custom version; or have all the materials sitting around, and it's raining, and they are out of beer . . . .

The actual sticks could be from a variety of sources. We mentioned driveway markers, electric fence posts, old arrow shafts, tent poles, . . . I have started looking funny at old fishing poles, golf clubs, and TV antennas at garage sales. I prefer something non-metalic, in case of accidental contact with the saw, but soft aluminum may be OK.

The rare earth magnets ('neodymium') are the heart of these measuring sticks. They are super strong, and when placed in a metal cup, the magnetic force is focused to one side, dramatically increasing the holding power. So what you want to buy are 'neodymium cup magnet assemblies'. These are available on eBay, Amazon, etc., with a countersunk hole for a screw, or with a male threaded stud, or a female threaded post.

1 inch diameter cup magnets are rated around 40 pounds of holding force. A 1.25 inch diameter magnet jumps up to 70 pounds of holding force! The same magnets without the screw holes have higher holding power (very noticeable, but not always rated differently by the vendors).



Here's the geeky part: thinner, more flexible sticks do not need as strong of a magnet, since they flex before they pry the magnet off of the guide bar. This might happen if the stick brushes against a limb while cutting branches. Thicker, stiffer sticks need a stronger magnet, since a smaller movement of the tip will apply leverage against the magnet.

Have fun. Be safe. And please post photos and comments of any you try in this thread.

Philbert

 

[old guy]

Sounds good, next time I see ya I'll buy one from ya, since mine didn't survive it's first outing.

 

[Philbert]

Update

1. I LOVE USING THESE STICKS

- Much easier and faster than marking with chalk, crayon, paint, etc., or rotating the saw 90° each time to measure with the guide bar.
- They work on straight logs, as well as bent branches (e.g. cutting 'tops' into stove wood).
- Very easy to change Right side to Left side, etc., depending on the wood being cut.
- I got really pretty, neat, firewood stacks (if that is something that you care about).

I discovered that I really like 14" wood better for my stove (fits easier and larger rounds are easier to split). One tote that I use to store / carry wood is only 11-1/2 inches wide, so I cut some shorter to fit width-wise instead of length-wise. Neither of these was a problem with the calibrated, hi-viz tape markings.

2. THEY WILL FLY!

- I tried to intentionally knock the magnetic sticks off the guide bar, by bumping them against the wood. Sticks with stiffer rods, or smaller magnets, released more easily than more flexible rods or stronger magnets (see earlier post).

- The sticks did not 'fall' off the guide bar when bumped, as much as they 'slid' or rolled to a new position - this could be against the moving chain, if not nestled securely between deep bucking dogs.

- A surprise was cutting wood in a sawbuck - the 'X' frames of the sawbuck frequently bumped the measuring sticks out of position. This was not as much an issue when bucking on the ground.

- Another user commented on similar movement of the stick while trying to cut up trees with the limbs still attached: probably not the best application for these devices.

* My recommendation is to use the measuring sticks for marking only, in any situation where they could get knocked into the rotating chain.* Pretty simple and easy to remove them from the bar, and place them in a rear pocket, when not needed.

3. Next Steps?

I thought that these measuring sticks were a gadget when received, but am now sold on them: simple, convenient, practical, consistent, . . .

I was impressed with the 2 commercial versions I tested. If I make a 'Gen 3 Philbert' version, they will use the 70-pound magnets, with a smooth base and threaded male stud, and more flexible rods.

Philbert

 

[merc_man]

Glad you are likeing the measureing stick.
I love the one i made. Could use a little stronger magnet but other then that works ausome.
I like using mine at the end of the bar and walk the tree and so the pre marking them go back and buck it up. This works best for me.
1. dont have to bend over to mark.
2. My son cuts as well so now dont got to worrt about different length blocks.
3. As you stated philbert the piles look neater and easyer to stack.




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[old guy]

It looks like I'me on the other end of the like meter here. The one I made was used by someone else and all I got back was the shaft sans magnet, so I don't know the story,
Philbert was kind enough to give me another one which I put on a 346 with a 16'' bar to cut up some box elder & elm with limbs still attached, 2'' to about 16'' stuff that my brother had dragged into a pile.
I put the stick on the back end right side of the bar & started cutting from the top end of the tree moving to my left, life is good all pieces are the the same length, "whoops" just bumped the stick on another limb, gotta slide it back.
I flip the saw sideways to cut off a limb & hit the stick on the log & knock it up onto the chain, slide it back in place, cut off two more pieces of trunk and notice the stick is gone, I find it about 8' in front of me and it has suffered some, so I put it back on the saw & cut a few more chunks & zing there it goes again, this time I pick it up & throw it back over my shoulder towards my Jeep.
What happens is it slides down or gets pushed or knocked down till it hits the chain, then the chain links keep hitting it & slideing it all the way to the end of the bar, being magnetic it sticks to the edge of the bar & the chain gets to wail on it for the length of the bar.
I find this device not suitable to my ways. YMMV

 

[Philbert]

Thanks for your post John (fair notice to others - we talked about this 'off line').

As noted earlier, these measuring sticks work best when marking (or maybe even cutting) trunks, stems, branches, etc. which have already been limbed. This is the kind of wood that most people (IMO) would be marking with other methods (chalk, crayon, Mingo markers, etc.). I asked John to try it again on that kind of wood.

But, yeah, if there are a lot of branches, cross pieces, saw buck legs, etc., it is possible to knock these sticks out of position, into the chain, and to launch them.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

This reminds me of what happens whenever I loan out my equipment to someone else. It usually comes back in shambles.

I think the guy got the measuring stick mixed up with the sticks he was cutting. A stick is a stick, right?

 

[Philbert]

Made a Set for Denny's Interfaith Firewood Ministry Volunteers



Philbert

 

[redoakneck]

Definitely a learning curve using these sticks. I have messed a couple of my homemade ones up.


Good tip--. Buy some individual magnets and stick them on the expensive ones in case the magnet runs into the chain, you just grab a new one

 

[Philbert]

Are you talking about stacking magnets?

I have decided that these sticks are best for just marking the wood, in most situations, and removing them for through cuts.

Exception might be for small diameter wood, where there is little chance of hitting the wand.

Philbert

 

[redoakneck]

Yes, just put one the same size or a little bigger diameter right on the commercial one.

Also tucking them tight into the feeling spike/ dawg keeps them in place.

Definitely just mark first with an inch deep cut, remove the stick, then hammer away!!

Stick can move during full bucking cuts, especially in the middle of the bar.

Pretty cool having really uniform logs, worth it if that matters for your application.

 

[redoakneck]

That 6 pack case of sticks looks cool!!!

 

[Philbert]

That 6 pack case of sticks looks cool!!!

Thanks. I made the holder to help him keep track of them in a busy work environment, with lots of different volunteers.

Philbert

 

[mels]

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...g-Attachments/Ott-Accu-Stick-Pro-14-to-26.axd


Call me cheap, and I'll be the second to agree with that statement lol but dang man a guy can buy a lifetime of 10 or 20' lengths of white 1/2 or 3/4" PVC pipe for what they get for one of these.

And though I could be wrong, so far aside from white birch I haven't seen anything in nature that lays on the ground or leans up against anything that is white, straight like an arrow and is by coincidence the length of the firewood being cut.



Here's the thing:

Small, top handle saw begging to be used.

Piece of measuring stick in one hand - saw in the other.

A guy can cover a lot of ground in a hurry marking out a log without having to square up to it for each "cut".

Nice gadget, and who doesn't like that kinda thing? Yet for me, I think for the little amount I'd ever use it I'll stick with the PVC.

Cool find though man, thanks for turning us on to it. Sure got a lot of creative juices flowing in this thread, and isn't that what it's all about anyway?

 

[Philbert]

And though I could be wrong, so far aside from white birch I haven't seen anything in nature that lays on the ground or leans up against anything that is white, . .

You live in Tennessee. We have snow! But some spray paint, or rings of colored tape, can help with that.

Small, top handle saw begging to be used. Piece of measuring stick in one hand - saw in the other. A guy can cover a lot of ground in a hurry marking out a log . . .

Sorry - the 'Safety Guy' in me does not like the idea of a top handled saw being used one-handed, especially 'in a hurry'!

Call me cheap, and I'll be the second to agree with that statement lol but dang man a guy can buy a lifetime of 10 or 20' lengths of white 1/2 or 3/4" PVC pipe for what they get for one of these.

"Cheap"! (I prefer 'frugal' myself).

Some of the alternate products mentioned sell for as low as $14 shipped. I got the ones I made down to under $6 each.

Cool find though man, thanks for turning us on to it. Sure got a lot of creative juices flowing in this thread, and isn't that what it's all about anyway?

Thanks! That is what these forums are all about!

Philbert

 

[redoakneck]

If you have people that demand a certain length, they are perfect. I cut a lot of wood, and eyeballing for me is difficult because of the difference in diameters in the the logs.

I know if I mark them, they are spot on. I have one guy that stacks his wood really high and complains if they are not perfect

 

[mikey517]

I cut to 16". I make a fist, and the distance from elbow to knuckles is 16" give or take a smidge.

Always have it with me, and is easily stored when actually cutting!

 

[RI Chevy]

Stick is easier. They work great!

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[Wood Doctor]

If you have people that demand a certain length, they are perfect. I cut a lot of wood, and eyeballing for me is difficult because of the difference in diameters in the the logs.

I know if I mark them, they are spot on. I have one guy that stacks his wood really high and complains if they are not perfect

One of my customers has to have 18" or less. Any log that I deliver over 18" will be rejected. I usually have to have an exact 18" log handy while loading the truck and use that to check the rest. I save the longer logs for fireplace customers.

This guy knows that I have a 6' box n the truck. So, I always show him four rows of logs packed tight, so that the average has to be under 18" per log. Usually, that satisfies him. I've told this story to other customers and they shake their heads in disbelief.

 

[RI Chevy]

If one has a wood stove, the stove decides the length. You are safe at 16" log lengths for most stoves. Anything longer, and you cant get the logs into the stove.

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