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Simondo

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Yes, a lot av variables are involved (you didn't mention that .325 will have more cutters in the wood, on average, provided the chain speed is the same) - and there really is only one way to find out for sure what "works best" for each application.

That only is practical to some extent of course, so in the real world it will be a matter of priority what the options actually are tested for.

Then there is the exact brand and model of chain, and different ways to file them of course.....

Would I do all this? Absolutely not, at best selected parts of it! :D
Yea the variations are plenty and i had overlooked the number of teeth in the cut as you pointed out :D...I make no claim that this is the optimum way to go , but for those who want to try a few subtle changes it might be to there advantage.
Its a cheep way to do a experiment for me as i have all the bits to change around.
 

Wilhelm

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This might be a stupid question and is definitely off topic, but on the subject of pitch swap to find a optimal handling and cutting performance how does a 3/8" LowProfile compare to a .325" chain given that tooth geometry is identical and the same PH is used.
I just wonder because I don't have any .325" loops to compare against my 3/8"LP and full 3/8" loops.

3/8" LP is considerably smaller and lighter that full 3/8", that I know as these are chains I use on my saws.
3/8" LP looks like a toy chain compared to a full 3/8" loop! :)
 

Simondo

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This might be a stupid question and is definitely off topic, but on the subject of pitch swap to find a optimal handling and cutting performance how does a 3/8" LowProfile compare to a .325" chain given that tooth geometry is identical and the same PH is used.
I just wonder because I don't have any .325" loops to compare against my 3/8"LP and full 3/8" loops.

3/8" LP is considerably smaller and lighter that full 3/8", that I know as these are chains I use on my saws.
3/8" LP looks like a toy chain compared to a full 3/8" loop! :)
3/8 lp isnt chain i use but i do have a new loop i can put alongside some .325 for you when i get in the shop tomorrow. You sure the geometry is the same as the sprocket needed is different from .325 ? Will pop a pic up unless someone comes back with info. :)
 

Wilhelm

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3/8 lp isnt chain i use but i do have a new loop i can put alongside some .325 for you when i get in the shop tomorrow. You sure the geometry is the same as the sprocket needed is different from .325 ? Will pop a pic up unless someone comes back with info. :)
I kinda knew I didn't properly express what I meant!
Apologies for that.

I meant if comparing 3/8"LP to .325" that the tooth shape/geometry is identical like semi chisel to semi chisel, and chisel to chisel tooth - not round tooth to chisel.

I know that the pitch is smaller on the .325", but how much difference is there in the teeth themselves.
From what I can see a 3/8"LP makes an extremely narrow cut but can be very aggressive - so how would it behave compared to a .325" paired with a higher cc PH (mine are 40cc, 1.7kW, 2.1HP).

Again apologies for the confusion.
 

Simondo

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I kinda knew I didn't properly express what I meant!
Apologies for that.

I meant if comparing 3/8"LP to .325" that the tooth shape/geometry is identical like semi chisel to semi chisel, and chisel to chisel tooth - not round tooth to chisel.

I know that the pitch is smaller on the .325", but how much difference is there in the teeth themselves.
From what I can see a 3/8"LP makes an extremely narrow cut but can be very aggressive - so how would it behave compared to a .325" paired with a higher cc PH (mine are 40cc, 1.7kW, 2.1HP).

Again apologies for the confusion.
No apologies needed Wilhelm...as i say 3/8 lp is not something i know much about so it will be a learning thing for me. I know Andrew (@ajschainsaws ) amongst others on here use Lp and may be able to say more.
 

huskihl

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No apologies needed Wilhelm...as i say 3/8 lp is not something i know much about so it will be a learning thing for me. I know Andrew (@ajschainsaws ) amongst others on here use Lp and may be able to say more.
In my limited experience with 3/8 lp vs .325, the narrower lp is faster up until about 12-14" wood. From there on up, the .325 takes over as there isn't enough room for chip clearance in 3/8lp. Noodling with lp isn't very effective
 

CoreyB

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You don't even halve to put any effort just slowly pull the rope out and it starts. Makes these saws head and shoulders above some others. I know it seems silly but using it all dat starting it 30 plus times just makes other saws seem way out of date.
 

Simondo

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Playing with the 421 today going back and forth between Oregon 95vpx, 95txl. 325nk and 3/8lp Stihl ps, 91vxl.
All I can say is man I LOVE HOW EASY These Dolmars start. 1 pull every time many times just a half a pull does it
MPI coil works well indeed Corey...5105 without a bulb takes a few more pulls on cold start to pull fuel up ,but once run it is the same as the 420/421 and 6100.
 

CoreyB

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I have had my 6100 start on me unexpected before. It had sat for over a week. No priming no choke. I just pulled the cord messing around showing a buddy how easy it pulls and the damn thing started. He went out and bought a 6100 that week.
 

ajschainsaws

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In my limited experience with 3/8 lp vs .325, the narrower lp is faster up until about 12-14" wood. From there on up, the .325 takes over as there isn't enough room for chip clearance in 3/8lp. Noodling with lp isn't very effective

I like the 3/8 lo-pro on the 420 I've been reducing a lot of trees these last few weeks with this saw and I changed out the Dolmar 3/8 050 bar after having a fight with a twisty knarly yew tree which didn't do it any good ,replaced it with a Sugihara .043 bar and stihl chain it makes a lot cleaner cut on pruning jobs
And it's fast , but as you say up to the bigger 12" - 14" wood then the .325 is better
 

ajschainsaws

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Yes that's true Corey. I gotta granberg 18" .325 050 semi skip milling chain that I must get it on the 6100 and do a bit of milling one day and see how it fares
 

KiwiBro (deleted)

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In my limited experience with 3/8 lp vs .325, the narrower lp is faster up until about 12-14" wood. From there on up, the .325 takes over as there isn't enough room for chip clearance in 3/8lp.
Anyone tried:
  1. tunelling
  2. releiving the back of the cutters
  3. semi-skip LP
  4. thinning the rakers
?

Learning if LP can work well in bigger wood is on my list for this Summer. It's working very well up to about 16" buried in wood, but beyond that it isn't the best option...yet. I'd like to see what I can do to maximise LP with a 20" bar or maybe even longer, buried in various logs. Also, to learn how well a longer LP chain will oil a bar.
 

huskihl

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Anyone tried:
  1. tunelling
  2. releiving the back of the cutters
  3. semi-skip LP
  4. thinning the rakers
?

Learning if LP can work well in bigger wood is on my list for this Summer. It's working very well up to about 16" buried in wood, but beyond that it isn't the best option...yet. I'd like to see what I can do to maximise LP with a 20" bar or maybe even longer, buried in various logs. Also, to learn how well a longer LP chain will oil a bar.
I'm sure someone has, but not me
@Cut4fun and @mdavlee would know
 

mdavlee

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Lo pro clearing chips is the problem. It's small and weaker than the bigger chain when you go to long bars. Logosol used it up to a 32" for their mill. I wouldn't recommend going longer than that. I never played with it much. I like 3/8" full size for everything.
 

Cut4fun

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I've heard about 3/8lp breaking on the stronger saws in the cuts. Would guess it would wear faster to make weaker at the joints. Just all a WAG

I've tried 20" 3/8lp for kicks but only on a 45cc saw. Also wouldnt be scared to do it up to a stock 60cc. But I prefer full 3/8 50cc up
 
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