Fat ass dolmars

[ajschainsaws]

I run 3/8 on my 6100. 18-20" runs LGX, 24 runs JGX. My 421 is 3/8lp. VXL or Stihl PS. The Stihl PS is great on the 421.

Yes agree I run the same sort of combination but today I changed it out for a sugi bar 3/8 lo pro 1.1mm 043 and still micro chisel chain

 

[CoreyB]

I run a lot of lgx on the 6100 both 20 and 24 inch. Stihl rs I'd nice as well.
The 421 has had a steady supply of vxl both 14 an 18 inch I have some Stihl ps to try as well as Oregon smi new speedcut. 325 set up. I ran a few cuts yesterday day with the .325 and with that aluminum core bar it might be a set up i run for a bit. Lol the 421 has turned into a bit of a bar hoe lol

 

[Simondo]

Swapped the 6100 over from 18" 3/8 bar and chain to a 18" .325 combo (a factory option) . Chain and bar used...Oregon LPX .325 1.5mm /Oregon Pro Lite bar.
As i hoped the gear down shift in the sprocket size from 3/8 7 pin to .325 7pin made a significant change to the power delivery of what is already a good runner.
In X cutting green beech up to approx 14" max the saw would with ease stay in the 10000 -11000 rpm bracket with a fair pressure and on 6in down timber ...well over 11000 rpm was common. Noodling a full bar length was still in the 10000-11000 with ease. On 3/8 it would get down to its 9000-10000 rpm range far more quickly and be using its Torque sooner in the cut. I bet on a .325.. 20 in bar it would be able to hold up rpm better than 3/8 as well. This saw is only on its 3 rd tank and is "Totally " stock.
Those of you that have Husqvarna saws on small mount bars may have bars you could swap onto the Dolmar...try..see what you think.

 

[SawTroll]

Swapped the 6100 over from 18" 3/8 bar and chain to a 18" .325 combo (a factory option) . Chain and bar used...Oregon LPX .325 1.5mm /Oregon Pro Lite bar.
As i hoped the gear down shift in the sprocket size from 3/8 7 pin to .325 7pin made a significant change to the power delivery of what is already a good runner.
In X cutting green beech up to approx 14" max the saw would with ease stay in the 10000 -11000 rpm bracket with a fair pressure and on 6in down timber ...well over 11000 rpm was common. Noodling a full bar length was still in the 10000-11000 with ease. On 3/8 it would get down to its 9000-10000 rpm range far more quickly and be using its Torque sooner in the cut. I bet on a .325.. 20 in bar it would be able to hold up rpm better than 3/8 as well. This saw is only on its 3 rd tank and is "Totally " stock.
Those of you that have Husqvarna saws on small mount bars may have bars you could swap onto the Dolmar...try..see what you think.


View attachment 38216

There is of course a reason that .325 is very popular on 60cc saws in Europe (and by a very experienced Canadian sawyer on another forum) - but I have no firm opinion on it, as I haven't tried yet.

My ol' (Euro version) MS361 really liked 3/8"x8 in smaller wood though - as soon as the wood got larger than 10-12" it didn't work as well - and I expect the outcome to vary a lot with what you cut, and operator technique.

3/8"x7 and .325x8 looks like reasonable compromises, if what you cut vary (it usually does) - in large wood with relatively long bars. .325x7 may be best. What works best will of course vary with the exact chain model and how it is filed as well.

My real point is that there aren't any "carved in stone" answers, you need to try the options yourself.

 

[Simondo]

There is of course a reason that .325 is very popular on 60cc saws in Europe (and by a very experienced Canadian sawyer on another forum) - but I have no firm opinion on it, as I haven't tried yet.

My ol' (Euro version) MS361 really liked 3/8"x8 in smaller wood though - as soon as the wood got larger than 10-12" it didn't work as well - and I expect the outcome to vary a lot with what you cut, and operator technique.

3/8"x7 and .325x8 looks like reasonable compromises, if what you cut vary (it usually does) - in large wood with relatively long bars. .325x7 may be best. What works best will of course vary with the exact chain model and how it is filed as well.

My real point is that there aren't any "carved in stone" answers, you need to try the options yourself.

I think the 60 cc class is where the mix and match of size of bar and chain combinations can get interesting. Doubtful many will go for 3/8 (large) on the 50 cc class and unlikely to go for .325 on a 70cc saw... "There will be exceptions though".
Only ever had 3/8 on my ms 361 ...most chains and bars i have that interchange are the small mount Husq so haven't spent money in a change for the 361.
Agreed ....its a individual thing and probably more tailored to those who have multi saw set ups rather than 1 saw for general duty.

 

[exSW]

The 6100 has the ass to run the bigger more aggressive chain. It's not just speed but how big a bite you take at that speed that determines your rate of cut.

 

[Nitehawk55]

The 6100 I just got came with the .325 and 20" bar so maybe Dolmar thinks this combo is best ? , I always thought 3/8" on a 60cc saw was the norm .
I will say I had it in some bar length hard maple and it kept on cutting without any noticable bog .

 

[Ryan Browne]

I'm in the unfortunate situation of having saws and bars for 3/8lp, .325nk, .325, and 3/8. I guess it's not that bad, just lots of files and sprockets to stock.

Personally, if my saw will pull it, I'd rather run regular 3/8 pitch. It's quite a bit easier to sharpen by hand and seems to hold up a little better than the smaller stuff. Limbing and thinning is okay with the smaller stuff, but for felling and bucking, give me the bigger chain.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Noodled this

into this with a 6100 and a 7910. 2/3 of it with the 6100. all the rounds were over 24". Once I get it stacked there should be over 2 cord.

 

[ajschainsaws]

I think the 60 cc class is where the mix and match of size of bar and chain combinations can get interesting. Doubtful many will go for 3/8 (large) on the 50 cc class and unlikely to go for .325 on a 70cc saw... "There will be exceptions though".
Only ever had 3/8 on my ms 361 ...most chains and bars i have that interchange are the small mount Husq so haven't spent money in a change for the 361.
Agreed ....its a individual thing and probably more tailored to those who have multi saw set ups rather than 1 saw for general duty.

Great post Simon 10 / 10 for making the time to try these combos and it's an individual thing as you say but saying that it's surprising what results show up at the end of the day an open mind is always a good thing
I had a husqvarna's 560 it came with a .325 chain and I wasn't impressed put a 3/8 and it defiantly felt better
For me I would sooner have a 60cc on 3/8 if doing a lot of hardwood and keep the saw down in that torque band pulling that Dolmar 099 chain into the wood
And let the smaller saws do the revving and spooling of the .325

 

[SawTroll]

The 6100 has the ass to run the bigger more aggressive chain. It's not just speed but how big a bite you take at that speed that determines your rate of cut.

Most 60cc saws have, and I have stayed with 3/8" on 60cc saws so far - that says nothing about what really works best in a given situation though - there may be surprises in store for those that care to experiment and find out.

 

[ajschainsaws]

Most 60cc saws have, and I have stayed with 3/8" on 60cc saws so far - that says nothing about what really works best in a given situation though - there may be surprises in store for those that care to experiment and find out.

Very true everybody likes a surprise or two
on another subject have you had any experience with the iggesund R2 bars ?

 

[Ryan Browne]

Most 60cc saws have, and I have stayed with 3/8" on 60cc saws so far - that says nothing about what really works best in a given situation though - there may be surprises in store for those that care to experiment and find out.

Right you are, and "works best" might have different meanings to different users too. Some of us are only happy when a saw cuts really fast. Others want a chain that lasts longer between sharpenings. Some of us want to be able to bore cut, some of us need a saw a 15 year old can run.

Good thing that the manufacturers give us many choices.

 

[David Young]

Can you guys tell if this is a 6000 or 6800 without checking the bore.

 

[166]

Can you guys tell if this is a 6000 or 6800 without checking the bore.

Should be a metal serial number plate underneath the clutch.

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

 

[exSW]

Can you guys tell if this is a 6000 or 6800 without checking the bore.

Send it to me ,I'll look for you.

 

[SawTroll]

Very true everybody likes a surprise or two
on another subject have you had any experience with the iggesund R2 bars ?

No, I stay away as they are very heavy (as far as I know), and doesn't have a replaceable nose. I have also been told that the steel initially was rather soft, but allegedly is has been improved?

 

[Simondo]

The 6100 I just got came with the .325 and 20" bar so maybe Dolmar thinks this combo is best ? , I always thought 3/8" on a 60cc saw was the norm .
I will say I had it in some bar length hard maple and it kept on cutting without any noticable bog .

This is the reason i did the test.......I never gave it a second thought until spotting that Dolmar offer the 6100 in the 2 chain sizes . When my 5105 came on 3/8 instead of .325 i started to study the charts closely and found that both saws come with these options. After swapping sprockets and chains on the 5105 for (finally ) 1.3 ... .325 chain but keeping 7 pin drive sprocket size thus gaining the gear down effect from the 7 pin 3/8 sprocket diameter plus the slightly narrower cut on .325 , I figured it was worth a try on the bigger saw. Both chains in standard form have the rakers at the same hight so i figure with 3/8 you take a slightly wider slot but not more depth with the teeth. The narrow kerf bars and chains that are popular in the US have this advantage to lighten the load and remove less width pro rata of cut depth. This along with allowing the saw to maintain a higher rpm in load conditions compared to the 3/8 set up ...But..still having the torque available as rpm drop "May" !! be advantageous ..plus the gearing down effect from the sprocket diameter "Should allow that torque to be more effective . ..I think !!

 

[Wilhelm]

... on another subject have you had any experience with the iggesund R2 bars ?

The look and feel are very high quality, the rails seem to be really hard, the nose sprocket is supposed to be Oregon's from what I could figure out.
They are laser cut solid steel bars and as such heavier than laminated ones.
I only own a 36" Iggesund Forest bar, as such it doesn't see much use.
I am considering to purchase a Iggesund Forest 24" to mix thing up a bit as I almost exclusively use Dolmar/Oregon.
I wouldn't worry regarding the tip, nor do I care about weight - but I am not a logger thus my bar/saw requirements are different.

Iggesund Forest also offers laminated bars, for smaller saws I think:


In the spirit of this thread, the beauty and the beast:

Dolmar PS-7900 & Iggesund Forest R2 36"

Hint: She's the beauty

 

[SawTroll]

This is the reason i did the test.......I never gave it a second thought until spotting that Dolmar offer the 6100 in the 2 chain sizes . When my 5105 came on 3/8 instead of .325 i started to study the charts closely and found that both saws come with these options. After swapping sprockets and chains on the 5105 for (finally ) 1.3 ... .325 chain but keeping 7 pin drive sprocket size thus gaining the gear down effect from the 7 pin 3/8 sprocket diameter plus the slightly narrower cut on .325 , I figured it was worth a try on the bigger saw. Both chains in standard form have the rakers at the same hight so i figure with 3/8 you take a slightly wider slot but not more depth with the teeth. The narrow kerf bars and chains that are popular in the US have this advantage to lighten the load and remove less width pro rata of cut depth. This along with allowing the saw to maintain a higher rpm in load conditions compared to the 3/8 set up ...But..still having the torque available as rpm drop "May" !! be advantageous ..plus the gearing down effect from the sprocket diameter "Should allow that torque to be more effective . ..I think !!

Yes, a lot av variables are involved (you didn't mention that .325 will have more cutters in the wood, on average, provided the chain speed is the same) - and there really is only one way to find out for sure what "works best" for each application.

That only is practical to some extent of course, so in the real world it will be a matter of priority what the options actually are tested for.

Then there is the exact brand and model of chain, and different ways to file them of course.....

Would I do all this? Absolutely not, at best selected parts of it!