FarmerTec 660 "Kit" - What's the latest on quality?

[stihl_head1982]

Collecting more good information!

 

[stihl_head1982]

I have the 660 kit with the MMWS cross cylinder and the 361 kit with a big bore kit with gasket delete. Both saws are around 195 psi and have advanced timing and muffler mods. Both saws are runners
Replaced the crap handle on the 660 with a wrap handle. The 361 will outcut a bunch of other guys 60cc saws with ease. Got a 25" bar on both the 361 is great for all but the big stuff.

Were you able to buy the kit and add the Cross cylinder (at HL supply?). Or just purchase it separate?

 

[Larry B]

I bought the saw kit from hutzl and the MMWS kit from HL

 

[gurwald]

I got a little further on my 660 build, I Have only cleaned and straightened out the ports a bit and the port timings are a bit off.

exhaust is at 95 atdc
transferes at 125 atdc
and intake at 88 abdc

I tried without the base gasket and the piston would hit the ceiling, with base gasket measured to .020" i got .026 so probably uneven squish.

yikes

Too bad about the intake I dont feel comfortable using epoxy in the cylinder.
I could cut the squish and turn the base down but I am also thinking I should just run it as it is, or just raise the transferes maybe 5 degrees..?

 

[MustangMike]

That is what I would do. Raise the transfer a bit, your Ex is fine, but I would make sure it is as wide as possible.

Then I would run it, since it has a base gasket removing the cylinder is not such a big deal (a lot more work when gluing it).

If it sucks gas like crazy, I would remove the cylinder and epoxy it, otherwise I would leave it alone.

I would also order and extra muffler (they are cheap). Try one with just a 1/2" hole drilled through the back of the baffle, then get another and remove the baffle all together and see which one runs better. It will likely depend on how aggressive your porting is, but the one with the 1/2" hole may give you better fuel economy.

 

[Jason628]

Got the part for my chain brake today. Hopefully the muffler doesn't melt the handle...

 

[Jason628]

Picture of the funny fitment on the cover.

 

[gurwald]

Two more hickups, I guess its a common problem with the breakhandle interfering with the muffler, will have to clear that a bit.

The clutch drum wont fit over the clutchbearing, too tight I will take some measure at work but I will turn the inside bearingsurface, make it a few thou bigger.
Also the clutch bearing roller retainer has a crack but I will try it anyway.

 

[stihl_head1982]

Two more hickups, I guess its a common problem with the breakhandle interfering with the muffler, will have to clear that a bit.View attachment 275028

The clutch drum wont fit over the clutchbearing, too tight I will take some measure at work but I will turn the inside bearingsurface, make it a few thou bigger.
Also the clutch bearing roller retainer has a crack but I will try it anyway.

Is that the supplied muffer or an aftermarket replacement?

 

[gurwald]

Its the one that came in the set.

 

[Nutball]

I have found the clutch bearing to be tight, I rotate the clutch while pushing it on.

 

[MustangMike]

Fitting the clutch drum and bearing was often difficult, but I was always abel to get it to work, sometimes changing the order (or method) of assembly. (Do you put the bearing one first, or insert it in the drum).

Sometimes you have to move the brake band around a bit.

It involves some tinkering.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Interesting that you say about putting bearing in after the clutch drum is fitted. I’ve never thought of that.. it makes sense now even thou stihl would say it’s not correct

 

[gurwald]

It would just bind on the bearing, with or without the break band in place, but it's working now.

 

[Nutball]

I had the hardest time getting the piston pin in on one of my kits. I was convinced the hole was too small. Then all of a sudden it slid right in, no problem.

 

[Jason628]

Did a few test cuts on a piece of pine about 1ft in diameter and it went through it like a hot knife through butter. She's definitely the most powerful saw I've ran. Currently have a 24" cross bar and a full skip full chisel oregon chain on it. Just got a full comp in the mail and a tach.

 

[MustangMike]

Pine is no match for it, and I even run full comp on36" bars, but in softwood skip may be better at clearing the chips with that size bar.

Glad it runs well.

What (if any) modifications did you do?

 

[Jason628]

I'm going to be cutting mostly pine, fir and tamarack. I'll play around with the chains and see which one I like better by running them back to back on the same piece of wood. Only mods are the hyway pop-up and metal base gasket. Intake port had a U shape to it on the roof. I straightened that out and smoothed out all the edges around the ports. High speed on the carb was two turns out. I turned it in a 1/4 of a turn. I'll leave it alone until I get a few hours on it. I'm trying to find four people that want one of these clones so I can do a bulk order and have some more projects.

 

[Larry B]

Mod the muffler and file the key to advance the timing. Makes a noricable difference.

 

[Jason628]

Mod the muffler and file the key to advance the timing. Makes a noricable difference.

Yeah I'm going to order a couple keys in case I mess one up. Also going to get a few more muffler and base gaskets to keep on hand. Going to pull the cylinder after I get some run time on it and look everything over. It's been cold and snowy/rainy here so I haven't been able to get out and play.