FarmerTec 660 "Kit" - What's the latest on quality?

[Nutball]

I thought that's where it went, then I saw I did have something there, then checked on diyspareparts and my eyes saw it they way I put it together the first time.

 

[Cmarti]

For everyone who used hyway piston & cylinders, is it because of performance or have there been failures with the Farmertec? My kit was recent and the cylinder looked OK but for flat ports. I chamfered them. I may upgrade, but would like to do it when I decide, rather than rebuild from a meltdown. The new kit came with OEM style circlips, so the only thing I changed was the piston pin bearing to OEM.

 

[Jason628]

For everyone who used hyway piston & cylinders, is it because of performance or have there been failures with the Farmertec? My kit was recent and the cylinder looked OK but for flat ports. I chamfered them. I may upgrade, but would like to do it when I decide, rather than rebuild from a meltdown. The new kit came with OEM style circlips, so the only thing I changed was the piston pin bearing to OEM.

From what I have read. Most people don't use the farmertec cylinder because of the port timing being off or squish being off. They also vary in plating quality. My kit was recent too and I used the farmertec cylinder and hyway pop-up. Ports needed a little cleanup. Squish was good and port timing seems close. The farmertec piston looked decent and probably would have sufficient but, I had ordered the high comp and wanted to use it.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I was just joshing you guys. That's the farmertec circlip. I used the hyway ones. Notice the FT ones don't have tangs on them anymore. I have somewhere another pack of screws and one for the handle. They gave me two of the little chain brake springs and no detent lever. Better to have too many screws than not enough hahaha

Hyway clips are junk imo. Over compress one and then do it to a used OEM clip.

For everyone who used hyway piston & cylinders, is it because of performance or have there been failures with the Farmertec? My kit was recent and the cylinder looked OK but for flat ports. I chamfered them. I may upgrade, but would like to do it when I decide, rather than rebuild from a meltdown. The new kit came with OEM style circlips, so the only thing I changed was the piston pin bearing to OEM.

Farmertec plating is sad in the ones I've seen so no thanks.
Hyways has OEM style clips but not the same wire imo. Pistons are hit and miss so I switched to Meteor. They still must be checked out thoroughly. You can also keep those taper ground cheap wrist pins. Still too many parts need replacing for me to build them from kits and sell. Hit and Miss isn't the building blocks for piece of mind and few comebacks... but good luck. Many right from the box as is seem to be surviving a few runs on the mill but given some time the bearing and piston wear is terrible I'd bet. Only one way to find out it seems.

 

[Cmarti]

Hyway clips are junk imo. Over compress one and then do it to a used OEM clip.

Farmertec plating is sad in the ones I've seen so no thanks.
Hyways has OEM style clips but not the same wire imo. Pistons are hit and miss so I switched to Meteor. They still must be checked out thoroughly. You can also keep those taper ground cheap wrist pins. Still too many parts need replacing for me to build them from kits and sell. Hit and Miss isn't the building blocks for piece of mind and few comebacks... but good luck. Many right from the box as is seem to be surviving a few runs on the mill but given some time the bearing and piston wear is terrible I'd bet. Only one way to find out it seems.

I went into the build with an only one way to find out attitude, and I needed a bigger saw. So no regrets. If I lose a clip or ring, I guess my decision to upgrade will be made for me. Give me something to do....

I have used caber rings in rebuilds with aftermarket cylinders, but one of the video builders was warning the cabers would chew up the farmertec cylinder. So I went with what came in the kit. Compression was only 145 or so after the build. With 5 tanks, I should check it again

 

[Lightning Performance]

I went into the build with an only one way to find out attitude, and I needed a bigger saw. So no regrets. If I lose a clip or ring, I guess my decision to upgrade will be made for me. Give me something to do....

I have used caber rings in rebuilds with aftermarket cylinders, but one of the video builders was warning the cabers would chew up the farmertec cylinder. So I went with what came in the kit. Compression was only 145 or so after the build. With 5 tanks, I should check it again

Wow that's low. My old reliable stock 660 is getting tired at 155 hot. I'd go in and look at the piston and rings. You have options to fix your saw and upgrade if it does not grenade... many don't. If you get a hundred tanks from it call that a win.

 

[Nutball]

My FT 660 was 145psi hot.

 

[Larry B]

My 660 clone with Cross MMWS cylinder and hyway popup piston and gasket delete runs 195psi. MMWS cylinder with piston it came with had to run base gasket or piston hit cylinder. Runs 190 psi.

 

[Nutball]

My MMWS cylinder must be up there then with about .030 of popup and no gasket. I never tested it as it is not easy to pull.

 

[Jason628]

My MMWS cylinder must be up there then with about .030 of popup and no gasket. I never tested it as it is not easy to pull.

I've had the decomp pop and RIP the handle out of my hand a few times but, I'm kind of a wuss.

 

[Nutball]

I don't have the valve on my 145psi cylinder, and it does that because of the timing advance. I have used my cross cylinder plugged too, but even with a decomp valve, the Stihl design is such it closes too easily.

 

[Larry B]

On my 361 and 660 clones running about 195psi i drilled the decomps. The 660 works good. The 361 closes the decomp every time you pull the recoil even drilled out. Tried OEM and 2 different AM. All did the same. The 361 is temperamental to get started cold. With the compression and the advanced timing if you don't pull it like ya mean it it rips the handle out of your fingers. Once you get it started it cuts like a 70cc saw.

 

[gurwald]

Just an update on my china 660.

Only put one tank through it, had some issues with it tripping the shut off switch from the vibrations, tried fiddeling with it but ended up just removing the wire and kill it with the choke instead.
Other than that its pretty strong and thirsty 88deg intake...

 

[Cooper264]

I've probably said this in another thread somewhere but I have built a few dozen 660 clones and sold them. I never replace any parts with oem, I don't want people to think by any means that they are getting oem quality parts in any aspect of these saws. Only complaints I have had are from assembly error, not tightening flywheels enough and such. No complaints on parts holding up. I have one that I use for personal use, might get it out every once and a while to fell and buck the bottom half of a large tree, does pretty good for an all stock aftermarket saw. All that being said, I still wouldn't sell or recommend these saws to anyone that uses them for their profession. Yes the OEM costs double or more, but the quality of all the parts involved, warranty, and etc. are well worth the extra green if it gets used hard day in and day out.

 

[Wood Chopper]

Still going. Haha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jason628]

Got two more. Just opened one up and seals are not installed. Guess they are listening lol

 

[Jason628]

Started putting another one together. Cleaned all the crappy paint off the inside of the case and flushed bearing several times. Got crank and seals installed. Cylinder needs a little work but, not terrible from what I can tell so far. Just going to square up the intake port and smoothen it out and knock the edges off the ports. Chain tensioner needs a bit of work as well.... nothing I cant fix with a dremel. haha

 

[Jason628]

Got a little crazy with it. If it runs like dog crap at least cylinders are cheap haha

 

[Nutball]

Looks fixable

 

[MustangMike]

What is your intake at?