FarmerTec 660 "Kit" - What's the latest on quality?

[Jason628]

So what is in the "ballpark" for squish? .020-.030?

 

[Jason628]

Also. Anyone know if the handles are still junk? H&L has the full wrap on sale right now.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

So what is in the "ballpark" for squish? .020-.030?

I haven't checked the squish on the 372 but .029 in the 660 is right on par with OEM.
But they vary even in OEM saws.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Also. Anyone know if the handles are still junk? H&L has the full wrap on sale right now.

The handle on the G660 (full wrap 3/4) seems beefy enough to to take a beating or normal usage.

 

[stihl_head1982]

The handle on the G660 (full wrap 3/4) seems beefy enough to to take a beating or normal usage.

So you guys ordered them already assembled? Just checking.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

So you guys ordered them already assembled? Just checking.

Yes already assembled, so take that with a grain of salt on the quality stuff. I always felt like less than stellar parts might end up in the kits.

 

[MustangMike]

For squish, .020 is ideal, but under .030 is VG. On many of the older Stihls (044/440, 046/460, 066/660 you could often delete the base gasket and end up with .020 squish, so factory they were about .037.

 

[Jason628]

Ordered a bunch of parts from H&L. Got a 20 and 24" bar coming. Hyway pop-up piston. 3/4 handle and a spare air filter. Was $107

 

[Jason628]

Supposed to get my farmertec kit today. Here is the rest of the stuff I ordered for the project.

 

[Jason628]

Just came in

 

[Jason628]

Got the cases together. Had a ton of aluminum shavings inside the cases. Cleaned it all out with carb clean and wd-40 and compressed air. Paint on the inside didn't like the carb clean so I scraped it all off.

 

[Jason628]

Well... I screwed up the clutch side seal trying to put it in. Got a little crooked and went too far. Going to have to wait for another set of seals. May use the one I popped out that came with it.. idk. Probably going to have to split the case to get the screwy one out.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The clutch side seal is easily pulled out with a drywall screw.
Iirc tap the screw with a hammer to puncture the metal then screw it in a bit and pull on it with some mole grips or pliers.

I found making two holes first, opposite each other and having two screws in

 

[Jason628]

The clutch side seal is easily pulled out with a drywall screw.
Iirc tap the screw with a hammer to puncture the metal then screw it in a bit and pull on it with some mole grips or pliers.

I found making two holes first, opposite each other and having two screws in

Yeah I thought about that. Was worried I might run the screw through the nylon cage on the bearing but, probably will try that.

 

[MustangMike]

I use one of the little notched screw drivers. Just file a little notch on a tuning screwdriver about 1/16" from the end and use that to pop the seal out.

I ruined that seal on two of them, did not pull either apart again.

 

[Jason628]

I got it back out without damaging anything. Going to get a better fitting socket to try to drive the other one in.

 

[MustangMike]

Be sure and lube it well. I often use Vaseline on the rubber part (or on the shaft were the rubber goes over).

 

[Jason628]

Got them in. Look relatively straight. I didn't have any 518 so I used motoseal on the outside and lubed the rubber part with wd.

 

[Jason628]

Squish with farmertec piston is .029 with paper gasket. Piston hits the head with no gasket. One of the cylinder screws does not fit in the hole. Will have to clearance around it to get it to drop in.

 

[MustangMike]

That sounds like a thick gasket! Usually they do not exceed .020. You should measure the gasket thickness.

Thinner gaskets can be made from soda cans, or purchased material.