ECHO Echo, Echo, Echo

[Ford3000]

They arent that heavy compared to other 66/67cc saws.
I'm not sure why people think that, but they are not heavy for their displacement.
I have 3 Shindaiwa 695's.
A little beefier than the 680, but the 695 comes in around 13.2 pounds (pho).
That's not heavy for a 68cc saw!
In fact its light!
Bulkiness of my Shindaiwa 695 (68cc) & Husky 272xp (72cc).
The Shinny weighs .5 pounds less, not to mention its slimmer, more nimble & to be honest you cant tell the difference in performance until u move to 24" or longer bar.
View attachment 362088

Thanks for posting the pics. I noticed the 680 looks slimmer than even the 620 saws,
and a fair bit lower and thinner than the 7310.

If I could get a 620 it would do my work fine, same place has a CS550 for sale, looks cleaner
too, but its down on power and on the same 60cc chassis, what were Echo thinking when they
came out with the CS550.

 

[Gullet]

You could run a 28" bar if needed on the Echo 680.
Doubt you could on a 620 (not with the same authority).

 

[Gullet]

Be aware, the Echo 680 takes a 8mm D176 bar mount which isn't that common & the chains are a unusual drive link count also (due to bar tensioner distance in relation to crank).
Not rare, but not that common either.

 

[Gullet]

Echo got smart in recent years & started using Poulan k041 or modded Husky k095 (smaller cc's) & Husky d009 mount bars (larger cc's).
Opened up the largest selection of bars & chains on the planet.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Be aware, the Echo 680 takes a 8mm D176 bar mount which isn't that common & the chains are a unusual drive link count also (due to bar tensioner distance in relation to crank).
Not rare, but not that common either.

Gullet,
The redbeard adaptors work purdy good. Just have to polish a smidgen off for the barplate screw location. Though it was for the cs 620, it works with 670/6700/680 too.

I had to us an adaptor, so I could use a 3/8 low profile milling bar only available for stihl mount.

Yep, i agree with you, the 680 is not heavy or bulky. They balance well with a 24" bar. With that redbeard adaptor, a cheap $60 24" versacut bar and a $30 loop of EXL chain, they're a nimble/affordable chainsaw.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Gullet,
The redbeard adaptors work purdy good. Just have to polish a smidgen off for the barplate screw location. Though it was for the cs 620, it works with 670/6700/680 too.

I had to us an adaptor, so I could use a 3/8 low profile milling bar only available for stihl mount.

Yep, i agree with you, the 680 is not heavy or bulky. They balance well with a 24" bar. With that redbeard adaptor, a cheap $60 24" versacut bar and a $30 loop of EXL chain, they're a nimble/affordable chainsaw.

I used the same type adapter for my McCulloch saws.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Link to a 28"

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Finally finished that qv-6700. There were a few difficulties:

The screws holding the big steel guard on the saw was difficult to get off. The screws were really on there. Had to get into my stash of echo chainsaw screws, as the quick vent guard screws were too long.

The flywheel wouldn't come loose after many attempts. Almost gave up on ignition advance, but sea foam deep creep helped.

The piston pin was too tight. Had to heat up piston on wood stove and cool off pin. Even then, still had to knock it in place with hammer. It was the oem echo piston kit with bearing, clips, piston and rings for $75.

Lotta challenges and too many hours for a cosmetically rough saw.

Port work is a little different than my last 6700 build. Im surpised how different the carb settings were, just from slight port shape changes.

Surprised that it doesnt need new seals, impulse/oil/fuel line. It started first pull after reassembly, so carb diaghram is good too.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

14 below zero, the saw cut well and started well. As the saw broke in, I began leaning it out and really pushing it. Could bury the entire 24" bar into frozen alaskan birch and it definitely has torque.

 

[Ford3000]

Anyone know if a 620 or 621 top end fits on the CS-550

 

[Piston Skirt]

Anyone know if a 620 or 621 top end fits on the CS-550

CS-550 has a 34mm stroke vs 37,6mm of 590-621 so even if bolt pattern would fit the rest of the project is pretty complicated.
They look very similar due to the same starter and few other parts used but there is a bunch of differences and most of the saw is different.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

I'm not sure, if they made 2 quad port upper cylinders the late 8000s were and the new 800 are. I want to say the qv I had was a quad port, but I can't say the transfers are larger than the cs800 quad port cylinder.

Joe,
I finally tore down that qv 8000. It had the older dual port cylinder and flat top piston. I'm gonna keep the dual port stuff as the p & c are in excellent shape.

If it was in rough shape, yes I'd spend the $136 on the quad transfer echo cylinder & piston kit.

Quad transfers aren't as big of a deal as some make it out to be. Look at the power of a stihl 064. Even stock, they have amazing power.

I'll do the usual cheapy home-job: timing advance, base gasket delete, open up muffler, polish transfers, open up exauhst port. Will even keep that tiny carb.......

 

[Spike60]

How about this old JD/Echo model 60V? This might be the champ in the "heavy for its displacement" contest. Not meant as a dig from a Husky guy. After all, we're going back to the bicentennial with this saw. And it's further hampered by sharing a chassis with 70cc or larger models. Build quality is impressive, as in like a bridge abutment. Cool exhaust note and a nice piece of saw history.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Spike, hello from Interior Alaska. Nice ole vintage thumper! Nothing brings husq & stihl guys together, like an echo chainsaw. Always fun to adventure out of the "brand bubble".

Question: would you happen to know of a heavy-duty clutch cover for my jonsered 2172? I've cracked 2 of the dmn things. Clutch covers as thin and frail as an eggshell. It's been banished to the lewis winch:

 

[Gullet]

Take those damn saws INSIDE DANGIT!
Your KILLING ME! Lol

 

[Spike60]

Hello up there in Alaska. Those frosty saws sure don't look they're in Florida. Do they need some extra coaxing to start in that weather?

The west coast cover from the 2188 is a little wider, but may not be much stronger. 572 covers fit also. Can always throw the huztl 372 covers on there. They're so cheap you can't get too upset if they break. Any of the red covers are gonna be pricy. Seems like 50% more than the equivalent orange part in most cases.

You're right about the other brand thing. Not much to argue about.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Bummer, no heavy duty clutch cover. Remember the jonsereds 80 clutch cover? The sight line set over .3" proud of the surface. Doubled as protection. The extra beef of the exterior bar-nut area extended back to reinforce the entire clutch cover. A true brick sht house of a saw.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Yep, lots of bizarre rituals for not only getting them started in constant below-zero, but running them too.

Smaller carbs are purdy sweet for cold weather starting: husq 266 se, echo cs 6700, echo cs 4910, echo cs 8000 etc.

Flywheel bibs for colder than 20 below.

2 stroke oils with 50 below zero cold pour points. Crank residual that turns to gum is hard on rotator cuffs and starter recoils.

Bar oiled thinned with diesel or ATF.

Starting against a chain break ain't happening.

The density below-zero air is a btch on first start-up. All saws die immediately, if u shut off the choke on high idle. So yah gotta intermittently pull the choke in and out a half dozen times, before you shut off the choke and go to low idle. Hard to do with stihl "one lever for everything"

For stihls: max flow filter kits ain't happening. You loose winter setting.

Some saws need extra carb heat off the engine cover. I do this with pcv hoses off the cylinder cover, routed straight to carb cover.

My 2172 doesnt need extra heat, heated carb.

Porting for too high of rpms,they run like sht in the below zero. Moving too much air. I keep exauhst port lower too.

Port work: Keeping upper transfers lower, and moving the torque lower is better. 30 below frozen birch, high chain speed just skips and chatters, no matter the raker depth. Lots of moisture, and small growth rings.

Oregon versacut 72dpx and EXL seems to be good cold weather chain. Less broken teeth over some of my older stuff. Their marketing statement about OCS-1 steel is somewhat true:

"All Oregon professional and harvester saw chains are now made from the company's own patented OCS-01 steel alloy. Designed to be more durable in cold weather conditions, Oregon cutting saw chain steel is tested and proven to be 125% tougher at minus 20° Fahrenheit "

http://apps.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/fb/Patented_Steel.htm

 

[Gullet]

Spike, hello from Interior Alaska. Nice ole vintage thumper! Nothing brings husq & stihl guys together, like an echo chainsaw. Always fun to adventure out of the "brand bubble".

Question: would you happen to know of a heavy-duty clutch cover for my jonsered 2172? I've cracked 2 of the dmn things. Clutch covers as thin and frail as an eggshell. It's been banished to the lewis winch:

I'm calling the Alaska Chainsaw Conservation Agency on Monday.
Filing a "Cruelty to Chainsaws" complaint.
No worries, its prolly just a ticket & fine.