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mainer_in_ak

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Dayum! Broke a 620pw. Brake system jammed with ice. Wiggled the brake handle and it snapped at that plastic toggle.

Now to the cs 530, outboard clutch is staying clean and the metal brake-toggle shouldn't be a problem. Saw, chip, saw chip, saw chip. Should be done by midnight.

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Stevemb

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Today's chainsaw adventure:

Overflow filled my side-channel where I park my river boat. The river level came up over 3 ft in the dead of winter, because of a warm-spell. What was once dry land where my boat was 10 ft away from the ice, is now 3ft of solid ice. It even poured into the treeline.

The fkn drain plug was pulled. The boat filled with water, and froze into the overflow. Not only is the boat frozen into a ft of overflow, it's filled with at least 800 lbs of ice.

I'm undecided what to do:

Build a tarp-tent around the thing, and thaw it out with a wood stove and chip away soft ice?

Or echo chainsaw that fker till she's clear of ice? Im worried that as I cut on the inside and outside of boat I may accidentally cut the hull.

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Damn what a predicament . Sawing sounds way better than chipping.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Steve, a weird deal and first time. Figured out a technique that seems to work. Cut 1 ft from boat at 30-35 degrees. Hack at the ice and it cracks into large shavings because of the relief cut. Sweep out shavings repeat.

Inside of boat: careful score marks with tip of saw, only going 2-3 inches at a time. Light/careful strikes with hatchet. The cubes break away without harming the hull.

Only about 50% cleared of ice, and arms turned to rubber, ha!

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mainer_in_ak

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Ferg, yep once clear of ice, will try to chainsaw winch it further up the bank. I have an old heated carb jonsered 2172 locked in a lewis winch.
 

FergusonTO35

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Sawing and hacking through ice in winter sounds like the kind of thing I do when I feel the need for self-flagellation due to bad life decisions.
 

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Wow is the cs4910 ever plugged up. The exhaust cap has four tiny tabs bent into it to exhaust thru. I took restriction tube and screen out and cut a very small slot into cap and saw really came to life. Opened low screw three quarters turn and hi a half turn. Thing is exhaust is still too small by a lot.
 

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Steve, a weird deal and first time. Figured out a technique that seems to work. Cut 1 ft from boat at 30-35 degrees. Hack at the ice and it cracks into large shavings because of the relief cut. Sweep out shavings repeat.

Inside of boat: careful score marks with tip of saw, only going 2-3 inches at a time. Light/careful strikes with hatchet. The cubes break away without harming the hull.

Only about 50% cleared of ice, and arms turned to rubber, ha!

20230115-130734.jpg

20230115-133041.jpg
I'd focus on getting to the drain plug hole, defrost it, plug it, then build a tent and defrost the boat from the inside in a safe way.
 

Ford3000

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Echo CS680.jpg See an Echo CS680 for sale, are they any good, are they too old that
parts are going to be an issue.
They are looking 400.00 euro, seems high for a saw that probably
cost not a lot more when it was bought new, it has done work too
because its original bar is gone.
Is it a 680 at all, no black air cover, looks like a plastic fuel tank,
I thought all these were alloy.
Echo CS680-2.jpg
 
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FergusonTO35

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Those were only discontinued a few years ago here and parts are very easy to find. I would make them an offer on it, I'm sure that a new CS-7310 would be like twice as much.
 

Ford3000

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Those were only discontinued a few years ago here and parts are very easy to find. I would make them an offer on it, I'm sure that a new CS-7310 would be like twice as much.
Not sure it is a 680, looks slightly different than others online do.
 

Thesandman

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After the mm on the cs4910 the tac shows it four stroking hard at 13,5 and in the cut at 9,5 with 16inches of bar in noodle cut. This is at 40degrees. This must be the best saw for the money by far. I'm including the 590@$400 and the 4910@$325 otd
 

mainer_in_ak

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Ford300,
Did you make an offer on the cs 680? I would think 300-325 euros would be fair. The 6700,670, 680, 8000 800p are a fun "cheap saw" to port. Some folks are into chinese clone saws, but these older echos are just as cheap.

Ported, my cs 8000's run right with my stihl 660 mag

My lowly echo 6700 ported, runs right with a stihl 044 or my jonsered 2172.

Nothing nothing special, just a cheapo base gasket delete, woods port, advance ignition, and open up muffler.
 

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Buddy has a CS 680 I've ran & really like it, great saw.
But I have ran a Shindaiwa 680 in the past (father of the Echo 680) & it was a hot rod compared to the Echo! Lol
Both excellent saws.
 

mainer_in_ak

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Gullet, I have never seen on of those! I'd like to run one.

Question for the echo guys:

Has anyone ever encountered a factory original older orange cs or qv 6700 where it was assembled with no base gasket?

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Gullet

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Gullet, I have never seen on of those! I'd like to run one.

Question for the echo guys:

Has anyone ever encountered a factory original older orange cs or qv 6700 where it was assembled with no base gasket?

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Not mine (I wish).
If you do run across one the seller thinks it's worth its weight in gold!
Great saws tho with some ballz & built for performance (unlimited coil).
I have no idea what had been done to the one I ran, but I had a big grin on my face when I ran it.
:D
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Ford3000

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Those were only discontinued a few years ago here and parts are very easy to find. I would make them an offer on it, I'm sure that a new CS-7310 would be like twice as much.
From what I seen online, a CS621 will out cut the 680 every time as they seem to rev higher,
the only good thing is the round filter which is better, its not the same filter that fits the new 7310,
as its lower in profile, some guy mentioned he was going to try and put the filter from a 680 onto a 620 for that reason.
I might make an offer on Monday when they open again, its a heavy saw with low power, I understand it
has torque, but the majority of wood I want to cut would be better with speed over torque, not big wood.
CS550.jpg
 
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Gullet

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From what I seen online, a CS621 will out cut the 680 every time as they seem to rev higher,
the only good thing is the round filter which is better, its not the same filter that fits the new 7310,
as its lower in profile, some guy mentioned he was going to try and put the filter from a 680 onto a 620 for that reason.
I might make an offer on Monday when they open again, its a heavy saw with low power, I understand it
has torque, but the majority of wood I want to cut would be better with speed over torque, not big wood.
They arent that heavy compared to other 66/67cc saws.
I'm not sure why people think that, but they are not heavy for their displacement.
I have 3 Shindaiwa 695's.
A little beefier than the 680, but the 695 comes in around 13.2 pounds (pho).
That's not heavy for a 68cc saw!
In fact its light!
Bulkiness of my Shindaiwa 695 (68cc) & Husky 272xp (72cc).
The Shinny weighs .5 pounds less, not to mention its slimmer, more nimble & to be honest you cant tell the difference in performance until u move to 24" or longer bar (then the 272 shows why it's a legend).
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