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Echo cs 590,600,620 porting/mod/build thread

Red97

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Talked with my dealer here and it looks like
Around $100 for the handle. The 620 coil near $80 and a new piston and cylinder is around $170.
From the looks of things I might just go to a 620 p/c, coil and handle. As far as the carb it looks like the 620 carb is the best bet with some mods. @Red97 have you found the best set up yet or is there another carb that’s worth trying?

Just buy a new 620.. Lol

If you already have the 590, just advance the timing and have the 590 cylinder ported. Not much difference in the carb to warrant the cost.
 

Agent Smith

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Bringing this back......
I’ve got a 590 on the way that needs some assistance so might as well tinker with it while it’s apart.

Anyone have updates on how their saws turned out?!

I’m curious to know if a 620pw wrap handle will fit a 590?
Here's my 590 i built after going through all the good info on this thread and on this forum. I did my numbers in the jug a little different and cut the squish band different. I have fun running this saw! Thanks to all that share info and have helped guys like me learn this stuff.

 

J. Dirt

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Just buy a new 620.. Lol

If you already have the 590, just advance the timing and have the 590 cylinder ported. Not much difference in the carb to warrant the cost.
I’d love a 620! Might just have to!
The 590 I’ve got needs a p/c anyhow so I figured it might be a good time to slap on something different.
 

J. Dirt

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Here's my 590 i built after going through all the good info on this thread and on this forum. I did my numbers in the jug a little different and cut the squish band different. I have fun running this saw! Thanks to all that share info and have helped guys like me learn this stuff.

Nice job she sounds awesome! That’s what I’m looking to do with this one!
 

Red97

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I’d love a 620! Might just have to!
The 590 I’ve got needs a p/c anyhow so I figured it might be a good time to slap on something different.

Can you post a pic of the cylinder? I've had some really nasty 590 cylinders clean up.

If you are set on buying new, the 620 would be a good choice. But if you just plan on "playing" with the saw maybe a clean and a golf piston could be fun too...
 

J. Dirt

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Can you post a pic of the cylinder? I've had some really nasty 590 cylinders clean up.

If you are set on buying new, the 620 would be a good choice. But if you just plan on "playing" with the saw maybe a clean and a golf piston could be fun too...
Exhaust side.
DD62B113-0B62-4E54-99A1-F75DF75B5F1B.jpeg
Intake side256BE23A-1EBE-47D2-8C95-2E961762855E.jpeg
Exhaust side is the only spot scored. I sanded it already with some 320 and it cleaned up most of it.EC71550C-21D0-4651-A562-8DC8BAFC8920.jpeg
Trouble is that spot right below the port. The scuff is through into the aluminum, it’s not transfer that’s for sure.BFA54B80-C51B-4D50-8078-842563B2C159.jpeg
 

Red97

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Exhaust side.
View attachment 221765
Intake sideView attachment 221766
Exhaust side is the only spot scored. I sanded it already with some 320 and it cleaned up most of it.View attachment 221767
Trouble is that spot right below the port. The scuff is through into the aluminum, it’s not transfer that’s for sure.View attachment 221768

I'd hit it a little more, make sure it is a Low spot and run it..

Likely to be into the saw plenty of times adjusting ports etc. As long as it is a low spot it will likely live a long life with a good tune.
 

J. Dirt

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Awesome I’ll keep polishing and see how it “buffs” out. Haha I’m thinking on keeping an eye out for a 620pw if one pops up. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks for the info today and for the whole thread!
 

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Hillbilly01

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Hi all, my name is andrew and I'm new to the forum and to chainsaw ownership. I'm late to the party but I bought a brand new 590 about a month ago to cut down about a dozen trees on my property, did this in completely stock form, even the lean tuning from the factory. I did make my mix slightly rich for the first 2.5 gallons I put through it though. This is the first saw ive ever owned and as with any of my other toys (motorcycles,cars,etc) I cant leave well enough alone so I have come looking for more power. So far I have cut out the deflector on top of the muffler and ditched the spark arrestor. In addition to this I used a leftover, but still good, 10mm end mill from work to open the 3 holes on each side of the tube, on the plate inside the muffler into one long oval opening. Then I worked on tuning it. Still not quite where i'd like it to be as I think it may be just a hair fat on the high side but I'm nervous about running lean, this is the first thing with a carb I have ever tuned myself without any help. My next step, and this is where my questions arise, is to bump up the compression. I have read just about every page of this thread and see where guys have used thinner gaskets and shaved some off the bottom of the cylinder. Question 1, are you guys buying these thinner gaskets from somewhere already made, buying thinner material and cutting your own, or just flat out throwing some liquid gasket in there and smooshing it back together (I doubt its that last one but I could be wrong)? Question number two is, what is a safe amount to take off the bottom of the cylinder head before running in to clearance issues? Im not looking to push it to the absolute limit so that there's only .0002" between running great and catastrophe. I plan on using one of the cnc 5-axis mills at work to take it off with and a ziess cmm machine to measure it, so I should be able to be fairly accurate. ;) haha. Thanks in advance to all who reply!
 

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Yes I did. Pulled them out with a 90 degree dental pick and sanded them off. Sorry I forgot to mention that in my first post!
 

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As far as bumping the compression, you need to measure the squish to figure out where it is factory. 590's iirc are around .040+ so you might be able to get rid of the base gasket and reinstall the cylinder with some 1184 or equivalent. Some will run no base gasket and some like to keep a base gasket so they machine the cylinder base to set desired squish and still run a gasket. I personally like to use a base gasket in my builds. For a 590 shoot for .020 squish
 

Red97

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Much more than .040 off without a base gasket and you start to free port.

Get the squish measurement, normally can take a bit more off the base (.010~)to set a .020 squish.
 

Hillbilly01

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I too would feel more comfortable running a base gasket I think. Ok now I have read a lot about squish in this thread,I have no clue what that is. Just in reading, my assumption is that this is the clearance amount between the edge of the piston and the top of the cylinder where they would contact first is they were to hit. Is this correct? If so, how do you gentleman go about measuring this? Please excuse my ignorance but I bought this saw not only for the work I needed to do with it but also as a way to learn about all this stuff and eventually porting and the whole 9 yards.
 
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